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3270 project

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    New shaft seal packing installed. The prop shaft seals were quite crusty and stains on the hull tells me they were starting to leak. The rudder seals were in better shape but since packing is cheap, I opted to replace everything.

    I'll reiterate my amateur status in yachting, but here's here's how I went about it:

    Avoid handing the packing too much, since it smears everywhere. Use an sharp knife to cut to the desired length (use a cutting board), but make the cut on an angle. Some sources state 30 degrees, though I might have gone a little more on some of them. I alternated the joints by 180 degrees to avoid stacking two seams on top of one another. Those who have worked with engine or hydraulic piston rings will understand the reason for stacking split ring seals in an alternating pattern. It may not matter here, but I thought it wouldn't hurt

    The prop shaft packing was three layers, while the rudders were only two. Once they are laid in, I used a pipe to press them radially, then the blunt end of a large socket wrench to cram them axially in. Repeat as necessary until the shaft passes through without snagging the rope core of the packing.

    Packing looks high on the prop shaft, but it all settles once the stuffing box is fully assembled. The trick is to not tighten it until the shaft is fully seated in the coupling, or the packing will snag the on the end of the shaft. The last photo shows the assembled stuffing box with the repaired shaft log.

    Did I miss anything?
    Attached Files


      Outstanding writeup...equally outstanding and professional work. Most would have missed some of those cracks.

      Congrats...job well done...
      1988 3888 "Liberty"
      Twin Cummins 6BT's 210hp
      Onan 8.0
      Boating Raritan Bay


        Nick, I honestly didn't realize how bad the cracking in the shaft log was until pulling the seals completely out. From what I can tell, the log cracks were still fully covered by the hose connection so no leaks were coming in yet.. Given enough time that certainly could have changed.

        Ok, we're stuck on a problem and maybe someone here can help. In our rush to strip things down, I forgot to take photos of the steering gear inside the engine room. Does anyone else out there have photographs showing the arrangement of the tiller arm, bearing and linkage? I may have it figured but I'd like to be sure.

        The lower seal is what bears the brunt of rudder load, but there is an upper bushing that is tied to the transom to help stabilize it laterally. What I can't figure out is, what prevents the shaft from sliding down from gravity. There are some collars that fit the rudder shaft, but I'm trying to figure out if they should rest against the seal, or if they rest against the upper bushing. I'm thinking it should rest against the seal, since the upper bushing doesn't have so much structure to support it.

        This is the older 3270 style, so the rudder shafts come straight up through the top, rear of the prop tunnels. Later 3288s have the angled rudder shafts entering through the transom.


          Rudders are back in.

          Attached Files


            New stainless steel water tank ready to go in. Not Very large capacity, but there will be room for a twin later on.
            Attached Files


              Ladder repairs.

              The sleeve connections at the ladder were corroded pretty badly. A combination of crevice corrosion and possibly ice jacking took its toll on the ones that don't naturally drain. Even before placing the offer for the boat we knew this would have to be addressed. The grab handle itself had become loose at the bottom and could have popped out if someone unknowingly got too excited while climbing to the flybridge.

              These connectors are available at our local marine supplier but the trick is, most of them have to be slipped onto the pipe before bending. So even if I did pay retail for new connectors, I had no easy way to install them.

              Welding was the only real option. At first, I considered just doing away with all the sleeves on the ladder but the rest were still holding fairly well. And in all honesty, I don't want to get too bogged down in these details. Summer's coming, after all. So far, I eliminated the four connectors that attach the hand rail. Two more at the bottom tread will also have to be eliminated.
              Attached Files


                Sweet, refurbishing a 32xx, I'm now subscribed. Keep up the good work and the pics coming, love this kind of stuff
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                The rebuild of my 2556
                Misc. projects thread


                  Thanks Dave, It's not my first build thread but it is my first time doing a boat like this. Usually I'm into automotive projects.

                  Anyway, back to the ladder repairs. While trying to procrastinate about going back into the shop to finish welding the ladder, I discovered a bolt on solution:

                  Click image for larger version

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                  After scrounging the web for a little while, I've been able to find 90 degree fittings on Aliexpress. So far, I'm striking out on the 60 degree fittings. I'll probably finish the last of the ladder repairs by welding anyway but this is still tempting if I ever have to replace the other ones. The cost would add up pretty quick if a guy were to replace all the corroded fittings on the flybridge, but it does make for a fast repair.


                    Kai Nani, Redondo Beach
                    1989 MY 3288
                    Hino 135hp with Hurth 630A Trannies


                      Thanks James. It's rare to see free shipping to Canada, so that website is now in my favorites.

                      The welding is done, and the ladder is reinstalled. Feels nice and solid now! I needed to fabricate a filler section for the bottom of the hand rail. Unfortunately, I didn't have the right diameter pipe, so I had to slit it down first. You can still tell where the splice is, but I'm happy with the result.

                      The only real change I did on the boat was to use nut and bolt for the side brackets of the ladder. There was tension when things went back together and some of the original screw holes were stripped. And unfortunately, I can confirm at least some moisture in the coring. Nothing I can do about that right now.

                      Attached Files