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removing 4788 prop shaft coupler

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    removing 4788 prop shaft coupler

    Hello all.

    First time posting here. Last year I purchased a 1997 4788 w/370 Cummins. This site has been an amazing resource for what to look for and what to work on immediately.

    I am switching to dripless prop shaft seals. I have the shaft coupler bolts out and have pulled the old packing out to compress the old style gland to get some room, but i cant see how to get enough room to get a socket inside the coupler to remove the nut at the end of the shaft and enough clearance to start to remove the coupler. It looks like the shaft needs to be "backed out" but I cant figure out how to get enough room to start the process.? The back of the coupler hits on the packing adjustment,

    I have found other posts on this subject but haven't found enough detail on removing the coupler.

    I have attached a picture to show the specifcs.

    looking forward to your help,

    Tom

    #2
    You have to make a special wrench to reach in behind the coupler. When I made mine I used a 1 1/2 inch socket that I shortend and welded it to a flat bar. That was for a 32xx with 1 1/4 inch shaft, so yours is probably a larger socket.
    Kevin
    Seattle
    'Joysea' 1998 3788 MY 270 Cummins
    My 6th Bayliner

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      #3
      Not sure I see the big picture here, but you might consider a Crowfoot wrench for hard to access nuts. Also, you can loosen those coupler nuts a few turns but still on the bolts, then go into reverse momentarily to have the prop back the shaft out a bit.
      "Impasse". 2001 3988
      Cummins 330's
      Puget Sound

      "You don't want to be the richest guy in the nursing home..."

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        #4
        Thanks for the responses. I think I read that the nut on the 2" shaft is 1 13/16". I am making the wrench today as Kevin described.

        I have the coupler bolts out and have the coupler separated. Struggling with enough real estate to slide the shaft back far enough to get a wrench on the nut at the end of the shaft. There is only about an 1" of space before the coupler hits the stuffing box.

        Tom

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          #5
          I just did my seals. The PSS seal is not as long as what you have. The PSS bellow also compresses to make room. Compresses, I had enough room between the couple faces to just fit a shallow 1-13/16 socket and 1" drive breaker bar. The nut may be surprising loose. The nut is a thin nylock.

          Looking at your picture, I'd cut that rubber hose you have out of the way to let the shaft slide back. You won't re-use that hose if you change to PSS Dripless.

          I also made a home-made coupler-puller. Nothing fancy, but with some heat, the coupling will come off the shaft nicely. (Don't forget the two set-screws). Anyone near Vancouver is welcome to borrow my coupler puller.
          1997 Bayliner 4788 "Mostly Harmless"
          Sold: 1990 Bayliner 3888

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            #6
            Thanks Cptmorgan. Cutting the hose out gave me the distance I needed to get the socket in there!

            Tom

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