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New here. 2755 Bayliner with a few questions-gctid365371

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    New here. 2755 Bayliner with a few questions-gctid365371

    Hello everyone, my name is AriI'm new here and this is my first post.I just purchased a 2755 '90 bayliner with a 454 / 7.4L mercruiser which is also my very first boat.I'm happy with the 'looks' of the boat but so far I have not been able to run it as it's still on bricks at the local marina, winterized by the mechanics and need them to come out and de-winterize everything since doing it myself avoids the 'warranty' if they find a crack in the block.On Monday I got the full canvas all fixed/stitched up and ready to put on.This Saturday I plan on removing the shrink-wrap, sand/paint the bottom and start fixing the 'little bits'.____________________________________________ A few things that I MUST get done and have questions on,The prop is a piece of junk and can't read any numbers of it. Removed it and took it to the local shop and the guy argued with me that the prop I had is for a bravo 2. I'm no expert but I thought this boat with 454 had a bravo one and was told the same thing from the previous owner.-to clarify Is it a bravo one or bravo two? (I'm such a noob)-Anyone with the 454 on this boat, what prop are you running? What would you guys suggest if I go with an alum prop?- Bilge pump located in under/front of motor - was told doesn't work as someone hit the switches on the dash on accident and let the bilge run for a whole day. I also don't think it has a floating switch but will double check once the full canvas is up this weekend- it's too dark with the shrink wrap on.What bilge size should I go for to replace this one? Is there another bilge pump in this boat? If so where are they? I can't put the boat in the water if I don't get at least the motor bilge pump replaced.-The bow rail was removed and was wondering if the normal white silicone is good enough to cover the holes for the time being until i find a bow rail or if there are any type of covers.Also, it appears the previous owner had done some work to the interior of the boat. He put new wood on the bathroom door and throughout. Also made a table with the same kind of wood and saved the old one (as seen in the picture). This boat doesn't have the stove or fridge. Was told the boat came with a cooler(which was optional) and the stove was removed during the interior upgrade and was never put back on since it was never being used and avoid fire. Maybe was just a lie but that is not a concern to me as long as everything else runs and drives fine.Any other things I should look out for is appreciated.Thanks, Ari

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/668415=25825-2012-03-17 18.56.14.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/668415=25830-2012-03-18 18.05.18.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/668415=25827-2012-03-19 12.22.50.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/668415=25828-2012-03-19 15.00.59.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/668415=25829-2012-03-23 13.15.01.jpg[/img]

    #2
    Welcome aboard.

    I can't answer all of your questions as i haven't had mine on the water yet with it running right, but I will answer what I can.

    I also have the 7.4L and have a stainless 4 blade 14x16 if I remember right, but I haven't got mine up on plane yet as I was having major carb/fuel delivery issues last fall, but think I have it all ready for this spring, so I don't know if that is a good prop or not.

    I do have the Bravo one, and I believe that is likely what you have as well.

    Bilge pumps, mine has two but only one float. The rear pump is right under the front engine pulley and the float is just behind it. There should be a second pump under the step in the cabin. both pumps are hooked together and both should come on with the switch or the float. My float isn't working on mine yet, but it's on my list of fixes. Mine also has an odd wiring issue with it, but figure I will mess with that later.

    I'm not sure what all options was available on your year, mine has the stove, refer, etc in it and I haven't heard of any options with a cooler only, but maybe there was.

    I'm still hunting all of the issues on mine, but my biggest one by far was a leaking fuel tank. This is no cheap issue, so you might want to verify yours is good. I did come up with a semi inexpensive fix for it, but I have yet to be on the water to prove it's effectiveness.

    Good luck and post any issues you find.

    Comment


      #3
      kleake wrote:
      Welcome aboard.

      I can't answer all of your questions as i haven't had mine on the water yet with it running right, but I will answer what I can.

