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Faster winterization/de-winterization for the 4-cylinder OHC volvo?-gctid362303

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    Faster winterization/de-winterization for the 4-cylinder OHC volvo?-gctid362303

    The PNW has been reluctant to let go of winter this year, we get some 50*+ days and then the next it freezes and snows.

    I've replaced the npt drain plugs on the manifold and raw water pipe with twist valves(proper name gets censored sorry), the factory exchanger takes care of the engine, but I still have to at least remove the impellor front cover to get the water out of it, so with ~45 minutes added to each end of a trip during the time of year when It could freeze I just don't go....meanwhile the outboard equipped boats are out bonking fish and somehow their impellor setup is self draining.

    Is there anything I could do to my raw water pump to allow it to drain without reducing it's effeciency?

    I was thinking of drilling and tapping a 1/8" npt hole in the bottom and installing another twist valve, but it would only get the water out between one or two of the impellor vanes...

    ???

    #2
    rkcarguy wrote:
    The PNW has been reluctant to let go of winter this year, we get some 50*+ days and then the next it freezes and snows.

    I've replaced the npt drain plugs on the manifold and raw water pipe with twist valves(proper name gets censored sorry), the factory exchanger takes care of the engine, but I still have to at least remove the impellor front cover to get the water out of it, so with ~45 minutes added to each end of a trip during the time of year when It could freeze I just don't go....meanwhile the outboard equipped boats are out bonking fish and somehow their impellor setup is self draining.

    Is there anything I could do to my raw water pump to allow it to drain without reducing it's effeciency?

    I was thinking of drilling and tapping a 1/8" npt hole in the bottom and installing another twist valve, but it would only get the water out between one or two of the impellor vanes...

    ???
    How about this ?

    http://"http://www.speedseal.com/spe...speedseal.html

    Comment


      #3
      I couldn't use that as my pump cover has a bronze bearing in it. I could stud the pump though and get or make some knobs or wingnuts...

      The other issue is the gasket is a cheezy foam thing only good a few uses.

      Comment


        #4
        Here is what I have.(pic)

        The pipe going up from the pump to the exchanger drains out quite a bit of water when you pull the impellor cover.

        Two of the bolts go thru the cover and pump body to secure it, the other two only screw the cover to the pump.

        Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/665328=25564-aq125pipe2.jpg[/img]

        Comment


          #5
          Steve, on the OHC Volvos, two of the pump cover screws (12:00 and 6:00 O'clock-ish) are also used to hold the pump body into the aluminum housing.

          Ryan, why not just loosen the four screws and let the cover pull forward some and drain the pump?

          Be careful with draincocks.... some don't allow for probing.
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            2850Bounty wrote:
            Steve, on the OHC Volvos, two of the pump cover screws (12:00 and 6:00 O'clock-ish) are also used to hold the pump body into the aluminum housing.

            Ryan, why not just loosen the four screws and let the cover pull forward some and drain the pump?

            Be careful with draincocks.... some don't allow for probing.
            Mainly it's just the gasket issue, maybe I can groove my cover for an o-ring and then I'd be more comfortable doing it that way.

            What I've been doing with the drains, is every once in awhile when I flush the boat after the salt I open them up and just let them flow into the bilge to keep them cleaned out. Works so far...

            Comment


              #7
              What if you cut that lower copper line and put a piece of radiator hose to join them back together?

              Loosen the hose clamps and then the water drains out to the lowest point of the water outlet opening..

              I don't think you need to get every drop of water out of the water pump. Just enough so the water has room to expand a little when it turns to ice.

              Comment


                #8
                green650 wrote:
                I don't think you need to get every drop of water out of the water pump. Just enough so the water has room to expand a little when it turns to ice.
                That's true.... freeze expansion would not necessarily harm the pump or impeller.

                The problem with not getting all of the water out, and then having a freeze....., would be with any water freezing in a hose, line or pump and stopping flow.

                Whereas if he completely drained everything, he could then fire up and go fishing.
                Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                Comment

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