CJR vs. Nakashima-gctid355733

[Guest]

My 2001 3788 with 330B's came with 22 x 23 4 blade CJR props. The first year up in the San Juans I slightly dinged one prop, so upon my return I purchased replacements through Olympic Boat Center. They installed the same 22 x 23 props, but they were Nakashima brand, and I had the original CJRs cleaned up and then stored them on the boat. I have probably had those props on for close to ten years and they run smooth, even though one of them has just the slightest blem on one blade. After reading all the discussions about making the rated RPM's under load I checked out our max and both sides run up to about 2,750, and both engines easily surpass 3,100 with no load. I checked our old log book from the first time out with the mechanic and I had made a notation about the boat reaching 2,800, but not exact numbers for each side. At this spring's haulout I plan on changing back to the original CJR's for two reasons. First to see if they reach a higher RPM and secondly just to make sure that the props can be pulled easily should an issue occur out on the water. Any thoughts on the variations between propellers of a given pitch between manufacturers and the quality of the props of these two manufacturers? What props do you with similar setups run? Depending on how the CJR's do, I may just keep the Nakashimas in storage for backup or have them altered to get more RPM's.

Thanks - Open Wide

[LTCret]

Bronze vs Nibral can make some difference.

When I bought my 32 the throttles were not together. After pulling the props I found one bronze and one Nibral. I purchased and installed a second nibral and the throttles lined up!!

Happy boating

[Guest]

If I remember correctly, Nakashima is Nibral, so from your response does that mean CJR is bronze? What are the performance and cost differences?

Thanks - Open Wide

[Guest]

I would make sure that the Nakashimas were pitched properly and that all they are balanced and matched. A lot of propeller shops will give them to you out of the box without double checking the pitch and if the blades match on both props. The Nakashimas are the top of the line and what should have been "Standard" on your Bayliner. If you get them off, I would bring them to Kruger and Sons in Ballard (Seattle) and make sure they are matched properly. They are the only stocking distributor of Nakashima blades and know how to set them up right. I've lived and learned through this process (including taking a prop that was freshly worked on by another well known shop directly to Krugers and was shown "first hand" how far the prop was off) - and the results were beautiful. Personally, I would leave the CJR's in storage for back-up. Also - make sure your tachometer has been checked against a good photo tach of the engines to make sure they are accurate.

[boatworkfl]

Nibral has less flex than bronze, also, there may be a difference in the blade area between the two brands.

[Guest]

I got the same advice from other sources that the Nakashimas are the better make. I was also told by a reputable prop shop in Seattle that it wouldn't make sense to them to alter perfectly good props just to add 50 rpms. I don't get any sooting on the transom and just some light gray on the gelcoat around the exhausts. I have Aetna digital tachs, so I feel comfortable with their numbers. Someone also suggested that I would get more rpms out on the engines on salt water along with a higher speed due to the density of the salt water. I have always done my testing in Lake Washington for safeties sake along with flat water.

Thanks - Open Wide