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    engine and coolers flush fresh water.

    Has anyone come up with a reasonable way to flush the engines and coolers with fresh water and some suitable chemicals ?

    #2
    What type of boat/engine?
    1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
    2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
    Anacortes, WA

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Canuck View Post
      Has anyone come up with a reasonable way to flush the engines and coolers with fresh water and some suitable chemicals ?
      it depends on the application and what one would consider "reasonable"..... are the engines on a closed loop or open seawater cooled?..... coolers?, how many and for what purposed do they serve, and how are they plumbed in to the system?.... it is probably a lot less complicated than you imagine :-)

      suitable chemicals?.... for flushing a seawater system, fresh water is about the best you can do, unless you have a recirculating flush system, in which case one can use added chemicals such as vinegar or other calcium softening/dissolving "chemical"....


      NU LIBERTE'
      Salem, OR

      1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
      5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
      N2K equipped throughout..
      2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
      2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
      '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
      Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

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        #4
        sorry , Hino 6 cyl turbo 250hp..chemical would be phospho or rydlime..

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        • Centerline2
          Centerline2 commented
          Editing a comment
          on the hard, or in the water?.... if its in the water, the chemicals may not be appropriate,... but no matter, if you were to shut off the seacock to the engine cooling water intake, and install a fitting (with a shutoff valve) into the the intake line from the seacock to the seawater pump, so that you could connect a garden hose to it, then you can flush the engine in the same manner as an outdrive by shutting off the main seacock so the garden hose can supply the water to the system...

          ive seen this done on the hard, and also seen dome shaped devices with a seal around the edge that can be placed over the water intake beneath the hull (and held in place by propping a stick or rod against it from the ground) so a garden hose can be attached....

          if you have other coolers, such as the A/C heat exchanger that needs flushed, it will need to be done thru its own intake, unless it is connected in the same line that goes to the engine cooling system...

          you can either devise a tank to catch the water as it leaves the systems so it can be re-pumped thru the system, or disposed of as desired... or let it run on to the ground.

        #5
        As Centerline2 mentioned, if it's on the hard you can use one of these:
        https://www.fisheriessupply.com/moel...sher-099085-00
        https://www.fisheriessupply.com/sea-...flush-521550-1

        I've used the type with the long pole. They are designed for smaller boats on trailers, so the pole is not long enough for a larger boat on stands. You'll need to make a pole extension or set the standard pole on blocks, crates, etc. to raise it.
        1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
        2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
        Anacortes, WA

        Comment


          #6
          Here are a couple of options
          https://www.go2marine.com/Perko-Flus...yABEgIvVvD_BwE
          http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s...ter-39899.html
          P/C Pete
          Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
          1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
          Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
          1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
          MMSI 367770440
          1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
          Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

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            #7
            many thanks, was going to do the adapter into hose but like the idea of the nipple, tee etc at the strainer..not difficult.
            Thanks again guys..

            Comment


              #8
              Originally posted by Canuck View Post
              many thanks, was going to do the adapter into hose but like the idea of the nipple, tee etc at the strainer..not difficult.
              Thanks again guys..
              If you intend to leave the flushing covers on the strainers all the time, make sure that you use bronze fittings and valve, instead of the brass normally available at hardware stores. Brass will rapidly corrode in contact with salt water. Get the items from a marine supplier to ensure they are bronze.
              1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
              2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
              Anacortes, WA

              Comment


                #9
                A flush port installed between the sea cock and strainer would allow you to flush with fresh water via the garden hose by simply closing the sea cock and pulling your supply water from the garden hose attachment as centerline explained.
                this will work on the hard or moored. As centerline said, I’d not recommend the chemical flush if moored.
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

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                  #10
                  Has anyone made up a recirculating type arrangement so that the chemical is circulated for a while then disposed, I had it on Detroits but see no simple way of doing it on the Hinos.

                  Comment


                    #11
                    YES, we use a pump to circulate, a 5 gallon bucket and pull the solution from the bucket to the circulating pump into the hose on the outside of he raw seawater pump and use a hose on the exhaust water side of manicooler, takes some adapters but a good solution for descaling, ran it a few hours on each engine.
                    Mark
                    USCG OUPV
                    1990 4588
                    Carlsbad, CA

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                      #12
                      Here's what I did.

                      https://sites.google.com/site/lhboat...erization-mods
                      100T MMC 2307794

                      Comment


                        #13
                        Originally posted by lhighland View Post
                        I'm guessing that the garden hose fitting is brass. If so, you run the risk of sinking the boat if the strainer covers with the hose fitting are left n permanently.

                        Read this article on decincification of brass: https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/down-brass-tacks/
                        1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
                        2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
                        Anacortes, WA

                        Comment


                          #14
                          if you close the seacocks and open the strainer, you can use a garden hose to simply flush with dock water...at idle you will not use enough water to run dry, Have a friend be ready to shut down engines after you run water thru a minute or so and have a valve on the hose to close off water at the strainer. This is easier than adding a flush tee and one less place to leak....and easier. Ken

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                            #15
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                            I Use these Groco flush kits on all the boats Ive owned with great success. I flush everytime I get back to my home port. It only takes 5-10 minutes per engine and it keeps them salt free and my zincs don't get eaten as much.
                            MY 3988
                            M/V MMPOWRD
                            Poulsbo, WA

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                            • builderdude
                              builderdude commented
                              Editing a comment
                              That’s the way to go right there👍🏼
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