Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Westerbeke BT8-gctid341363

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Westerbeke BT8-gctid341363

    OK, non starting westerbeke diesel gen. Had problems before and got it running with a little injection of gear oil into cylinders to seal stuck rings. Ran fine after that but not heeding advise to run weekly the same situation is on again. Took compression readings, ha ha 100, 240 and 360 back to front. Put a teaspoon in the 100 cylinder and it pushed 500 pounds. Definitly not a valve problem. Anyone know what it should have for compression? Anyway try to get it going again to run for couple days to free up rings. Barring that, I am thinking of pulling the head, rolling it on it's side and pulling the pan. Thenremove pistons to get cleaned up and re ringed, hone cylinders with a hone and reassemble. Bearings are good, plenty of oil pressure. Am on a budget. Thoughts?

    #2
    tweekes,

    The following may sound crazy but it worked.

    I took a Westerbeke 8 BTDA in a 38XX that had not run in over 4 years and would not start. An old retired Navy diesel engine mechanic worked on the thing for several hours putting some oil in the cylinders through the glow plug holes and turned it over after the plugs were reinserted. After doing this a number of times it did regain some compression and sounded like it wanted to start but no luck. The guy said he thought it could be both a ring problem as well as valves and said it was probably gone and needed a rebuild. Figuring I had nothing to lose I made a few final attempts. First off, after all the attempts with oil in the cylinders enough oil had blown back to the crankcase to increase the oil to an excessive level so I drained some out to bring it back down to an acceptable level. I put a bunch of PB Blaster in each cylinder through the glow plug ports and let sit for a couple of days. Then, with the glow plugs removed I placed a towel over the top and turned it over to expel the fluid. You should have seen the crap that came out. I did this a couple more times letting it sit a day or so each time before blowing the fluid out. I didn't even try to start it. After doing this 3 times I did the same thing one last time using Marvel Mystery Oil to give the cylinders a little lube and blew it out as well. Finally, I cleaned the glow plugs real good, reinserted them, made sure the oil level was not excessive and tried a start procedure. I went through the normal start process with glow plug warm-up for 15 sec and turned it over. After a couple of seconds it coughed a little and fired up and immediately hit the governed RPM's without missing a beat. I let it run for about 10 seconds, shut it down and immediately changed the oil because after all this I knew the oil was heavily contaminated.

    After the oil change it started right up. Over the next days I loaded it to probably 120% of full load with no problems and no smoke, black or white and that was about 5 months ago. It has run fine since then with no noticeable oil consumption. Prior to lay-up it had close to 2000 hours on it and about 20 hours since I got it running again.

    Like I said, sounds crazy but I had nothing to lose and it worked. I figure it needed a strong solvent like the PB Blaster to break down the crap in the cylinders and ring grooves. Right now, it runs as good as it ever did.

    Even I find this rather amazing. Maybe I was just real lucky.

    Comment


      #3
      Hey, Thanks alot. I have tried deep creep penetrating with limited success. Will try PB Blaster.

      Comment


        #4
        Make sure you let it sit, I think that soaking had alot to do with what cleaned his out.

        Comment


          #5
          Hey guys, did the penetrating oil for three days, cranking between days and adding new. Pulled a little oil out as it was a little over anyway, checked for glow plug current, checked run stop and disconnected the return from the fuel system to be sure fuel was getting through. Didn't start, a slight interest with either but no bananna. Seems like it doesn't crank fast enough either. Got 300 pounds in my weakest cylinder, I assume 20:1 compression. Don't know what it is supposed to be however. A mysery unless it's just not turning fast enough. Seems like I would get something popping with the starting fluid? Thoughts?

          Comment


            #6
            Had a similar problem, it cranked over & sounded like the starter was rolling it over like it should. While checking it out I cleaned the battery connections, it cranked noticeably faster & fired right up. I do run mine at least once a week with about 50% load for a couple hours while i'am anchored out or even in the slip if I don't get out. Good Luck
            Capt. Ron.
            "I will not tiptoe through life to arrive safely at death"
            "Never Trade Luck For Skill"
            1987 3870 - Northern Lights ll
            Hino EH700
            Westerbeke 8.0
            1999 Logic Marine 17' CC/50 Merc.
            on Louisiana pool Mississippi River.

            Comment


              #7
              Have you checked the injectors? If not starter speed, that is where I would look, since you have adequate fuel.
              Started boating 1965
              Bayliners owned: 26 Victoria, 28 Bounty, 32, 38, and 47 since 1996

              Comment


                #8
                My 8K Westie turns over "slowly" also, and has done so ever since I have owned the boat - 10 years. If it sits for a week or more, I usually give it at least 15-20 seconds on the heater before attempting to start it and keep the heater on while cranking for 10-15 seconds. If it doesn't start, I repeat the process again. Usually starts on the second try. It seems these buggers are a bit cold natured and the starter doesn't spin like a car motor starter.
                Two C's 1990 3888 MY, 175 Hinos, Hurth 630 Trannys
                Past Commodore Emerald Rose Yacht Club
                Member International Order of the Blue Gavel
                MMSI: 338030604

                Comment


                  #9
                  I may be getting old and forgetful, but on my 8 KW Westie, I have to keep the pre heat held until the engine starts because there is a lockout without the preheat in the on position. Has to be held on until engine is fully running and up to speed. Maybe that is why it did not start with Either. I hope no one used preheat with Either or a non starting Westie would be the least of their issues.
                  Started boating 1965
                  Bayliners owned: 26 Victoria, 28 Bounty, 32, 38, and 47 since 1996

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Had a similar problem and found that the stop solenoid was malfunctioning. Replaced it and the genny hasn't missed a beat since then.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Ditto on the stop solenoid. My boat had been sitting for a couple years before I bought it in 2001. When the PO was cranking it, I noticed that the stop solenoid was not fully disengaging. I worked it back and forth a few times and sprayed some WD40 on it and the genny went vroom vroom. It hasn't malfunctoned in the past 10 years!
                      Two C's 1990 3888 MY, 175 Hinos, Hurth 630 Trannys
                      Past Commodore Emerald Rose Yacht Club
                      Member International Order of the Blue Gavel
                      MMSI: 338030604

                      Comment


                        #12
                        you can check that solonoid by just holding the plunger in while you fire the generator. If it starts, then let the plunger go. If it pulls back and the gen shuts off, then that's the culprit. Just replaced mine. Seems like it was about 160 bucks and took about 20 minutes to change, after I go the sound shield off.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Per Westerbeke shop manual, 8.0 BTDA compression ratio = 22:1. Warm compression pressure = 427 psig @ 290 rpm. Max differential between cylinders = 10% (42.7 psi).

                          Per Westerbeke shop manual, 8.0 BTD compression ratio = 23:1. Compression pressure = 455 psig @ 280 rpm. Max differential between cylinders = 35.5 psi. Overhaul at 312 psig (or less) @ 280 rpm.

                          Concur with others, PB Blaster works great, remove as much crud as you can, change oil, test/re-build injectors, clean/test glow plugs, check shut-off solenoid, check battery and cranking speed, check fuel filters, check air intake and exhaust paths are free & clear, hold warm-up switch until started and/or oil pressure is high, consider synthetic oil, and so forth. If all else fails overhaul.

                          Good luck, Doug S.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I pulled my 8KW out of the boat last weekend- runs great but we never use it. Has about 200 hours since new in 96....does anyone have an idea of what it would be worth should we decide to sell it?

                            Just wondering, thanks

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X