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4588 1990Window Seal replacement

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    #16
    Stargazerwa,
    We are waiting for a forecasted torrential downpour today here in Vancouver, Canada. That should test the one lower track under the inside aft salon window I installed yesterday. I made a hook tool from an old screwdriver and picked/pulled the old hard, crusty seal out with the window in place. Vacuumed the track out and wiped it out with soapy water to clean the mud out. I found slots cut in the bottom of the old seals at the drain locations.
    I used the https://www.dkhardware.com/96-flexib...ct-13555.htmli which I purchased from our local glass shop who brought them in from CRL in a day.
    To install, I found it was necessary to punch a hole about 2" from the end and tie a strong nylon string to it, which I ran under the window with a long straightened coat hanger wire. Then with lots of soapy water sprayed on the track and the rubber channel I was able to pull/push the channel under the window to the other end of the track. It was easier to start the channel on the glass side of the window as compared with the aluminum stiffener end. Moving the window in the direction of the pull made the track installation easier. I pulled six inches extra out the end so I could trim to fit. I found it was safer to trim too long and carefully pull it out and trim again to get a good fit. Once the channel was the right length on both ends I pulled them out again just enough to easily cut the 4" x 1/4" slots in the bottom to allow water drainage. Still need to do the top for this window, but it already slides so much better!!
    This process took me a good hour and a half by myself. It would be less difficult with two people.

    To do all the salon windows and the bridge windows, I bought 18 pieces of channel. You might get away with installing short pieces in the upper tracks, but I didn't want to experiment with that.
    After this is done, I expect I will be getting some sheet rubber and punching out new seals for the window knobs!

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      #17
      Raj_eh,

      Thank you for the procedure, that is extremely helpful. Since my original post I have been to the boat and ordered enough material from Amazon to do the bottoms. I will use your procedure, if I have a helper I plan on getting an inexpensive glads holder from Harbor Freight and lift the glass too. By bottoms are starting to disintegrate, they get the full sun and all the weight.

      Partner in a 1999 4788

      Seattle, WA

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        #18
        Much easier to take out the top first, then bottom, then install bottom with soapy water and slid window. With seal to install then top
        Mark
        USCG OUPV
        1990 4588
        Carlsbad, CA

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          #19
          NIL, Mark cut the slots!
          Jim Gandee
          1989 3888
          Hino 175's
          Fire Escape
          [email protected]
          Alamitos Bay, SoCal

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            #20
            as everyone noted, cut in slots. When I did my seals I also sealed the inside of the aluminum track with silicone to keep water from going into the boat...easy to do when rubber seals out. You do not need to remove windows, just liberally lube seals with dish soap and slide into place. Found the seals on DKHardware website at a good price. Good luck.

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              #21
              I used a little dish soap with light water but KY jelly would work! Needle nose plyer or small needle nose visegrips, slide window open, pull top track liner, lift and pull bottom track liners, Lube, lift window, insert track(full length of rail, push/pull, slide window as needed, make sure track liner seats, repeat. The uprights are a different depth(?). Now CUT SLOTS OUT FULLY NOT JUST A SLIT.

              Also clear and clean the interior fiberglass as channel as well as the exit drab hole at the rear bulkhead. Any water that might overflow the track dribbles and flow out that interior channel. Otherwise it overflows and puddles & damages the countertops.

              1990 4588
              PORT HUENEME CA

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                #22
                I don't suppose anyone is willing to post before and after pictures of the cut slots?

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                  #23
                  Well, it took 3 of us all day to do the salon windows, horizontal tracks only, top and bottom. Then another day just to do the small windows on each side of the pilothouse, as the seals were in much rougher shape and difficult to remove. Just cleaning those tracks took a couple of hours each side! The new seals allow the windows to slide open and no water coming in. But with a stiff breeze blowing I can feel a lot of air coming in past the vertical channels, so I am going to purchase 18 pieces of the CRL AS136972 channel and install those next. They aren't available locally, so my glass shop is bringing them in from California.
                  On another note, the torrential rains showed leaks around the aluminum frames in the salon. Sealed those up temporarily with DAP kitchen caulk till it warms up again, next spring.

                  And does anyone know of a fix for windshield leaks? It looks like the most common solution is to remove the old seals and bed the glass in permanently. That will likely have to wait till it warms up as well...

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                    #24
                    On the front windsheld some black 4200 in the corners fixed my issues (the rubber seal is the fine it is where the two pieces meet that we have had leaks from time to time.
                    Mark
                    USCG OUPV
                    1990 4588
                    Carlsbad, CA

                    Comment


                      #25
                      There is a thread on windshield leaks. The do it right solution is to pull and reseat the glass. I have every intent to do this! But lot of work to do it right, so, I had a black sunbrella canvas full wro around cover made to get by. Worked ok, no leak or dribble.
                      Rain washes down the pilothouse roof, overflows the toy gutter, flows midway down the windshield, water leaks into the lower frame, overflows to leak on dash or fills the interior dash channel, runs down the pilothouse entry doors, puddles on the teak floor & drips elsewhere!

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                        #26
                        I used a long strip of blisterpack plastic between aluminum frame and window. Worked well.

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                          #27
                          I tried to get my excellent glass shop proprietor to have a shot at re and re-ing the windshield glass. He felt it was unlikely we would get the glass out without breaking at least some of them. He sold me some primerless auto glass urethane adhesive used for windshields. It is Dupont BetaSeal U-418. I removed the rubber seals (they are just for cosmetic looks) and sealed along the glass on the two vertical edges and the bottom edge. So far it has worked well on those two windows. I still need to put it on the other windows that are leaking, though.

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                          • Metrodriver
                            Metrodriver commented
                            Editing a comment
                            If windsheld glass needs to be seperated you might try it with fishing line. I've seen people do that with car windshields to cut the adhesive.

                          #28
                          Raj
                          Do a search on username Simonson. He removed and reinstalled the windshields on a 4788 a while ago, and described it quite well in his post. We replaced the window sliders in our 5788 about three years ago, This was the second boat that we made this change, and one of the good lessons learned after pulling the track into place was to leave the overall length slightly long and almost crush it into the track. This stuff stretches more than you will realize, but will shrink back to its original size over a few weeks. If it’s cut accurately, there is a high risk of it shrinking and leaving a gap.

                          Also do a search on username viewfinder. He removed the sealing trim pieces of the windshields of his 3988, and permanently caulked them into place. The end results were really good and looked like a factory finish, but without any future headaches from shrinkage or leakage.
                          Rob
                          Bayliner 5788
                          'Merlin V'
                          Vancouver BC

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                            #29
                            Thanks Rob, I found the stretch on the slider tracks was pretty amazing. We did the same and left them a bit long ( crossed fingers we left them long enough). I sealed the other glass sections yesterday and today is the test as the rain comes down! We are in False Creek, Vancouver.

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