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    Cermic Coat Manicooler

    3 years ago we replaced our manicoolers and had them ceramic coated prior to install. had to replace our cooling bundle last weekend as we have seawater getting into the coolant and felt that was the cause at this point....while I had this apart I took a quick picture as there has been lots of debate on how the coating works, I think it looks really clean after 3 years and like new...I thought I share as many have asked in past for visual proof.
    Attached Files
    Mark
    USCG OUPV
    1990 4588
    Carlsbad, CA

    #2
    Thanks. I learned another goody over the weekend about our Hinos. Many of us know the injectors are installed in a copper sleeve. I learned that those copper sleeves are directly exposed to the coolant and, surprise, surprise, if the coolant turns acidic, the copper gets eaten and very bad things happen. Now I have another good reason for testing often and changing the coolant every couple years.
    P/C Pete
    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
    MMSI 367770440

    Comment


      #3
      YES, that is exactly what happened on this engine last year, did the head gasket, injector sleeves, and seals .....fun stuff ;(
      Mark
      USCG OUPV
      1990 4588
      Carlsbad, CA

      Comment


        #4
        Doing a little dumpster diving through the forum here tonight and came across this thread. It sounds like a lot of people do powder-coating of the manicooler. What's the benefit and ballpark cost of doing this? I'm planning to pull the bundles for cleaning and pressure-testing as preventative maintenance but now wondering if I should be doing more.
        EH700T, 4000 hours, new-to-me boat, unsure previous maintenance other than brand-new SS exhaust risers.
        Brad
        Lake Union, Seattle
        1987 Bayliner 4550 "Fighting Irish"
        Hino EH700T / MG-502 / Cummins Onan 7kw

        Comment


          #5
          Ceramic coating has work great for myself on the mani cooler and elbows by protecting them and keep
          them like
          new
          Mark
          USCG OUPV
          1990 4588
          Carlsbad, CA

          Comment


            #6
            ^^^^^ We had Earl Summerville do our Manicoolers years ago think the place was in Auburn/Kent area. I to would highly recommend having it done. And changing Antifreeze every 2 to 3 years with a heavy duty diesel antifreeze,I use Fleet Guard.
            Brad & Sharon
            Lady Jake
            1985 4550 EH 700TI /Twin Disc 502
            LaConner,Wa. (summer)
            2003 Scout CC 24' W/225 Yamaha
            kailua Kona,Hi (Winter)

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks. Planning to do my first coolant change in a few weeks here and will switch from the green West Marine coolant that previous owner used to the Napa ELC with Earl’s finger on the label. Any tips on how to do a good flush for the changeover?
              Brad
              Lake Union, Seattle
              1987 Bayliner 4550 "Fighting Irish"
              Hino EH700T / MG-502 / Cummins Onan 7kw

              Comment


                #8
                Lots of water and connecting a hose to a heater hose on the starboard and water heater hose on the port. There’s a drain on the manicooler and another on the block near the starter. Mine have drain hoses on them similar to the hose between the overflow container and the manicooler. Dispose of the coolant using a five gallon bucket then pour into the new coolant jugs or one of those winterizing kit jugs. I know some guys who save it to use to winteriizing. I take mine to a hazmat site in Everett, King County probably has some too.
                P/C Pete
                Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
                Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                MMSI 367770440

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hi Brad
                  After draining Antifreeze out of Manicooler ( pit cock) at end of cooler and drain behind starter (14mm) bolt head I then attach my " suck-up" extractor. You would be surprised at how much Antifreeze is left in the block. I think Napa would have a good cleaner/ flush just make sure to get enough for the capacity of your system.....I think it's about 26 qt. Also run it for a weekend so engines get nice and warm then drain and flush again with water.... North Harbor Diesel (360-293-5551) at one time had an outstanding cleaner it was 2 part cleaner/neutralizer. It came out looking NEW.....Are you going to have the Manicooler Ceramic coated first ???
                  Brad & Sharon
                  Lady Jake
                  1985 4550 EH 700TI /Twin Disc 502
                  LaConner,Wa. (summer)
                  2003 Scout CC 24' W/225 Yamaha
                  kailua Kona,Hi (Winter)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Destiny_4588 View Post
                    YES, that is exactly what happened on this engine last year, did the head gasket, injector sleeves, and seals .....fun stuff ;(
                    Mark, who did the work or where did you have it done?
                    Jim Gandee
                    1989 3888
                    Hino 175's
                    Fire Escape
                    [email protected]
                    Alamitos Bay, SoCal

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Riser Greenwater, Manicooler I replaced with what Earl had and he sent to his ceramic person which was a bit of PIA as there were alot of edges we clean and some beads we had to blow out of the manicooler that they left behind...Greenwater person sent us a clean ready to install product when done. Of course manicooler is 3 times size and weight so I guess it makes sense and has alot more openings.. Honestly, I have learned since that there are lot of ceramic shops now in So Calif. Most prefer to with new parts, or very very clean used. Apparently used parts if not well cleaned it will not adhere as well (again what a friend shared that did after I did with his existing parts....
                      Mark
                      USCG OUPV
                      1990 4588
                      Carlsbad, CA

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by brad4550 View Post
                        Hi Brad
                        After draining Antifreeze out of Manicooler ( pit cock) at end of cooler and drain behind starter (14mm) bolt head I then attach my " suck-up" extractor. You would be surprised at how much Antifreeze is left in the block. I think Napa would have a good cleaner/ flush just make sure to get enough for the capacity of your system.....I think it's about 26 qt. Also run it for a weekend so engines get nice and warm then drain and flush again with water.... North Harbor Diesel (360-293-5551) at one time had an outstanding cleaner it was 2 part cleaner/neutralizer. It came out looking NEW.....Are you going to have the Manicooler Ceramic coated first ???
                        Good tip on vacuuming from the block drain.
                        I wasn't going to pull the manicoolers this time around--just the bundles. Lots of competing projects and maintenance to catch up on in order to get this new-to-me boat to a point where I'm not losing sleep while using it this spring. Might see about doing manicoolers down the road. Risers are brand-new in 2020 so I'm hoping the manicoolers were looked at and considered ok at that time.
                        Brad
                        Lake Union, Seattle
                        1987 Bayliner 4550 "Fighting Irish"
                        Hino EH700T / MG-502 / Cummins Onan 7kw

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Brad
                          After you've drained the Antifreeze and before cleaning/flushing,there are 3 inspection plates on the bottom of the Manicooler. Remove the rear plate 4 bolts think it's a 10mm if the PO took care of the cooling system should be little to no residues on plate or inside of cooler..... just a thought....Brad
                          Brad & Sharon
                          Lady Jake
                          1985 4550 EH 700TI /Twin Disc 502
                          LaConner,Wa. (summer)
                          2003 Scout CC 24' W/225 Yamaha
                          kailua Kona,Hi (Winter)

                          Comment


                          • purduepilot
                            purduepilot commented
                            Editing a comment
                            I've been wondering if I should crack those open.......
                            Not sure what I'll do once they're open -- I guess it'll just give me better access for more cleaning of the inside of the manicooler (blast with dock water?) and check for any cracks or corrosion.

                          #14
                          Here's the place for ceramic coatings that most folks use. I've worked with them for years on racing parts. Never had a problem with them.

                          toni

                          https://www.performancecoatings.com/
                          Toni Froehling

                          Yelm, Washington
                          1994 Hino powered 4788

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