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reseal AQ280 drive-gctid363194

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    reseal AQ280 drive-gctid363194

    Just so it wont be to bad of a shock what would i expect to pay for a complete reseal on this drive ( ball park )

    Thanks Dan

    #2
    Dan, I'll give you a ball park, but first how mechanically inclined are you?
    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Comment


      #3
      honestly Rick i am very mechanicly inclined was a M/V mechanic many years ago,But Rick i dont have the ambition or desire to do this its not that i am rich i would prefer to farm it out, Had this drive resealed 9 years ago but had some water intrusion havent pressure tested it yet ( i can do this ) so am just getting ready for the inevitable.

      Thanks as always Rick

      Comment


        #4
        Dan, I will say that you'll find many shops who don't want the AQ series drive work. If they take the job, they'll usually charge about 200% of what the job is actually worth. In the states, it may be around $1,200 or so.

        If you can remove the transmission and lower unit bearing carrier, these can be shipped to me for this work, if that even interests you.

        My charges are no where near what some of these large shops are asking.

        Shoot me a BOC email (not a PM) and we can discuss it if you care to.
        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks Rick, I am hopeing it is an o ring either at the dipstick. hollow bolt. or drain plug, as i have had these out several times and never replaced, ( and yes i should no better ) these should be changed everytime. I will drain the oil and pressure test, Do you think i should be doing a vacum test also,Rick while i have your attention it is getting difficult to find a really good grade of S.A.E.30 oil, What do you think of a good grade 10w 30 oil in place of sae30 for the drive ?? When i find the results of the pressure/vacum test?? i will get back to you about the reseal,Not sure if it would be cost effective with shipping but would really love to have you do this work.

          Thanks Dan

          Comment


            #6
            finalfling wrote:
            Thanks Rick, I am hopeing it is an o ring either at the dipstick. hollow bolt. or drain plug, as i have had these out several times and never replaced, ( and yes i should no better ) these should be changed everytime. I will drain the oil and pressure test, Do you think i should be doing a vacum test also,Rick while i have your attention it is getting difficult to find a really good grade of S.A.E.30 oil, What do you think of a good grade 10w 30 oil in place of sae30 for the drive ?? When i find the results of the pressure/vacum test?? i will get back to you about the reseal,Not sure if it would be cost effective with shipping but would really love to have you do this work.

            Thanks Dan
            Points of common failure:

            Shift mechanism eccentric piston seal. If not green in color, it's an older one.

            Red fanolic fill plug gasket.

            Hollow bolt O-ring... not so much nor so often, unless removed and not replaced with new.

            Drain plug and dip stick O-rings.... must be new each time removed.

            Prop shaft seals.

            Once in a while we'll see the lower unit/intermediate O-rings fail... not often.

            I tore into a 280 just three days ago. Oil was milky. I found gaskets at both drain plug and dip stick...... not O-rings. rod

            Also the eccentric piston seal was black and was wet inside.

            Black was a first generation single lip seal, brown the next generation (also single lip), and green is current double lip.

            You'll now see some newer double lip brown again.

            If yours is black or brown, it's likely an old one and needs to be replaced by now.

            You should be able to find a straight 30W non-detergent oil.

            When/if you pressure test, do this before you remove the drive.

            This is a leak-down test, so be sure to give it some time.

            Rotate the eccentric piston and prop shaft while under pressure.

            Now when you remove the drive, remove only the transmission and lower unit.... UNLESS you will be doing Intermediate housing work, and/or Reverse Latch and pivot tube work.

            Even if.... I'll still suggest removing the transmission separately, and re-installing last.

            Shipping is often cost effective if you're looking at rediculous local prices.

            The flat rate box is only $15 if you could find a way to use USPS.

            Email me if you want to talk further.

            .
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks Rick, The shift ecentric seal appears to be brown,There is a Gasket at the drain plug not an o ring also the dipstick has been out many times without replacement, didnt appear to be to much water as the oil still retained most of its gold colour. But as you know a little is still to much another quick question can the prop shaft assembly be removed while still on the boat, A quick look at my selco manual seems to say it can with the appropriate puller.

              Thanks Dan

              P.S. Will do the pressure/leak down test on Monday if it doesnt snow and get back to you with the results

              Comment


                #8
                finalfling wrote:
                ......... another quick question can the prop shaft assembly be removed while still on the boat, A quick look at my selco manual seems to say it can with the appropriate puller.
                Yes, it sure can be. However, the book may show a slide hammer being used.

                If there's any corrosion, the slide hammer method can be difficult.

                Here's what I'd recommend, and it's pretty easy and simple to make one.

                This is being shown on a Duo Prop, but also works on the s/p lower units.

                You'll notice that there is a second set of holes as the center-to-center dimension is not the same.




                Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hi Rick, Looks like a good news story, Changed the drain plug gasket and replaced it with the proper o ring. changed the dipstick o ring and also the hollow bolt o ring, Held 14psi for 2 hours, Just sitting here having a few cold ones saying finally the boating gods are being good to me,Please dont burst my bubble with another theroy ha ha ha, Thanks for talking me through this.

                  Dan

                  Comment


                    #10
                    That is good news.

                    When under pressure, rotate the eccentric piston and prop shaft.

                    If she's going to leak down, that will help it show up.

                    Suggestions:

                    Use a hand held impact driver on the drain plug.... just several mild blows will set it much better than if with a screw driver.

                    Use a channel lock pliers on the dip stick, in spite of knurling the finish. Better a few scratches than a dip stick that was not seated.
                    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                    Comment

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