Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

EH700T: broke a bolt on manicooler inspection plate

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    EH700T: broke a bolt on manicooler inspection plate

    Nothing’s ever easy...

    My project this weekend was to drain coolant (2nd time since December, for those of you who remember how bad it was when I got the boat), replace old hoses, and pull inspection plates to assess the condition of my exhaust runners. All went well until the 4th bolt on my first inspection plate. I snapped the head off the bolt almost before I even started turning it. Very little force—much less than what was required to remove the other 3 bolts.

    The good news is that there’s a bit of bolt protruding from the housing—maybe 1/4” available. I’ve been soaking it with PB Blaster for the past 48 hours and tried my vice grips yesterday (careful not to wear down whatever I have to work with) but couldn’t get it to move.

    i did pick up a reverse drill bit and some easy outs but I’m afraid to try them and make things worse. There’s also not really any room to get a fill in there since the valve cover is in the way.

    Any advice on how to proceed? I didn’t really want to pull the manicoolers until this fall... Thinking I might be on the verge of bringing in a pro for the first time.

    Also, I did find some gritty hard buildup in there... can’t identify it. You can see a bit of it around the inspection port as well as in the HX bundle .
    Attached Files
    Brad
    Lake Union, Seattle
    1987 Bayliner 4550 "Ark Angel"
    Hino EH700T / MG-502 / Cummins Onan 7kw
    Seattle Yacht Club

    #2
    Take it to your local EDM specialist. He’ll have it out leaving the threads unharmed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VvLJWkFGIw
    Jim Gandee
    1989 3888
    Hino 175's
    Fire Escape
    [email protected]
    Alamitos Bay, SoCal

    Comment


      #3
      If you have to remove the Manicooler it would be a great time to ceramic coat it....Had a similar problem and welded a nut to what was left of the threads and between the heat and PB blaster it was removed easily.
      Brad & Sharon
      Lady Jake
      1985 4550 EH 700TI /Twin Disc 502
      Anacortes/La Conner, Wa.

      Comment


        #4
        Click image for larger version

Name:	93A19F3A-CA97-4E98-9473-7CE91C658797.jpeg
Views:	107
Size:	626.9 KB
ID:	617328 Click image for larger version

Name:	73128910-B10A-4817-B129-3F0ABBA75960.jpeg
Views:	104
Size:	2.68 MB
ID:	617329 Click image for larger version

Name:	519C1CF7-BEDD-45B6-B21A-3F31EE0301EE.jpeg
Views:	133
Size:	404.6 KB
ID:	617327

        Not sure why my pictures didn’t attach last night.

        I read a similar thread from a couple years ago. EDM sounds interesting.

        if I have to remove it, yeah I’ll just remove both and have the bundles tested and the manifolds ceramic coated.

        Question: if I’m taking the manifolds off for a month or so to get that work done, am I ok leaving the block drained of coolant or should I fill the block with coolant to just below the manicooler to prevent any corrosion from setting in?
        Brad
        Lake Union, Seattle
        1987 Bayliner 4550 "Ark Angel"
        Hino EH700T / MG-502 / Cummins Onan 7kw
        Seattle Yacht Club

        Comment


          #5
          if its still in the boat and you have good access, a good welder could weld onto the nub, which the heat would help loosen it from the hole, and with the extra bit if stud welded on to it, it could easily be removed....

          other than welding or removing the cooler from the boat, keep up with the pb blaster for 2 days, spraying it every few hours, and gently tapping it with a hammer BEFORE spraying each time, to help loosen the corrosion thats holding it so solid... and when you try to turn it out, rock it gently back and forth in the hole, rather than just trying to turn it out, as the back and forth motion helps to grind away the corrosion in the threads so that it can unscrew without becoming stuck again after a half a turn...


          NU LIBERTE'
          Salem, OR

          1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
          5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
          N2K equipped throughout..
          2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
          2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
          '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
          Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Centerline2 View Post
            if its still in the boat and you have good access, a good welder could weld onto the nub, which the heat would help loosen it from the hole, and with the extra bit if stud welded on to it, it could easily be removed....

            other than welding or removing the cooler from the boat, keep up with the pb blaster for 2 days, spraying it every few hours, and gently tapping it with a hammer BEFORE spraying each time, to help loosen the corrosion thats holding it so solid... and when you try to turn it out, rock it gently back and forth in the hole, rather than just trying to turn it out, as the back and forth motion helps to grind away the corrosion in the threads so that it can unscrew without becoming stuck again after a half a turn...
            Thanks — I’ll add the hammer tap to my spray regimen.
            Brad
            Lake Union, Seattle
            1987 Bayliner 4550 "Ark Angel"
            Hino EH700T / MG-502 / Cummins Onan 7kw
            Seattle Yacht Club

            Comment


              #7
              This is the universe telling you to pull it.

              Weld a washer to the nub then weld something to twist on.

              Where that is in those pictures there's no drilling option with it on the engine.
              1999 Sandpiper Pilothouse - Current
              1989 3888 - 2011-2019, 1985 Contessa - 2005-2011, 1986 21' Trophy 1998-2005
              Nobody gets out alive.

              Comment


                #8
                What kind of bolts should I use for replacements? Stainless steel or carbon steel or ___ ? I couldn't find any non-stainless bolts at Fisheries so will have to go to a hardware store if I need something other than SS.
                Brad
                Lake Union, Seattle
                1987 Bayliner 4550 "Ark Angel"
                Hino EH700T / MG-502 / Cummins Onan 7kw
                Seattle Yacht Club

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by purduepilot View Post
                  What kind of bolts should I use for replacements? Stainless steel or carbon steel or ___ ? I couldn't find any non-stainless bolts at Fisheries so will have to go to a hardware store if I need something other than SS.
                  dont use stainless... it can cause its own set of problems, IF theres a problem... I would go with a grade 8 steel bolt, and either marine never seize, or even better, nickle never seize...


                  NU LIBERTE'
                  Salem, OR

                  1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
                  5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
                  N2K equipped throughout..
                  2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
                  2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
                  '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
                  Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

                  Comment


                  • purduepilot
                    purduepilot commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thanks. I've been using Permatex anti-seize--have a big jar to get through...

                  • kwb
                    kwb commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Gr8 or 10.9 (pretty sure these are M6) is overkill going into an aluminum casting for an access plate. Original fasteners were yellow zinc plated. I am pretty sure that the plates were yellow zinc as well.

                  #10
                  If you pull the valve cover you might be able to use a 90 degree drill adapter.
                  https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dew...ent/1000830237

                  James
                  1989 Bayliner 3888, 175 Hinos,
                  Hurth 630's Onan 8kw MDKD
                  Lowrance Electronics!
                  Boating on Georgian Bay & the North Channel
                  Completed the Great Loop 07/25/19
                  AGLCA #8340
                  MTOA# 7469

                  Comment


                  • purduepilot
                    purduepilot commented
                    Editing a comment
                    i thought about that a bit... but afraid to have the drill bit wander and mess up the threads. Going to try to get a boat diesel mechanic out this week to use a torch on it.

                  #11
                  Heating the manifold with an acetylene torch did the trick.
                  Brad
                  Lake Union, Seattle
                  1987 Bayliner 4550 "Ark Angel"
                  Hino EH700T / MG-502 / Cummins Onan 7kw
                  Seattle Yacht Club

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X