      I also have the 7.4L and have a stainless 4 blade 14x16 if I remember right, but I haven't got mine up on plane yet as I was having major carb/fuel delivery issues last fall, but think I have it all ready for this spring, so I don't know if that is a good prop or not.

      I do have the Bravo one, and I believe that is likely what you have as well.

      Bilge pumps, mine has two but only one float. The rear pump is right under the front engine pulley and the float is just behind it. There should be a second pump under the step in the cabin. both pumps are hooked together and both should come on with the switch or the float. My float isn't working on mine yet, but it's on my list of fixes. Mine also has an odd wiring issue with it, but figure I will mess with that later.

      I'm not sure what all options was available on your year, mine has the stove, refer, etc in it and I haven't heard of any options with a cooler only, but maybe there was.

      I'm still hunting all of the issues on mine, but my biggest one by far was a leaking fuel tank. This is no cheap issue, so you might want to verify yours is good. I did come up with a semi inexpensive fix for it, but I have yet to be on the water to prove it's effectiveness.

      Good luck and post any issues you find.
      Hello Kleake,

      Thank you very much for the quick reply.

      I am looking at some paper work from the previous owner and I have a receipt of what appears to be a rebuild of the outdrive with gaskets and bellows etc last summer...on top it says service on bravo 2. This is just getting funnier. I have to get a prop and don't know what drive it have. Do you have a pic of the back of your boat/outdrive handy by any chance?

      Also what size bilge pump would you suggest for the 2755? I found a deal online for a Rule 850gph + Rule floating switch + Rule 500gph for $75 but don't know if that's enough.

      Thanks in advance.

      Comment


        #4
        Here is a picture of my drive and transom. It's pretty corroded as you can see, but I am in the process of getting it all cleaned up.

        [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/669011=25861-0576.jpg[/img]You can go here and look at the pictures and serial numbers to identify exactly what you have, but here is a bravo one, and bravo two. Easiest way to tell the difference is look at the shape of the trailing edge of the lower unit right in front of the prop. Bravo one has a V shape where the prop sets, Bravo two is flat.

        [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/669011=25862-bravo1.jpg[/img] ,

        [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/669011=25863-bravoii.jpg[/img]As for the bilge pump, I am not for sure what mine are as I can barely see the rear one. My general rule of thumb it go with as big as you practically can. I will try and look at mine tonight and see if I can get a better visual.

        Comment


          #5
          Welcome to the wonderful world of boating.

          There should be numbers on the hub of the prop to determine what it is. If you contact Bayliner with your HIN they can help (provided a swap was not done).

          As far as the holes on the deck, I would use 3M 4200. It is made for marine applications, the stuff you get at Home Depot will not last.

          Many people remove the stove as they do not use it and it takes up counter space.

          850GPH pump is not bad. The larger the better. Check to see if there are seperate switches for the aft and mid bilge pumps. Personally I would rather have them on seperate switches. The mid pump should be located under the steps leading to the cabin. If not there check under the bed in the cave.

          I would be very surprised if the boat was not equipped with a AC/DC frig from the factory. They are expensive to replace so that may be why it was removed during the remod.
          Phil, Vicky, Ashleigh & Sydney
          1998 3055 Ciera
          (yes, a 1998)
          Previous boat: 1993 3055
          Dream boat: 70' Azimut or Astondoa 72
          Sea Doo XP
          Sea Doo GTI SE
          Life is short. Boats are cool.
          The family that plays together stays together.
          Vice Commodore: Bellevue Yacht Club

