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    Floor Covering ideas needed

    The original carpets are coming out according to my crew members. The problem is what to replace them with. The current colors are based around Sea foam Green, so we want to compliment that and the teak cabinets. Here’s kinda where we are:
    • Salon
      • Area under the table will be a hard surface
      • A hatch accessing the cave will be added
    Challenges for a hard surface include:
    • Choice and workability of materials to trim hatch openings
    • Flatness or flattening of the subfloor
    • Noise control from the engines
    • Identifying a complimentary color and style consistent with the teak cabinets
      • Carpet
        • Crew doesn’t want sea foam green carpet
        • Material and pile type
    • Galley and passageway to fwd Stateroom
      • Replace galley sole and passageway carpet with a hard surface of the same material used in the salon but may have a different color
    • Guest Stateroom
      • Replace carpet with carpet
      • Research area under the subfloor for use as storage as mentioned by Cool Beans as he did a subfloor repair
    • Fwd Stateroom
      • Replace deck carpet, find options for hull liner
        • Dye hull liner
        • Cover hull liner with vinyl
        • Strip off hull liner and replace with the same carpet as cabin floor.
    • Hard surface materials
      • LVT
        • Lots of choices of colors
        • Temperature stable
        • Subfloor must be fared
      • Engineered wood
        • Finishing of raw edges around hatches
        • Sealing joints
      • Teak and Holly Plywood
        • Price per square foot installed
        • Waste​​​​​​​
      • Other suggestions?
    Installation of any of the choices isn’t an issue, if my sons don’t know how, they know someone who does.
    What ideas do you have? I’m really interested in sound control as part of the project.
    P/C Pete
    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
    MMSI 367770440

    #2
    We put LVP flooring in much of our home over the last couple of years.

    Why???

    Looks nice
    indestructable by our dogs
    not always “dirty” like carpet seems to be.

    We have carpet in our boat but I will seriously consider LVP at replacement time.

    KEVIN SANDERS
    4788 LISAS WAY - SEWARD ALASKA
    www.transferswitch4less.com

    where are we right now?

    https://maps.findmespot.com/s/36S4

    Comment


      #3
      Pete,
      I had Infiniti woven vinyl installed in the Salon of my 38. I first saw this material at the boat show being used on the new Chris Crafts. It comes in a plethora of designs and color. We choose the darker brown with black stripes ( like a teak & holly pattern) It snaps down so its easy to roll up for hatch access. Its impervious to wine, oils, pretty much anything used on a boat. It has a foam backing to its comfortable. We had the salon done by a supplier but we decided to do the cockpit and flybridge ourselves. We found the material on Ebay listed under woven vinyl flooring. its commonly used on pontoon boats. Just another option.
      Gibraltar, Mi.
      1986- 3870- Hino 175's
      1988 26' Shamrock/ Diesel
      14' Zodiac Bay Runner

      Comment


        #4
        Pete,

        We have been contemplating the same thing I think we are doing carpet for most of the boat leaving the galley floor in teak, thought about LVT but are wondering how slippery it would be when the boat rocks. MY brother bought Blue Diamond the 34 Tollycraft just down a couple of boats from yours and he is putting LVT throughout the boat not sure as to how quick but when it gets done you could check it out.

        Comment


        • Pcpete
          Pcpete commented
          Editing a comment
          Thx. We have LVT in our master bathroom at the house and it isn’t as slippery as the 1950’s oak hardwood or ceramic tile in the rest of the house. There’s a member here that did their 49 with the LVT a couple of years ago and love it. Installation time was significantly increased because the decks needed to be fared.

        • zentodd
          zentodd commented
          Editing a comment
          I put LVT in my Carver and found it to be wonderful. Easy to clean and indestructible. I glued it down to prevent moisture getting below and it worked great.

        #5
        Pete, I have laminate wood flooring under the solon table which makes food and drink spill clean up easy. Other than the galley the rest of the boat is carpet which we like for three reasons: 1. Comfort. 2. Sound insulation. 3. Warmth, both in temp and looks.
        Jim Gandee
        1989 3888
        Hino 175's
        Fire Escape
        [email protected]
        Alamitos Bay, SoCal

