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Small crack starting in fly bridge wind screen, can I stop it?

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    Small crack starting in fly bridge wind screen, can I stop it?

    Hi all, I'm attaching a pic of my plastic wind screen. It has recently developed a crack between 2 of the screws that hold it to the boat, right at a corner. I know it will only get worse until it is 2 pieces. Any advice on what might stop this from getting worse? I was thinking Super Glue, but I'm hoping there is a not so obvious option.

    thanks in advance,
    -Dennis Click image for larger version

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    #2
    A typical stop gap would be to drill a hole at the end of the crack to spread the load and stop the crack from running. It sounds odd but it is a "fix" used on all sorts of materials.
    Future 4788 Owner
    Charleston, S.C.

    Comment


      #3
      I agree with Sportscar- The hole can be very small - even a 1/16 or 3/32 drill will work and the hole will hardly be noticeable. The other thing to pay attention to is that when they shrink rap these boats the shrink rap can put undue stress on the wind screen. I have made a wood 2x4 stand that sits on the dash board and extends out past the windscreen so the load is on the wood frame and not the wind screen.
      Gibraltar, Mi.
      1986- 3870- Hino 175's - Just purchased May ,2017
      34' Tollycraft- sold
      88 26' Shamrock/ Diesel
      14' Zodiac Bay Runner

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        #4
        In addition to drilling the hole, which can be as small as 1/64", you can go down to Tap Plastics or similar type store in your area and get an acrylic glue. It isn't really a glue as much as it is a hot liquid that melts the two edges together. This add the strength back into the shield and will prevent dirt from building up in the crack and causing other issues.

        But this only works if the edges are touching together. It is hard to see, but appears that the material has spread apart in the crack. If this is true, try loosening some of the screws holding the screen down to relieve some of that pressure you have there. Otherwise the crack may appear again down the road.
        Patrick and Patti
        4588 Pilothouse 1991
        12ft Endeavor RIB 2013
        M/V "Paloma"
        MMSI # 338142921

        Comment


          #5
          You have to make certain that you find the end of the crack and drill there, otherwise it will continue propagating past the hole. Because it it sometimes hard to see the actual end of a crack on plastic, I recommend a larger hole of 1/4 inch or so. This way you are sure that you drilled out the end of the crack. You can always fill the hole with a bit of epoxy resin.

          Incidentally, you have to be careful when drilling in acrylic, lexan, etc. If you can, buy a drill bit made for plastic: https://www.tapplastics.com/product/...drill_bits/161, https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Plastic.../dp/B0011Z0I82. The tip of these bits is ground differently than a conventional bit. It slowly cuts away the material instead of boring into it.

          If you use a conventional drill bit, set the drill motor to reverse and drill slowly. Drilling in reverse keeps the bit from grabbing and augering into the material. Stop often to blow the chips off and let the bit and material cool down. This will take longer but it will help prevent further cracking. If possible, clamp a piece of wood on the opposite side of the windscreen before drilling.
          1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
          2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
          Anacortes, WA

          Comment


            #6
            If you glue the crack take the windscreen off to do it, gluing it while mounted will glue it to the hull.
            You could also with the proper drill install a screw on each side of the crack.
            I used super glue.
            Last edited by boatworkfl; 06-15-2019, 09:25 AM.
            Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

            Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
            Twin 350 GM power
            Located in Seward, AK
            Retired marine surveyor

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for all the advice! I haven't done anything yet, but I'm thinking about using a soldering iron to melt the hole at the end of the crack rather than drill it. This will eliminate the possibility of the bit catching. But I am going to order the plastic bit, and then add new screws on either side of the crack. I'll let you know how it goes. It will take at least a week for the dril lbit to get here, but I'll probably melt the hole sometime this week.

              Comment


                #8
                I thought I had posted my fix for this problem but I guess not.

                My port side venturi was broke in half at the corner. I glued it a few times with acrylic glue but I would not last. Finally I brought it home and screwed to a piece of plywood to hold it in place. I bought a piece of acrylic and cut out a piece to match the shape of the corner and extending 3" or so on either side of the break. I sanded the areas to bonded and the clamped the piece in place. Acrylic glue will chemically melt the surfaces which provides a really strong bond. You could do the same and it would be much stronger in the end. Cosmetically, it may not be as pretty but you won't have to worry about it cracking further.

                I'll try and remember to take a few pictures when I get back to the boat.
                "Martini's Law"
                1986 Bayliner 3270, 110 Hino's
                Nova Scotia, Canada

                Comment


                  #9
                  Again, not pretty but strong.
                  Click image for larger version

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                  Attached Files
                  "Martini's Law"
                  1986 Bayliner 3270, 110 Hino's
                  Nova Scotia, Canada

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Beefshank View Post
                    Thanks for all the advice! I haven't done anything yet, but I'm thinking about using a soldering iron to melt the hole at the end of the crack rather than drill it. This will eliminate the possibility of the bit catching. But I am going to order the plastic bit, and then add new screws on either side of the crack. I'll let you know how it goes. It will take at least a week for the dril lbit to get here, but I'll probably melt the hole sometime this week.
                    I use super glue,
                    Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                    Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                    Twin 350 GM power
                    Located in Seward, AK
                    Retired marine surveyor

                    Comment

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