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4788 490 Leak Fix Thread

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  • Sleepwalk
    replied
    Apparently I can not edit. Nothing new in the pic though, it's the last pic from two posts up. The only thing missing in the pic is the gap fill sealant around the sani hose to the radar arch foot. Finally sticking it to this one feels awesome. I think I saw you mention that you're having the issue. Check if you still have your hose in place.

    Leave a comment:


  • Knothome4788
    commented on 's reply
    Problem displaying the photo. Could you edit and try again?

  • Sleepwalk
    replied
    A brief follow up on the radar arch/salon roof leak: the installation of the sani-hose and sealing the area up with resin has cured the problem. After 3 months of rainy winter weather and not having been to the boat due to the virus, we were finally back up to it last week and everything was dry. If you ever have this issue, this should be the first thing you check. It should look like this:



    The other awesome thing after all this was that everything worked flawlessly- radar, radios, nav lights, etc... I was ecstatic!

    Leave a comment:


  • Alan_Teed
    replied
    1994 4788
    Leaks into port valence in galley.

    This is the only leak I ever experienced on my 4788. It stained the valence and came down through the downlights. The solution was surprisingly easy to find. On my boat there is a cabinet to port of the flybridge helm. It houses a redundant VHF and an old stereo radio. This unit was factory installed and the seal between the top back of the cabinet and the side of the boat looked suspect to me. I taped over the entire area during a dry spell with waterproof tape which proved the source. Fixing it was a simple matter of excising the old sikaflex (or whatever Bayliner used) and replacing with 5200. I kept the valence down through several subsequent heavy rain events and hosed the area while washing the boat which proved the solution worked. (I later replaced the valences on the entire boat as I thought the OEM ones were heavy and ugly on the early 4788s). One pic of the replacement valence in this area below:
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Sleepwalk
    replied
    A few more pics of what my remedy for the port valence leak looks like.

    First step was to wire wheel/drum sander the interior of the wireway to reveal good clean wood for the bond (no pics).

    Next, coat (flood) the interior of the arch with resin, including bolt holes and the wireway. Flood it into every pore where you're worried water may ingress and migrate. I built up a small dam with tape and laid the arch down to have the resin accumulate in the corner (which I believe is the origin of the problem):

    Click image for larger version  Name:	GrPOzWixJgbREoWxFXrEVf8jTTtlM2r-r0flO5jrZjZm_tEpiFW5MORV5JF75b2cTcJOwqHW1E9_7zl0soIQSKTotDkCcGtCVRgqLC8wdpHEuHMi5Datrs_XhUT-UA-2sNzH7duNVEyKu6BgLFxWZFxuAciU9vqv3uCOaiLEC0PdMHEGa4Mtf3IY5rVQRUaCM5y6RfwrFST0rgRYdYLs5MMbgjGuAzQowEtYVk-bHNU8Ar0N-eTTbv4q6P7Jcz6 Views:	0 Size:	307.5 KB ID:	560072

    From there, clean any overage and let it cure. Remove tape and any other protective stuff. Re-install the arch:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	EmT1NQsPv8fHWRxewdkpm0S858dnXJ1NWcgloeo2VdZdMQz2k7EyTl7QJOSMJ_bSE7ovkYOaSqCbh6ZupiyCy30fuEq-122aZdgeXJjFiw70_tiyaOjTD6sLmMFQ59DAIt3uMzwo8bguWUM9FOzpn_nq8DI_4KaZ3Ajlw_17a6jKTfRDlz15Mu7pntHxdJZzYqqvciogIh2He5oVbW4GnErwpyoMzp_6ks8UlsgKASTZpIJOdwvKJzkq_N6cYF7 Views:	0 Size:	299.0 KB ID:	560073

    Seal your bolts as well. I also put some extra 5200 in the corner as the resin soaked into the arch and left some low spots which could possibly hold water. I also put some in along the panel gap area at the foot of the arch to fill in that gap as well. I also applied a bead of 5200 around the bolt holes on the arch to gunwale interface so any exterior surface water which infiltrates will get re-directed.

    Last step was to gap fill the void around the sani hose with more sealer (no pics, sorry). This time I used 4000 just to be able to potentially remove the arch again if necessary. Based on the fact that the interior was bone dry when this area was covered with the plastic, I don't anticipate having to go back at it, but time will tell.

    We go back in two weeks and if it's all still bone dry then the reassembly process will begin.

    Chris

    Leave a comment:


  • Knothome4788
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for the suggestion Kevin! Available as a spray and not unduly permanent. Once our mechanic is done and the weather clears I’m going up to attack a number of projects. Good thing I’ve got a big discount Ace Hardware coupon (I know almost every inch of the Anacortes WA Ace store!).

  • ksanders
    replied
    I used boat resin to solve the problem out of frustration a few years ago. Poured in a half gallon per side, no leaks anymore.

    Never getting the arch off though. Never ever. I really do not like the arch on the 4788. I think it’s kinda flimsy. If my arch ever comes off it will be replaced with a aluminum or stainless welded tube unit on fold down hinges.

    Another product that was suggested is any of the rubber in a can leak stopping products.. I think that would work very well!