        Comment


          #6
          Pete,
          A dockmate in Alameda had his 3888 carpet removed and redone in teak and holly Lonseal. Looked great! He fished a lot and was so easy to clean. It was one of the drivers in us redoing our 47 salon, galley and PH in teak and holly Lonseal. We replaced the carpet with carpet in the lower areas, staterooms and hallway? We’ve had it for 4 seasons now. It has held up great! My only regret is not doing the lower areas in Lonseal. I have done several different Click image for larger version  Name:	image.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.14 MB ID:	600300
          postings that may be of interest. You might want to look at those using the search function. There may be some useful info. If you want to discuss, shoot me a PM. I definitely learned a few things in the process that I would do differently that would have saved some install time and a little money
          Steve
          Last edited by Woodsea; 09-19-2020, 09:28 AM. Reason: Add
          2000 4788 w Cummins 370's, underhulls, swim step hull extension
          12' Rendova center console with 40HP Yamaha
          MV Kia Orana
          Currently Enjoying the PNW

          Comment


            #7
            We went a little different route, we used prefinished 3/8 Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry) the cost of materials for the entire boat was just a little over 2 boat units. Labor costs will depend on your skill set...Click image for larger version

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            Comment


            • Woodsea
              Woodsea commented
              Editing a comment
              Looks great!

            #8
            Question for those who did this themselves: how the heck do you get the hatches to be so perfect? Just started a flooring project myself (never done one before) and I’m baffled by how you do hatches like that. Mine don’t come out quite as nice or tightly fit. At all.

            looks amazing! All of you!

            Comment


            • PFW
              PFW commented
              Editing a comment
              I squared the hatch openings, this required cutting the existing subfloor. Than I replaced the old non square hatch subfloor with new plywood that was cut 1/2 smaller on 2 adjacent sides. this gave a 1/4 inch reveal on each side of the hatch. then cut the underlayment and flooring to match the the the new hatch cover....In order to maintain the 1/4 inch gap I ripped 1 inch starboard with a 1/4 inch bevel, used opposing sides of the starboard attached to the hatch sides and the sides of the opening to seal and center the hatch in the opening.

            #9
            Basically we did the following:
            1. removed existing carpet, pad, staples (pulling), glue (scraping), rough level floor (sanding)
            2. laid 1/4” sanded plywood over everything to be covered with Lonseal. Lonseal needs a smooth surface. The plywood was epoxied down and held in place with finish nailer.
            3. each hatch and opening was then squared. Each hatch was worked from the center hatch out. The center hatch is the only one trimmed underneath with 3/4”x3/4” to lock it into its opening. Each hatch and opening was to be trimmed in 1/4” teak. We wanted a 1/16” gap between hatches. So we used sized accordingly. We also wanted all the teak and holly lines to line up. Also our floor over the engines is basically all hatches. We reused the existing hatches so we had to build out some of them before squaring. (We should have just replaced with 1” sanded plywood and started fresh) We then centered each hatch in its opening.
            4. we epoxied down the Lonseal as one big sheet. After curing, we rough cut each opening. This was simple to do with knife. Then we finish cut the Lonseal for each hatch and opening.
            5. From a couple of 1” thick teak boards, we ripped a bunch of 1/4” x 1” teak trim pieces. Each trim piece was sanded and finished with floor urethane on three sides.
            6. each teak piece was then epoxied and finish nailed in place. We tinted the epoxy using teak sanding dust so it blends very well. We tried to leave each trim piece ever so slightly proud to protect the Lonseal edges.
            7. the perimeter edges of the floor was trimmed in the same 1/4” x 1” teak trim strips.

            It took two of us working 10-12 hour days about three to four weeks. A lot of time was spent figuring out how to do each step and get everything to line up. We also did some other mods along the way like adding in a lower opening hinged stair hatch, adding hinges to the utility room hatch. At the same time we modified the TV cabinet. Those probably amounted to a week.
            The result is a tight fitting, everything lines up, easy to clean, durable, grippy, nice looking floor.

            If I were doing it over, I would probably consider using 1/4” prefinished plywood and matching door skin for stair risers, galley and pilothouse floor. I would consider not using a pattern like teak and holly to make lining things up easier. Lining up the pilothouse floor stairs and salon took a lot of figuring out and patience. I would trim it in a similar fashion to what we did. That helps make the edges durable. I would also just replace the hatches with new. I would have made more use of accurate templates. Using a clear soft vinyl that is easily marked and cut to make the templates would have made the pilothouse much easier. Taking these steps probably would result in a significant reduction of labor.

            Also, we did this dockside and lived aboard. Virtually everything was cleaned up off the dock and inside each evening. A different environment like being in a yard or moored behind a home with a shop would have simplified things. I also hired a fellow who was good working with wood but neither of us had ever done a project like this. Like I said above, a lot of time was spent just figuring out our system.
            2000 4788 w Cummins 370's, underhulls, swim step hull extension
            12' Rendova center console with 40HP Yamaha
            MV Kia Orana
            Currently Enjoying the PNW

            Comment

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