          Comment


            #6
            Hi Ari and welcome to boating and BOC. You have come to the right place to get some excellent advice. As this is your first boat and a little older, I would strongly recommend you engage someone who knows boats well. A reputable surveyor will provide you a written report on details you should be aware of. I might have suggested you do that prior to purchase, but it still isn't a bad idea now, while it is still on the hard. Boating is most enjoyable when it occurs problem free. If you have family and friends with whom you want to share the experience, you'll want to ensure to the extent possible that those first few outings are not full of problems, which leads to worries of personal safety, and will eventually turn folks off. This applies to your own competency. That's a good size boat to learn boating on and if you are not properly prepared, including familiarity with good seamanship skills, you are headed for problems. Seek out good courses. I won't comment on the outdrive, outside of saying that if this dealer can't provide advice on the outdrive and prop, find another dealer to get future service done. The railing is a safety issue. There are numerous places on-line (and probably locally) where you can purchase replacement parts reasonably. Further, they will be a legal requirement. Take your time here Ari. Boating is best enjoyed at a slower pace anyway. Consider that this season maybe the year you spend lots of time on the hook, or at the marina.
            Mike & Dixi
            2006 265 5.0 MPI B3
            Closed Cooling

            Comment


              #7
              I just looked in mine. Under the step is a Rule 500gph with a float switch. Under the engine I can see the float, but I can only see the edge of the pump so I don't know what it is, but it is bigger. I would guess a 1000gph, but I'm not definite. They both work from the single dash switch, i'm not sure if the float turns on only one at a time, but I would bet it's both. My floats aren't working due to a weird wiring setup, but I haven't had time to sort it out yet.

              Comment


                #8
                Great questions and your in the right place, but I hope you got a great price and/or warranty buying a boat that needs some work, and with out a sea trial, survey, etc....

                Gutsy move Mav!

                I replace my POS alchohol stove with a propane stove, and got an adapter to hook the little disposable bottles to it rather than the big tank, mainly for safety and space ventaliation requirements of a big tank. I agree, I would be surprised if it did not come with an AC/DC fridge. A cooler would not be an "option", and it that is what it came with, the AC/DC fridge would be the option if not standard.

                Comment


                  #9
                  kleake wrote:
                  Here is a picture of my drive and transom. It's pretty corroded as you can see, but I am in the process of getting it all cleaned up.

                  You can go http://"http://www.mercstuff.com/dri...e: <br /> here and look at the pictures and serial numbers to identify exactly what you have, but here is a bravo one, and bravo two. Easiest way to tell the difference is look at the shape of the trailing edge of the lower unit right in front of the prop. Bravo one has a V shape where the prop sets, Bravo two is flat.

                  As for the bilge pump, I am not for sure what mine are as I can barely see the rear one. My general rule of thumb it go with as big as you practically can. I will try and look at mine tonight and see if I can get a better visual.
                  Kleake, look what I found.

                  Seems like I do have a bravo 2 indeed and the service receipt as well as the guy at the prop shop were right telling me I had a bravo 2 prop...the only ignorant people in this mess looks like is the previous owner and me.

                  I also found where the other bilge pimp is- as you guys said right under the last step when going into the cabin. It's an orange rule 500 gph with a float switch that seems to have some type of sphere/ball inside when moving the arm(not sure if you can see much from the pic) but I had water right under the pump which makes me wonder if 2 inch of water in the middle of the cabin is normal.

                  I removed the bilge pump at the motor, was a rule 1100 GPH aka Rule-Mate RM1100 (not version A) with an auto floater built in. I took it home, cleaned and tested with no luck..that thing is just dead. I'm thinking to replace both pumps with a tsunami 1200GPH with external floaters(anyone can pitch in on this brand, I don't mind spending a bit more for better quality). Do you think this is on the safe side for the first lunch?

                  Now I'm looking for a prop. As some on here suggested, I called my local bayliner dealer and they gave me two prop sizes(not far from each other)...but that was assuming I had a bravo one since these boat came with a bravo one...Now that I found out i have a 2, do I get to stay in the same prop range size & pitch or will it be way off?

                  Worse to worse, I'm thinking to get the beat up prop I have measured and base my next prop purchase on the same measurements.

                  Attached files http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg&#91;/img] http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg&#91;/img] http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg&#91;/img]

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for the feedback thus far.

