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    #46
    Water accumulating in the mid bilge after a rain. Also seeing water on the floor of the port side compartment behind the water heater (under the water pump). Also seeing water on the shelf outboard of the port engine.

    Thought it may be the rub rail so recalled that section of rail. I then ran a hose on to the deck drain just aft of the port pilothouse door and saw water streaming into the engine room. Pulled out the panels on the back of the galley cabinets to access the underside of the drain. It was dry. Also no water coming from the T which connects the deck drain from the flybridge to this drain hose. Everything behind that panel was dry! Yet water was definitely leaking somewhere into the engine room.

    No leak at the through-hull connection in the engine room either. So I am having someone come out to the boat to pull the drain hose from the T to the through-hull and replace it with fresh hose. The hose goes behind the fuel tank so it's s bear to access.

    This is the second piece of deck drain hose that I've had to replace this year. Seems that the lifetime of the hose is about 18-20 years after which they get brittle and prone to cracking (and leaking).
    Evan
    2001 Bayliner 4788 "Fifty / Fifty II"
    League City, TX

    Comment


    • egbauman
      egbauman commented
      Editing a comment
      Followup and conclusion... we tore into the galley cabinets and saw another "T" which connects the sink drains to this hose. The hose had come off the "T" but was too brittle to be re-attached. Basically had most of the deck drain water and sink effluent finding its way into the mid bilge via this break in the hose. So we ran a new section of hose from the through-hull to the "T" and reattached with new clamps. Leak solved.

    #47
    When manually engaging my bilge pumps. I often notice that my mid bilge will drain a significant amount of water?

    anybody else notice this problem?

    Regarding leaky port windows (lights) The original owner of my boat removed the factory ports and replaced with fixed window port lights. I do not get fresh air as a result but they do not leak.
    2001 Bayliner 4788, Cummins 370's
    Zodiac Yachtline 380, Yamaha 25hp
    Sanger wakeboard boat
    volunteer CA Delta tour guide

    Comment


    • egbauman
      egbauman commented
      Editing a comment
      Water in the mod bilge can come from many places (see my thread above). When you go into the companionway, do you see signs of water on the floor there? Can you determine which side (port/sb) its coming from? If port side, check the deck drain hose and T connections behind the galley cabinets. Could also be a leaking water heater or water being sprayed from a bad connection at the fresh water pump.

    • Knothome4788
      Knothome4788 commented
      Editing a comment
      Or, if you have an AC or reverse heating unit it could be condensate draining from the compressor unit.

    • kspellman02
      kspellman02 commented
      Editing a comment
      I notice the same and Knothome is right...if you run an AC, chances are the condensation drain is there under the step where that pump is. I am fighting the dreaded mid-berth leak right now and will probably be working on sealing the hull under the rub-rail next.

    #48
    Symptom - More water in the port side salon ceiling valance

    Cause - Water ingress via the wiring passage hole from flybridge gunwale to base of radar arch

    Solution - After much tail chasing and frustration, I was sick of this leak and went all in to correct it. It was pretty sure it was coming in from the foot of the radar arch, with water soaking through the marginally glassed plywood, channeling over to the wire pass, and descending into the gunwale and further into the salon ceiling. I thought I had it sealed up this past fall but upon return to the rainy season, it returned with a vengeance. Upon discovering the latest round of failure, I decided to start from scratch and pulled the radar arch down and the wires back into the flybridge gunwale.

    Leaving the footprint of the arch covered with plastic and the bolt/wire holes taped over, the interior was dry after a month of PNW soaking, confirming my theory that it's coming from that location. I was lucky enough to have someone who worked on these at the Arlington factory come by and I got to pick his brain. He confirmed my suspicions...

    Apparently there is supposed to be a bit of hose sticking up through the deck and into the radar arch which serves to seal the end grain of the gunwale core. This hose should be sealed to the deck hole and extend above the core of the radar arch foot to ensure there is no path to open core material. Mine was missing.

