I wrote this a while back and saw the current post on the water sending unit (I used the WEMA unit as a replacment) so finally decided to post it. The pictures are big, but given the evidently large number of geezers on this forum, perhaps that's best. 
Well, I thought I had a leaking water tank but was mistaken. If I'd known before taking out the tank just how the bilge areas interconnect, I might not have made the misdiagnosis. I'm still not sure what all was going on but 1. I had water under the galley step (I think from a leaking tubing fitting just inside the forward cave bulkhead) and 2. Had water in the master berth bilge.
So I pulled out the aluminum tank through the rear window (much fun had by all, OK, it was just me making it worse) and pressure tested it. No leaks. I was going to cheap out, cut some access holes to clean it, and put her back in. Then I read somewhere that the pitting that occurs on the aluminum happens behind the calcium deposits. So I chipped off some of those deposits and there was indeed significant pitting of the aluminum. This changed my mind on replacement.
BTW: Water in the Pacific NW must be pretty good in general. I had seen pictures of the interior of water tanks on the forum which looked pretty scary for drinking water. Mine was very clean, other than the calcium deposits, and I would not have hesitated to drink the water if I'd kept the tank. In fact, when I first looked in it, it was so clear that the tank appeared empty.
I researched the tanks and you can get the exact aluminum replacement from the original manufacturer up in Bellingham. I think it was going to run around $800 and that was with me picking it up. They will also make the tank with the standard forum recommended modification of moving the water tank outlet to the aft end of the tank. This will allow you to utilize more of the contents, given the stern squat of the 32's.
So I looked at other options, one of which was to use a plastic tank from Ronco. The height dimension is the major constraint in selecting the replacement tank. I ended up buying the B308 which measures 64L x 22Wx 9 1/8H unit, and rated 50 gallons and a cost somewhere around half of the aluminum version. This has less capacity than the stated factory unit, but if you relocate the outlet to the stern you can minimize somewhat the difference in capacity. I've got to believe you lose a minimum of 10 gallons in the factory setup given the front outlet. This one is a bit narrower than the original, so I added cleats to the inside of the stringers with cross members (not shown in photo) for additional support.
I had heard good things about Ronco, but now believe they cannot follow the most basic of directions, regardless of the detail provided. I provided an Autocad drawing in PDF format, and they couldn't even get the outlet on the correct side of the tank. I had requested for the outlet to be on the port side of the tank at the rear to avoid the additional 90 degree bend shown in the photo given where I relocated the water pump. I had access to stainless metal banding so I used the same approach as the factory for securing the new tank.
My existing setup had the water pump in the cave, but also had a 2 gallon accumulator/pressure tank (which is massive, according to many of you in response to my previous post) installed as well. This made it very cramped for routing hoses, wires, etc. So I looked for a place to relocate it.
In previous posts on maximizing useable space, some of you pointed out that you had found storage in the dead space to the port of the refrigerator. It was a perfect location for the massive pressure tank, new pump with strainer, and I installed a 'whole boat' water filter to boot. My refrigerator is easily removed and this makes working on the system much more comfortable and it was dead space to boot. And somehow I like having the fresh water supply separated from the head holding tank, but that's probably just me.
I also reworked almost all of the water tubing. I made the mistake of putting my finger inside the water fill line during tank removal. This forced me replace that as well, given the wonderful sliminess of it all after so many years. In for a penny, might as well be in for a pound.
So the pump and pressure tank relocation opened up the area under the helm for access. The smaller tank probably isn't as big of reduction as it sounds over the factory setup given the outlet relocation to the rear. I also like the additional storage under the bed (plywood plank is removed in photo) and access to this area of the bilge for checking from time to time. On a long trip I will store water jugs there to help mitigate the tank size reduction.
For what it's worth, Dean
Well, I thought I had a leaking water tank but was mistaken. If I'd known before taking out the tank just how the bilge areas interconnect, I might not have made the misdiagnosis. I'm still not sure what all was going on but 1. I had water under the galley step (I think from a leaking tubing fitting just inside the forward cave bulkhead) and 2. Had water in the master berth bilge.
So I pulled out the aluminum tank through the rear window (much fun had by all, OK, it was just me making it worse) and pressure tested it. No leaks. I was going to cheap out, cut some access holes to clean it, and put her back in. Then I read somewhere that the pitting that occurs on the aluminum happens behind the calcium deposits. So I chipped off some of those deposits and there was indeed significant pitting of the aluminum. This changed my mind on replacement.
BTW: Water in the Pacific NW must be pretty good in general. I had seen pictures of the interior of water tanks on the forum which looked pretty scary for drinking water. Mine was very clean, other than the calcium deposits, and I would not have hesitated to drink the water if I'd kept the tank. In fact, when I first looked in it, it was so clear that the tank appeared empty.
I researched the tanks and you can get the exact aluminum replacement from the original manufacturer up in Bellingham. I think it was going to run around $800 and that was with me picking it up. They will also make the tank with the standard forum recommended modification of moving the water tank outlet to the aft end of the tank. This will allow you to utilize more of the contents, given the stern squat of the 32's.
So I looked at other options, one of which was to use a plastic tank from Ronco. The height dimension is the major constraint in selecting the replacement tank. I ended up buying the B308 which measures 64L x 22Wx 9 1/8H unit, and rated 50 gallons and a cost somewhere around half of the aluminum version. This has less capacity than the stated factory unit, but if you relocate the outlet to the stern you can minimize somewhat the difference in capacity. I've got to believe you lose a minimum of 10 gallons in the factory setup given the front outlet. This one is a bit narrower than the original, so I added cleats to the inside of the stringers with cross members (not shown in photo) for additional support.
I had heard good things about Ronco, but now believe they cannot follow the most basic of directions, regardless of the detail provided. I provided an Autocad drawing in PDF format, and they couldn't even get the outlet on the correct side of the tank. I had requested for the outlet to be on the port side of the tank at the rear to avoid the additional 90 degree bend shown in the photo given where I relocated the water pump. I had access to stainless metal banding so I used the same approach as the factory for securing the new tank.
My existing setup had the water pump in the cave, but also had a 2 gallon accumulator/pressure tank (which is massive, according to many of you in response to my previous post) installed as well. This made it very cramped for routing hoses, wires, etc. So I looked for a place to relocate it.
In previous posts on maximizing useable space, some of you pointed out that you had found storage in the dead space to the port of the refrigerator. It was a perfect location for the massive pressure tank, new pump with strainer, and I installed a 'whole boat' water filter to boot. My refrigerator is easily removed and this makes working on the system much more comfortable and it was dead space to boot. And somehow I like having the fresh water supply separated from the head holding tank, but that's probably just me.
I also reworked almost all of the water tubing. I made the mistake of putting my finger inside the water fill line during tank removal. This forced me replace that as well, given the wonderful sliminess of it all after so many years. In for a penny, might as well be in for a pound.
So the pump and pressure tank relocation opened up the area under the helm for access. The smaller tank probably isn't as big of reduction as it sounds over the factory setup given the outlet relocation to the rear. I also like the additional storage under the bed (plywood plank is removed in photo) and access to this area of the bilge for checking from time to time. On a long trip I will store water jugs there to help mitigate the tank size reduction.
For what it's worth, Dean
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