Propose Change Hino Database- Oil Drain Plug Photo Misleading-gctid352345

[Guest]

No offense to the database administrator or the original photographer, but the photo in the database on draining the oil filter canister has always bothered me. Mainly because I tried using it and didn't have any luck. Steve3218 has tried to point this out in a previous thread. Please read further down in the thread as he used the data base photo in the beginning of the conversation, but posts additional photos to clarify the point:

http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/showthread.php?24929-Oil-change-32XX-Hino-135-s&highlight=drain+bolt

My book on Hino parts has the same description shown in one of the later links in the same thread-

http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serial/WO4CTA_150_HP_HINO_234_I-L4/820753/1020-140

The bolt being pointed at in the first photo below (from the database) is not the drain bolt for the canister, but the bypass valve with alarm for a dirty filter. If you feel my statements are incorrect, please reference a diagram or other such source supporting your position. I consider the data base a very valuable resource and have used it quite a few times. As a newbie, it was the first place I went and ended up with quite a mess using the wrong bolt. Just thought I'd take a shot at it, Dean

[Guest]

Thank you very much for the very clear instruction/advice! I had read other information and was not quite clear on how to proceed as the boat is new to me and this will be first oil change. Regards

Kevin

3218

[smitty477]

Dean,

Very good update and very clear now that you have corrected it.

Warm the oil

Open the correct drain bolt a number of turns as you have identified

Open the vent screw at filter 'top'

Go find something else to do like fuel filters - dont even think about the oil filter for 1/2 hour.

When you come back then you are good to go

Great update.....

[Guest]

toukow wrote:

The black hose is old, cracked, degraded and should be replaced.

[Nikko]

smitty477 wrote:
Dean,

Very good update and very clear now that you have corrected it.

Warm the oil

Open the correct drain bolt a number of turns as you have identified

Open the vent screw at filter 'top'

Go find something else to do like fuel filters - dont even think about the oil filter for 1/2 hour.

When you come back then you are good to go

Great update.....

I did this - but my boat has spin-ons. I punched a hole in the top of the filter, and left them alone for approx 1/2 hr. then I proceeded to get oil everywhere..... sigh.....

did I not back out the "drain bolt" enough?

[Guest]

Nikko wrote:
I did this - but my boat has spin-ons. I punched a hole in the top of the filter, and left them alone for approx 1/2 hr. then I proceeded to get oil everywhere..... sigh.....

did I not back out the "drain bolt" enough?

Ditto, I think over the years I have loosened every bolt anywhere close to the filter and I still end up with oil in the bilge. I have resorted to using a flat tupper ware container that I can position under the spin on filters and absorbent pads under that. So if anyone know's how to do this with the spin ons I would really like to know.

[smitty477]

Hello Nikko,

We have not owned the 32 with the 4 cyls but we have had plenty of experience with the Hino 6 cyls like posted(EH700's) as well as the 6 cyls WO6's with the inverted filters to compare,

Perhaps try these 'tricks' and see if it helps.....

1. Try center puching 2 holes in the filter top, one nearer the edge and one near the center (filter design linits draining).

2. Try backing the bolt out at least 8 turns or so - be ready if you go too far

3. If it is a mess the next time consider pulling the bolt out completely to inspect - only after draining , and must have time to supply new "o" rings if necessary (I cannot remember the size). If passage way is blocked maybe use a pipe cleaner or strong wire to probe the blockage

and/or have a strong wetvac available to pull any crap out.

Hope this helps

[Uncle_Bob]

Absorb cloth down, then spray everything with lots of WD-40. Place a plastic garbage bag around the spin-on and spin the filter into the bag. Put on the new filter and spray all again with WD-40 before wiping down with paper towel. The WD-40 makes the oil less viscose so it drips readily onto the absorb cloth. No need to use the ineffective drain plug or punch holes. Quick, easy and limited mess.

[Guest]

Hi Dean,

Glad I saw this, thanks for the nice picture. I don't check in here much these days, but the warm winter has me fired up early this year. I was going to go see if there were some outboards for sale in classifieds to replace the 225 oil and gas thirsty looper in my CC when I caught this nice post.

That post was not my photo, and I gave credit for it to be careful in that regard. Your recommendation is very well taken and I appreciate the manner in which you propose the changes. Sorry I missed the previous posters who tried to correct this.

I will change the image to your photo. (and you will get "credit", too!) Could you please email ([email protected]) the pic to me with instructions and I will change the post?

It does concern me a bit that not all filters look like yours. You can see in the initial pic that Jim's filter is dissimilar. I think my filter assembly looks like his. I think I tried to back this bolt out when I had the engines out of the boat, and oil did indeed pour out of there! The thread that you reference does label the bolt that Jim points at as "OIL DRAIN", which is then crossed out...??? Anyway, the Hino Database was never perfect, but it tries to be.

I never really did perfect the oil change. I now use Nigel Calder's method ( this guy is my idea of a real diesel "guru" ) of putting diapers, which I now have many of handy, under the filter during oil changes. A rather pleasant diaper odor compared to most. Huggies size 6 are what the real diesel gurus are using, but nothing wrong with Kirkland's, either. And if your kid is less than 6 months old?...forget it. The oil change can wait until he puts some meat on his bones. If you have "Depends" handy, then good for you doing the oil change!! I can barely manage myself.

I have a few of my own recommendations for the Hino Database. First, the name be changed to "Hino Database," which is what I called it initially, and reflects the true nature of what the thread really is. The name was changed without asking me. Second, posts that have nothing to do with Hino information be deleted. PLEASE! I had requested this ad nauseum to our former moderator, but it was ignored. Third...keep the great new pics and ideas coming, Dean!

Sincerely,

Mike

[smitty477]

Hello Mike - Glad to hear from you and we still hope to run into you boating in the future.

"No need to use the ineffective drain plug or punch holes. Quick, easy and limited mess."

For those that cannot seem to get the draining method to work consider utilizing a larger tin piepan normally found for cooking. If you get a large one and place it below your designated 'leak zone' you can collect all the oil and twist and bend the piepan ahead of time so you can 'suck' up the oil with the suction pump.

For us we have both engines and the genset oil drainlines plumbed back to a small manifold which we use to pump all 3 at once. We drain each main as described above into 2 - 5 gal buckets and get almost zero residual oil out of the process as a 'mess'. Once you get the hang of draining the system well the next most likely problem with spin on filters is leaving on the old rubber gasket ending up with 2 and blowing it out upon restart.

Please - try and get it to drian right and your efforts/time will be much reduced.

Hope this helps

[Guest]

Several sheets of newspaper is also good for containing used motor oil.

My oil filter hangs gasket up from the filter block. When I unscrew it I just cup it in several sheets of paper for a drip-free swap.