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I have a 3818 with 700 series Hino's.
The fuel filter bodies are hooped but I see no identification on them so as to replace with something similar
Suggestion for replacement would be helpfull.
Not sure if you're referring to the primary off engine fuel filters, ours are 200 series Racor housings with built in priming pump using R26P filters with sight bowls.
James
1989 Bayliner 3888, 175 Hinos,
Hurth 630's Onan 8kw MDKD
Lowrance Electronics!
Boating on Georgian Bay & the North Channel
Completed the Great Loop 07/25/19
AGLCA #8340
MTOA# 7469
What do you mean by hooped? On the engine proper, there is a fuel/water separator and a separate filter. Here’s the fuel filter: https://www.marinepartssupply.com/book/18/624/
Heres the water separator: https://www.marinepartssupply.com/book/18/629/
Filters are available on the after market from Baldwin, Fram, NAPA, etc. for a lot less than the Hino brand.
My next question is, do you have other filters between the tanks and the engines? I have Racors for instance and fwiw, I run 2 micron filters in them. My thinking is by having a very fine filter at that point the on engine filters are redundant. I use the boat year round and buy my fuel from high volume marinas. Occasionally I’ve had one clog but it’s easy to change the cartridge and keep going. As a rule I change them every spring.
P/C Pete
Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993) 1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
MMSI 367770440
The filter I want to replace is similar to a 200 series Racor and is mounted on the bulkhead. The fuel is taken from the tank through that filter then on to the filter on the engine.
I like you try to get my fuel from high volume suppliers.
I am at the Birch Bay Village marina and we get together and have a tanker come directly to us and fill up from the truck.
As I mentioned easier I think the filter I am looking at may be overkill but thought better was always a good option.
The only thing I can see that is important is that the GPH is sufficient to supply enough fuel. These filters are rated at 90 GPH which is crazy more than I would draw. I like you would use a low micron filter so there really should be nothing to get to the secondary on the engine.
The filter I am referring to is the primary which is mounted on the bulkhead. It looks very much like a 200 series Racor.
The plastic viewing bowl on the bottom let go so I thought I would just replace with new as the existing is probably original.
I see some good buys on others which actually have better specs. so thought I would replace with them unless someone advised against.
Ah….not looped, pooped….
What are the other filters? I’d take a long look at cartridge replacement prices and availability. It may be a good all around buy or nearly giving away the housing and pricing the cartridge really high.
P/C Pete
Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993) 1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
MMSI 367770440
If the original filter housing is fine but the bowl needs to be replaced, I would just replace the bowl. I've installed vacuum guages on our housings and have been able to get 1000 hours on the filters using good quality fuel. Standard filter, even Ford truck filters (diesel) fit. Metal bowls are available which are recommended, I prefer the clear bowls although without heat shields probably not to code any more. The filters you are looking at are most likely chinese knock offs, not sure I'd trust the quality.
James
1989 Bayliner 3888, 175 Hinos,
Hurth 630's Onan 8kw MDKD
Lowrance Electronics!
Boating on Georgian Bay & the North Channel
Completed the Great Loop 07/25/19
AGLCA #8340
MTOA# 7469
I've used the chinese copies for years & a couple thousand engine hours - they were fine, and I suspect the Racors are significantly easier to change elements on than the originals.
- diesel boats do not require the heat shield versions - I too really like to have great visibility of the fuel bowl.
1985 Bayliner 3270
110 Hino/Hurth 360A
previous = built own Roberts V495, circumnavigated
previous = Apollo 27
previous = Folkes 39, sailed to Hawaii
+ few more before that..
While on this subject I'd like to see some opinions on filter change time frames. For instance, I just drained off my two Racors filters but did not change the cartridges because there wasn't a sign of water or dirt. I drain into a clean white bucket. Should the Racors filters be changed yearly or since the fuel was clean can I continue to use them? Should the two engine filters be changed just because, or can I continue to use them as well? I have always changed all the filters in the spring, but is it really necessary. My tanks are only 5 years old. I monitor the Racors often.
Install vacuum guages on your primaries then you'll know when to change them. Get the model with drag needles to see max restriction.
James
1989 Bayliner 3888, 175 Hinos,
Hurth 630's Onan 8kw MDKD
Lowrance Electronics!
Boating on Georgian Bay & the North Channel
Completed the Great Loop 07/25/19
AGLCA #8340
MTOA# 7469
Thank you all for your help. I have been putting up with what looks like an air leak on that engine causing starting problems. As it has been some time I am not sure but it was when the filter bowl failed and we adapted a new filter that the problem started. For $150 I think it would be worth starting all new as a base to work from
THANKS AGAIN
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