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Hino Alternator External Regulation Conversion

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  • Shipsngiggles
    replied
    I had 2 8Ds flooded as house bank and they produced a measly 450Ah of which I could only use 50% due to the lead acid battery chemistry issues and such... So effectively I had 225Ah of usable power, and that is when they were brand new. With the 1200Ah I put in now. I'm actually about 40lbs lighter on the overall weight but I have 5x the usable power. Anchoring has really never been so stress free.

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  • Roddy
    replied
    Not yet... 8 new flooded batteries last fall and new starting 8D in August. Next set will be LP04 for house.

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  • Shipsngiggles
    replied
    Yeah, I know... kinda crazy how expensive things get. Are you going to be doing LiFePO4 batteries?

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  • Roddy
    replied
    Correct, marine wire doesn't have to be tinned or even marine grade. ABYC regulations are for guidance only. Unlike National Electrical Code that is the law. Even under NEC you will not find many electrical engineers or electricians that just meet NEC codes, most exceed the minimums.
    Problems begin when something goes wrong and insurance claim is made. I don't want to spend $13 bucks a foot for Marine cable either. But playing with 150 plus amps, if something goes wrong, its gets really bad, really fast! Fuel lines, filters, high amperage cables and high amperage fuses in the same basket, both are safety items.
    Forgot to add that having 200 amp alternator opens the door for fast charging LiFePO4 batteries that can take everything alternator can produce.

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  • Shipsngiggles
    replied
    Ummm... I don't know about that... Seriously I don't. I talked to my insurance company extensively before doing the LiFePO4 battery upgrades, and have spoken to a marine surveyor that specializes in insurance surveys... they all said that regular wire is fine so long as it is properly protected, ie. dielectric grease put on it before crimping the connectors and I actually went the extra mile and heat shrunk the wire and the connector to prevent moisture of getting in there. If I am soldering the wire together, I'll use the tinned wire just because it is really easy to solder, but other than that I've always gone with standard copper. I am all about safety but copper wiring has been used in boats for decades without serious problems. Either way, good luck to you man. It is going to be a bear of a project. 3/0 tinned wire is a bear to handle... I don't envy you one bit.

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  • Roddy
    replied
    Yes, using marine rated tinned 3/0 is pricey! This is why I'm mocking cables up using 5/8's hose.
    Talked to marine electrician, he says circuit has to be cabled for maximum alternator output for safety. If insurance surveyor was to look, it has meet ABYC, so no welding cable,

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  • Shipsngiggles
    replied
    Are you planning on using an external regulator? If so you can just limit the amperage through the regulator. I also believe that the units you are getting have built in Amp load adjustment screw. Either way, you will end up about the same spot if you take the money you would spend on 3/0 wire and get external monitors from Balmar. Just a thought.

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  • Roddy
    replied
    Agree 2/0 is ok for our use. Normal cruise is 6 knots SOG at 1100 rpm. Translates into approximately 2200 alternator rpm.
    Looking at output graph its about 150 amps. 2/0 is fine 99% of the time...
    Alternator at 2500 engine rpm = 5000 alternator rpm. 5000 rpm = 225 amps. So to be 100% with ABYC I need 3/0.
    Blue Seas Circiit Wizzard free app, has handy calculator for volts amps and length.
    Thats how I know 3/0 is required.
    Going to run 3/0 ground as well. Dont like the long path grounding conductors take. Cant trace them easily, but think they probably terminate at starting battery and have tie with house negitive.
    Due to battery location its an 18 foot run (10 feet on positive and 8 feet on negative). Will use 2 X 250 amp ANL fuses, they have 15% overload for 10 minutes. I'm sure by 10 minutes at full load alternator will be hot and output drops low enough so that fuse will not blow.


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  • Pcpete
    replied
    The strand count is, to me, the bigger factor between 2/0 and 3/0. If the strand count is really high in the 2/0, it may very well carry the power better than a low count 3/0. Just what you need, one more variable to consider.

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  • Shipsngiggles
    replied
    Question, why do you need 3/0 wire?? 2AWG wire will handle 160Amps for the 10 feet that we need, and I'd never run the alternators at that high anyways... I'd run them at 70% max for longevity and not boiling the batteries to death by pushing too much current to them.

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  • Shipsngiggles
    replied
    Roddy, I picked up some 2/0 wire 25ft off of Amazon for $50 which is really reasonable. I didn't bother using tinned wire because I dip the ends in dielectric grease anyways which protects the copper and makes the use of tinned wire not necessary in most cases. I use tinned wire in AC circuits and my communication lines.

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  • Roddy
    replied
    Same with me... running Denso's until have time to complete over winter.
    Installing Leece Neville on port engine as there is lots room and perfect sight lines. Starboard only has about a foot between fuel tank and alternator.
    Electrically it looks straight forward to move starboard Denso alternator connections on Master Battery Panel, switches from house assignment to engine.
    Need to use a lot of 3/0 $$$. Will use garden hose to mock up alternator output and ground routing. Then get cables made up.
    ABYC requires 2 fuses, one at alternator and other at battery. Will use the new negative color option, yellow.

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  • Shipsngiggles
    replied
    Looks awesome Roddy, great job man. Those look beautiful. I'll be getting on this shortly. I have to get a couple of other projects done on the boat. But at least I am going into the off season not worrying how much time I have to spend fixing everything before the spring. Right now most of my projects are either cosmetic or upgrades, most everything else is done.

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  • Roddy
    replied
    Here are pictures of mock up of 4800 series on W06. Note the shims between J180 small foot and large foot on alternator. Only modification needed is upper belt tension arm to be brought forward 1 inch. Will make new arm to provide clearance for coolant hose. New arm will be in front alternator.
    This alternator is single wire, and does not need any part of Nippon Denso wiring. Have external 3 stage regulator that will be installed to complete winter project.
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  • Shipsngiggles
    replied
    Rody,

    thanks for the info. I greatly appreciate it.

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