is there a special prop shaft grease?-gctid359422

[cwiert]

I'm making out my list of things to buy for spring commissioning and I need some gimble bearing grease, some engine coupler spline grease, and something for the prop shaft. Do I need to buy a special grease for that, or can I use one of the aforementioned greases, or maybe a regular old multi-purpose grease? Last year I remember using some green stuff that came in a tube, but I forgot what it was and I can't find it anywhere, so I must have run out. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

John

[bhawes]

Any good waterproof grease will do the job, You're not actually lubricating for friction, just for removal. I'd advise removing the propeller(s) at least annually, cleaning the splines, and regreasing. I've read horror stories of boaters who never take them off until they need to, and then end up burning them off. They can take a wicked set when left on for a couple of years.

[Guest]

I have three grease guns, one with coupler lube, one for the gimble bearing and the grease was the Mercruiser recommended bought at a Mercruiser dealer. It will last for years so why not buy what they recommend. My third gun is just trailer wheel bearing grease from Walleyworld. Both the coupler and gimble greases are a-different color and consisistancy.

Rock

[Guest]

Having seen the friction reducing abilities of Molybdenum Disulphide enhanced oils I'd recommend a grease with that compound mixed into it for all lubrication roles. There are lots of brand names but I use the Penrite "Molygrease" as shown below.

Also, using the equivalent oil additives for the engine and even the drive gearbox delivers benefits from such lubrication, the oil additives make engines run smoother and quieter and in theory the low friction coating on all metal parts is so good that the engine could run for a time without oil pressure and sustain no damage. (not something I'd ever want to test though)

All greases inhibit corrosion, repel water and resist water washout, I'm not sure how much better the expensive 'marine' greases are or whether its just marketing hype but with regular re-application I don't think they'd be worth the extra cost.

[2850Bounty]

Just an FYI: You'll want to avoid any grease that has any conductive properties. Automotive Never-Seez, for an extreme example.

The conductivity accelerates galvanic action that may cause the prop hub and shaft splines to eventually seize up.

I just looked up Molybdenum Disulfide;

´éº Electrical Conductivity Low but variable

The oxidation behavior of molybdenum disulfide has considerable practical importance for the following reasons:

´éº oxidation of MoS2 can cause corrosion in certain cases



I'm certainly not an expert in this area, but this may be something to consider.

.

[Guest]

my prop slides about a 1/2 inch forward and aft when installed. i use a waterproof grease for this, but from this thread im now wondering if theres something wrong with this play because with this play i would never see my prop seize on. are there spacers or something that are supposed to be installed?

[2850Bounty]

Matt, with the 280 prop shaft, the long spacer/line cutter must be used.... regardless of prop hub length.

All AQ series single prop shafts net the same length exposed spline area..... the spacer dictates this.

There are two prop hub lengths.... short/long.

Spacer remains the same for either.

Sump'n aint right with yours.

Start a new thread, and post pictures.... or go to my AQ series Vault thread.... should be info there.

.

[Guest]

i was looking for a reason to go up to the marina... off to get some pictures taken. .