    Leave a comment:


  • Knothome4788
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for the offer/invitation. Unfortunately I won’t be up this week - waiting for our mechanic to finish up and for a check up on our 50A shore connection. Once that’s done then I’ll be living up there (sorta) while I attack a number of cosmetic projects - two of which I will document for the forum.

  • Sleepwalk
    replied
    Originally posted by Knothome4788 View Post
    has anyone tried using one of the expanding foam products to sort of fill the lower part of that area to effectively block the flow of water?
    I would be wary of it still finding its way through the core wood into the gunwale. I think the best defense is the sani hose 5200'd into the wire hole. I am going to try coating the interior with just resin this week if it's dry enough. Its goal would be directing any water which makes it into the interior of the arch over the core material to the seam and out arch. The interior of the arch is minimally glassed (on mine- must have been a Friday afternoon radar arch), so water has plenty of opportunity to be absorbed on it's voyage to exit the arch. I believe that is the root cause of the issue.

    I'll be at the boat Thu/Fri if you're in the neighborhood (Anacortes Marina).

    Leave a comment:


  • Knothome4788
    replied
    Re the valence leaks and work sealing radar arch related sources - has anyone tried using one of the expanding foam products to sort of fill the lower part of that area to effectively block the flow of water? I’m just thinking out loud in order to avoid having to pull the radar arch since I now have the dreaded port valence leak. I’ll start with the easy stuff like rebedding the drip rails on the salon and the pilothouse but thought I’d ask about foam as a possible alternative.

    Leave a comment:


  • Knothome4788
    commented on 's reply
    Scratch removing the hatch. Probably bedded with 5200. Won’t budge. So next up is figuring out how to disassemble the starboard hanging locker. Sigh.

  • ksanders
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for the photos! That is an excellent write up!

  • Sleepwalk
    replied
    Symptom - More water in the port side salon ceiling valance

    Cause - Water ingress via the wiring passage hole from flybridge gunwale to base of radar arch

    Solution - After much tail chasing and frustration, I was sick of this leak and went all in to correct it. It was pretty sure it was coming in from the foot of the radar arch, with water soaking through the marginally glassed plywood, channeling over to the wire pass, and descending into the gunwale and further into the salon ceiling. I thought I had it sealed up this past fall but upon return to the rainy season, it returned with a vengeance. Upon discovering the latest round of failure, I decided to start from scratch and pulled the radar arch down and the wires back into the flybridge gunwale.

    Leaving the footprint of the arch covered with plastic and the bolt/wire holes taped over, the interior was dry after a month of PNW soaking, confirming my theory that it's coming from that location. I was lucky enough to have someone who worked on these at the Arlington factory come by and I got to pick his brain. He confirmed my suspicions...

    Apparently there is supposed to be a bit of hose sticking up through the deck and into the radar arch which serves to seal the end grain of the gunwale core. This hose should be sealed to the deck hole and extend above the core of the radar arch foot to ensure there is no path to open core material. Mine was missing.

    My first step was to sand and wire-wheel the passage clean. This would give the adhesive something clean to bond with. I cut a length of standard 2" sani-hose about 10" long and scuffed the exterior of it to again encourage the bonding with adhesive. Once everything was suitably scuffed/sanded and cleaned, I put the hose into the hole and went to town with the 5200. A pointer I would offer is to tape up the underside of the hole-to-hose to prevent the 5200 from flowing through the gap. It was winter when I was doing this but if it was summer, I could see it getting runny. I made sure there was enough sealant to maintain a fillet radius around the hose and encourage water to go away.

    Despite raining hard overnight, with just tape over the bolt holes and the upper tube end, the interior of the boat was, again, completely dry in the morning. YAY!!!

    I will clean up the radar arch foot and dowse it with epoxy to seal it up before I reinstall it. I will also add some contour to the top surface to channel any water which may get inside the arch over to the panel gaps and away from the bolt holes or hose passage. A good dose of 5200 when reinstalling the bolts will also be applied.

    Once I have the arch up and re-installed, I will again verify that the leak has been terminated and continue to reassemble the trinkets which had previously lived on the arch. I think this will finally put this issue to bed for me and I can't tell you how excited I am about that!

    Chris

    The flybridge port-side gunwale with the piece of hose installed and the 3 bolt holes taped over:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	GIGpRexsNVvY5Fdq6zIKiSEOpgGUZa3h3CmWlEBjifiw_sOW8gpouNtDGzSiGUr5Ctg1WJdD20aATIyH_O4klGU2Ms49YY-NSh93CKS6rAYvsLvYSvJoEHggX8EHhzAIReE8UqfHNzoHTXvH_7yU7qxIiwG_ZOgp52FSagP60Tom3AIJW0NLydM3FoO5lA4Nuk9X5qN2XF5Uvq4KdAjeJ7TKGPqEcva6BHrW-hzI4X46BikBZZsGBpx0AupsEQM Views:	0 Size:	148.2 KB ID:	558952

    Leave a comment:


  • kspellman02
    commented on 's reply
    I notice the same and Knothome is right...if you run an AC, chances are the condensation drain is there under the step where that pump is. I am fighting the dreaded mid-berth leak right now and will probably be working on sealing the hull under the rub-rail next.

  • Knothome4788
    commented on 's reply
    Or, if you have an AC or reverse heating unit it could be condensate draining from the compressor unit.
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