                    Sorry I can't reply individually I'm at work taking all the feedback in though, and as I keep reading and keeping my head-up ...I just hope when i put this boat in the water .....it wont sink :kidding

                    Comment


                      #11
                      dpoelstra wrote:
                      Great questions and your in the right place, but I hope you got a great price and/or warranty buying a boat that needs some work, and with out a sea trial, survey, etc....

                      Gutsy move Mav!

                      I replace my POS alchohol stove with a propane stove, and got an adapter to hook the little disposable bottles to it rather than the big tank, mainly for safety and space ventaliation requirements of a big tank. I agree, I would be surprised if it did not come with an AC/DC fridge. A cooler would not be an "option", and it that is what it came with, the AC/DC fridge would be the option if not standard.
                      I think I had worded/ typed it wrongly. I was told that the boat came with a cooler when new and to get get the fridge it was an option where one had to pay more to get the fridge...I can't confirm this, but I do know I am missing a fridge and had only a cooler with wheels on it

                      Would be nice to have a 12v/120v fridge though, maybe will get one if everything goes as planned.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thats good that you was able to determine what drive you have on your boat. I am surprised it is a Bravo 2, but i've seen alot of things that surprise me.

                        I also have a little bit of water down there, but I had a fuel tank leak (pretty major) and flushed as much as I could with water, but haven't been able to get the last drop out. I do plan to use my shop vac for the last little bit. I did find if you remove the pump from that mount and rest it right down in the bottom you can get a few more gallons out of there. I would think that size bilge pump should be fine. I would say it could be over kill, but when talking bilge pumps, you can never be too cautious. Technically if all things are good, you should not take on any water at all. Check your bellows, all 3, and make sure your sea cock for the head is closed, and those should be the only places water can get in. If your bellows are sealing good and don't have any cracks in them, and the sea cock is closed, you should be fine. For the first few minutes, dont unhook your bowstrap from the trailer and inspect things. If all is good unhook and stay near the dock until you know all is good. Don't get in a hurry to take off out in the middle of the lake until you know you can trust everything.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          kleake wrote:
                          I just looked in mine. Under the step is a Rule 500gph with a float switch. Under the engine I can see the float, but I can only see the edge of the pump so I don't know what it is, but it is bigger. I would guess a 1000gph, but I'm not definite. They both work from the single dash switch, i'm not sure if the float turns on only one at a time, but I would bet it's both. My floats aren't working due to a weird wiring setup, but I haven't had time to sort it out yet.
                          speaking from experience.....put another bilge pump in the fwd end of the boat....make it at least a 1500gph pump...I'd run it on a float sw. and a fuse linked directly to the batt.s.....

                          :arr arr

                          Comment


                            #14
                            seapuppy wrote:
                            speaking from experience.....put another bilge pump in the fwd end of the boat....make it at least a 1500gph pump...I'd run it on a float sw. and a fuse linked directly to the batt.s.....

                            :arr arr
                            Sounds like a good plan,,, but you have now peaked my interest in the story when you said "speaking from experience"

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Ari,

                              Welcome to the club.

                              The 2755 is a great boat and has a great ride. You will enjoy her.

                              We also have a 2755 and have done many cabin mods.

                              I would replace all bilge pumps. You want to know these will work when needed but hopefully never.

                              The 2755 had two float switches, one under the engine and on under the cabin step with the pumps not far away. There is only one bilge switch on the helm and it turns on both pumps. On our boat water in for forward bilge doesn't drain to the stern.

                              As seapuppy states, go as big as you can and power these directly from you battery bank.

                              If you plan to spend weekends on the water, add an extra battery to your house bank. Keep you starting battery for emergency.

                              The 2755 battery switch is in the engine bay, you may want to consider moving it.

                              Typical prop for a bravo II is 18.25 x 19P, but that is on a much heavier boat. IMO at 14" prop for that engine is way to small.

                              That's a lot of motor for that size of boat, so you'll enjoy the power.

                              Comment

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