3288 Flybridge Bench Repair-gctid355145

[Guest]

Hello Fellow Bankrupts uhh boaters :arr

I started with my canvas and noted that my bench looked shabby. Pulled it off and yup Mo money.

The plywood base and back are shot. Now to rebuild before reupholstering. Crap

Thought I would use something other than plywood. Ideas and suggestions welcome. The reupholstery is going to be expensive

Thanks in advance for any help

Rick

[Uncle_Bob]

You could use Starboard, but there is no reason not to use plywood. Bayliner used plywood and some untreated spruce stringers. They rotted out. If you treat marine grade plywood and red or yellow cedar with clear wood preservative and raise everything slightly off the bridge floor it will outlast you.

[Guest]

Uncle Bob

Thank you for that. I like the idea of using wood as original. Also I agree I will do something to get the base off the deck. Upon reflection I am concerned that there may now be rot in my deck under the fiberglass. I believe that the original was attached directly to the deck. Hope I'm wrong!

Rick

[Uncle_Bob]

Yep, screwed into a blob of boat caulk.

[Guest]

I agree on using plywood and treating it. Heck look how long the original lasted. The new treated stuff will probably last longer than you own the boat. I just redid the cushions in the cockpit area and I used the treated CDX 1/2 inch for the new backer board. The old untreated boards lasted 19 years, so I am expecting this to last at least as long.

[Guest]

I used 1/2" Celtec panels and PVC boards for my bridge seating. They were about double the price of wood but are lighter and will NEVER meed to be replaced. It was a relatively easy project and looks great now.

Island Time 3888 Gloucester Point, VA

[Guest]

Uncle Bob wrote:
Yep, screwed into a blob of boat caulk.

Rick O,

When you are ready to install your seats try this approach as many of us on the forum have done.

using Dow5200 bond onto the fly-bridge deck solid oak or maple blocks of wood about 3x6x1 inches. These would be positioned under the seats along the edges of the seat supports about every 2 to 3 feet. after the 5200 sets up good, then space up the seat frame off the floor with something like 1/4 inch pieces of plexaglass or Teflon about the size of a domino. Then with additional blocks of wood not quite as large in size as the ones bonded to the floor, lag screw them into the wood blocks on the floor after allowing an overlap onto the seat frame lower edge.

This way there are no screws into the floor and the spacers allow the water to run under the seat to the drain holes towards the back and sides.

You should do a tap test to see if your fly-bridge floor has any delamination where the seat screws could have allowed water to get into the balsa wood core between the fiberglass skins.

have fun,

Chuck

[Guest]

Chuck

Exactly rhe advice I was looking for. Thanks

Here's hoping that there has been no degradation below the flybridge floor.

Rick

[Guest]

Rick O wrote:
Chuck

Exactly rhe advice I was looking for. Thanks

Here's hoping that there has been no degradation below the flybridge floor.

Rick

Rick,

If you do have any floor delam, let me know i did mine two years ago and did a lot of research on the project.

Chuck

[Guest]

Chuck

I'm a new boat owner. How do I test for potential problems?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Rick

[Guest]

I used marine plywood and painted it with 2 coats of resin

[Uncle_Bob]

5200 is a good idea if starting new, but since you already have screw holes, properly caulked screws will yield the same water tight result. You'll need to learn the sounds of a tap test with a hammer and perhaps use a moisture meter before any sealing as you do not want to seal in any moisture.

[Guest]

Uncle Bob:

Thanks for the note. Count on experience to remind me of a moisture tester!

Rick

[Guest]

[QUOTE=Rick O;659849Chuck

I'm a new boat owner. How do I test for potential problems?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Rick[/QUOTE]

Rick,

Take a hammer and start tapping all around the floor. Start towards the very front and notice the sound of the tap. It should be solid and sharp. move around the deck and listen for changes in tone. If you hear changes in the tone it would most likely be due to delamination. Delaminated ares will produce a thud/dull tone.

I have not used a moisture meter.

If you find delam and start removing core, you simply remove all the wet core then remove some of the good solid core too. This way you know you have got all the problem core out.

Chuck