In-Hull Transducer - Garmin-gctid340226

[Guest]

Hi,

Wondered if anyone has installed a In-Hull Transducer on their boat?

I own a 2000 Bayliner 3055 and was going to install one. I read a lot about the installtion but wanted to hear any tricks or tips or "see pictures" on how you did yours. Especially what kind of epoxy you used, where you bought it from, cost, etc.

Sounds like placement is the biggest part not too close to the engines, not to far up because of dead-rise and not next to your existing depth finder as it might interfere.

Should I just get a thru-hull and call it a day? I hate to put a hole in the boat.

Any help will be great. This is the model I'm looking at https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=680

Thanks in advance,

Steve

[johnrupp]

Steve

I've had good luck with an Airmar P79 in hull. The nice thing about them is they are adjustable from 2% to 22% deadrise without having to use a fairing block or a build up of epoxy. You can get them with the correct connector for most brands of electronics.

I used 3M 5200 to epoxy it to the hull. Blue Heron Marine has them for $105 and they can be found on Ebay in the $50 to $125 range.

If you are planning to run both sounders at the same time you want to get ones that work on different kHz's to avoid interference

[Chief_Alen]

I would recommend 5200 also. no bubbles to throw off the readings.

[Papa_Charlie]

I installed one in our 3218. Purchased from MegaGPS.com. Performance was excellent and installation easy. They provided the epoxy for the installation as well.

For installation I did as they suggested and applied KY jelly to the end and tried several areas in the hull until I found the best reception. This way you are assured there isn't any pockets in the fiberglass or anything else that will interfere with the signal.

[hargsnz]

I've been thinking about a thru-hull transducer for my new Fish finder - mostly because I don't want to take the boat out of the water at this time of year ( Summer here ). So I did quite a bit of reasearch & decidfed against it - but here's a couple of quotes that I found which may be useful - also a suggestion on how to test the location.

"" Location is key. It's best if the transducer is reading through a section of hull that is relatively thin and that has no voids. Thicker areas are normally found around stringers and joints, such as those where the transom and hulls join the bottom. Avoid areas where there are build ups of fiberglass tape laid around structure features. Flat planes usually give the best results. Obviously, you can't know in advance whether voids in the hull laminate exist. Tapping may give a clue if the void is large, but small voids will also interfere with your reading. They can occur in the best built boats.

It's also important that there be as little turbulence under the transducer as possible. This can be caused by many different structural or other characteristics of an outer hull surface, and the effect of a particular characteristic on turbulence can vary with speed and sea state. We've found that we never really know the best location for a transducer until after we've used it under way in varying conditions''

""

[2850Bounty]

Perhaps this another area where we have some language dilution.

I as I have always understood this, we have the true "Thru Hull" transducers..... and we have the "Shoot Thru".

Then we'll see yet another term being used........ the "In Hull Puck" transducers.

At what point will we stabilize the terminology?

Oh well!

Chief Alen wrote:
I would recommend 5200 also. no bubbles to throw off the readings.

I don't think that this is being used the bed the actual transducer, Chief.

See if this makes sense to you.

To many of us this is a "Shoot Thru" where no penetration is required.



Of the "Shoot Thru" styles....., the fiberglass hull material is to be "transparent" to ultrasonic signals as to allow for the sound wave and echo travel...... agreed?

It will be transparent if there are no voids in the hull at this area.

To the best of my knowledge, sealants like silcone or 3M products are used around the perimeter of the form.... not necessarily to secure the transducer itself.

You'll want to match the transparancy of the fiberglass by using a product that is equally transparent" to ultrasonic signals ...... yes/no?

https://"http://www.boat-project.com...RV antifreeze.

I just don't see 3M5200 being the correct product.

Steve, look in your 3055 engine bay and see if there is an area formed into the hull for a true "thru hull" ducer?

If so, this may also be the best location for the "shoot thru" style since the hull buid-up hopefully paid attention to this area.

This would be a "Thru Hull" with a faring block that does require a penetration.



For what it's worth, I'd say that your 3055 is deserving of a true "thru hull" transducer.

.

[Chief_Alen]

Was just replying to his question. Mine is mounted outside the hull on the transom.

[2850Bounty]

Bayliner 3-0-5-5 wrote:
Wondered if anyone has installed a In-Hull Transducer on their boat?

Chief Alen wrote:
Was just replying to his question. Mine is mounted outside the hull on the transom.

I know, Chief... but why the "no bubbles to throw off the readings" comment if you are talking about "outside the hull on the transom" and Steve is asking about a "Shoot Thru"?

https://"http://www.baylinerownerscl...d this thread? :kidding

.

[dmcb]

To determine if an area is good (no bubbles), with the boat in the water place a baggy full of water in your location. Put the transducer firmly against the baggy. If it works there is no air bubbles in the hull.

What I do to fasten it to the hull and I have done this many times, always with success.

Make a dam to hold fiberglass resin. I had some old large dia. exhaust hose I use but a large pvc fitting would work just fine.

Glue the hose or fitting to the hull with anything that will hold for a short time. It won't be needed later and can be left or removed. Goop or something like it works well here.

Pour some fiberglass resin in your mold just covering the entire area. Doesn't have to be deep. When it hardens, mix a little more. Enough for about 1/4 inch or so to cover the bottom. While wet, squiggle your transducer in making sure there are no air bubbles.

When it hardens you can remove or leave your dam. Don't over do the hardener. You want all the air bubbles to get out. Pour slowly to avoid bubbles also.

You are now shooting straight down. The taper of the hull has been taken care of.

An added benefit is you can remove it without damage with a smack with a rubber hammer.

Don't forget to clean the hull before doing this.

Doug

[Guest]

Hi Guys,

Excellent responses and answers. BOC always amazes me.

I have a better understanding of what I'm looking to do and didn't know there were so many play on words with styles (In-Hull, Thru-Hull, Shoot Thru, etc.). The Airmar adjustabe angle one is the one I was going to use. They call it In-Hull meaning no holes penetrated, etc.

The model also reccomends RV anti-freeze to put in there 2.4 ounces.

I'll take some installtion pictures, etc. when I mount it. The boat is out of the water currently and in a heated storage unit. Will the plastic bag trick work for me to tell about air pockets etc.? Or any other suggestions while the boat is out of the water to make sure I have the right location?

Thanks,

Steve

[Guest]

I don't think you can test it with the boat out of the water.

[dmcb]

Your correct, you cannot test it out of the water.

You could do it after its in the water and be sure of no voids. And you will have the correct angle.

On many models Bayliner installs the puck just ahead of the engines but there is no sure way of knowing if there is a small void in the glass in any location while the boat is out of the water.

You could run everything and install the puck after its in the water. The biggest thing would wait for the resin to harden.

Or you could just pick your spot and install it. If you do it as I mentioned you can remove it and it will be clean.

Install it next to the existing one. If it is going to interfer it will do it in most any location. If it is not on the same frequency you can put it anywhere and run both sounders. If they are on the same frequency, you cannot no matter where you put it most likely.

Doug

[Guest]

I have the shoot-thru with my Garmin and it works great!

[Guest]

Man, all this testing is time I'd spend fishing with a good 'thru hull' transducer. Do you know how easy it is to core a hole and mount one? I did mine last year with a 1KW Airmar beast, 4" hole, all in 15 minutes. It's a piece of cake, really. And to top it off you'll get great readings. Just my experience.

PS: Drill hole when boat is out of water

[Guest]

Here are a couple pics

Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/642974=23221-IMG_0264.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/642974=23222-IMG_0645.jpg[/img]