    My first step was to sand and wire-wheel the passage clean. This would give the adhesive something clean to bond with. I cut a length of standard 2" sani-hose about 10" long and scuffed the exterior of it to again encourage the bonding with adhesive. Once everything was suitably scuffed/sanded and cleaned, I put the hose into the hole and went to town with the 5200. A pointer I would offer is to tape up the underside of the hole-to-hose to prevent the 5200 from flowing through the gap. It was winter when I was doing this but if it was summer, I could see it getting runny. I made sure there was enough sealant to maintain a fillet radius around the hose and encourage water to go away.

    Despite raining hard overnight, with just tape over the bolt holes and the upper tube end, the interior of the boat was, again, completely dry in the morning. YAY!!!

    I will clean up the radar arch foot and dowse it with epoxy to seal it up before I reinstall it. I will also add some contour to the top surface to channel any water which may get inside the arch over to the panel gaps and away from the bolt holes or hose passage. A good dose of 5200 when reinstalling the bolts will also be applied.

    Once I have the arch up and re-installed, I will again verify that the leak has been terminated and continue to reassemble the trinkets which had previously lived on the arch. I think this will finally put this issue to bed for me and I can't tell you how excited I am about that!

    Chris

    The flybridge port-side gunwale with the piece of hose installed and the 3 bolt holes taped over:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	GIGpRexsNVvY5Fdq6zIKiSEOpgGUZa3h3CmWlEBjifiw_sOW8gpouNtDGzSiGUr5Ctg1WJdD20aATIyH_O4klGU2Ms49YY-NSh93CKS6rAYvsLvYSvJoEHggX8EHhzAIReE8UqfHNzoHTXvH_7yU7qxIiwG_ZOgp52FSagP60Tom3AIJW0NLydM3FoO5lA4Nuk9X5qN2XF5Uvq4KdAjeJ7TKGPqEcva6BHrW-hzI4X46BikBZZsGBpx0AupsEQM Views:	0 Size:	148.2 KB ID:	558952
    Chris & Bethany
    Sleep Walk - 1999 4788 w/330 Cummins
    New to us in October 2017
    Moored in Anacortes, WA

    Sold: 1994 2855 Rosalita 7.4L B2 2013-2017

    Comment


    • ksanders
      ksanders commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for the photos! That is an excellent write up!

    #49
    Re the valence leaks and work sealing radar arch related sources - has anyone tried using one of the expanding foam products to sort of fill the lower part of that area to effectively block the flow of water? I’m just thinking out loud in order to avoid having to pull the radar arch since I now have the dreaded port valence leak. I’ll start with the easy stuff like rebedding the drip rails on the salon and the pilothouse but thought I’d ask about foam as a possible alternative.
    Patti & Gordon Lewandowski
    Sammamish WA
    1998 4788 (April 2018)
    ”Knot Home”

    Comment


      #50
      Originally posted by Knothome4788 View Post
      has anyone tried using one of the expanding foam products to sort of fill the lower part of that area to effectively block the flow of water?
      I would be wary of it still finding its way through the core wood into the gunwale. I think the best defense is the sani hose 5200'd into the wire hole. I am going to try coating the interior with just resin this week if it's dry enough. Its goal would be directing any water which makes it into the interior of the arch over the core material to the seam and out arch. The interior of the arch is minimally glassed (on mine- must have been a Friday afternoon radar arch), so water has plenty of opportunity to be absorbed on it's voyage to exit the arch. I believe that is the root cause of the issue.

      I'll be at the boat Thu/Fri if you're in the neighborhood (Anacortes Marina).
      Chris & Bethany
      Sleep Walk - 1999 4788 w/330 Cummins
      New to us in October 2017
      Moored in Anacortes, WA

      Sold: 1994 2855 Rosalita 7.4L B2 2013-2017

      Comment


      • Knothome4788
        Knothome4788 commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks for the offer/invitation. Unfortunately I won’t be up this week - waiting for our mechanic to finish up and for a check up on our 50A shore connection. Once that’s done then I’ll be living up there (sorta) while I attack a number of cosmetic projects - two of which I will document for the forum.

      #51
      I used boat resin to solve the problem out of frustration a few years ago. Poured in a half gallon per side, no leaks anymore.

      Never getting the arch off though. Never ever. I really do not like the arch on the 4788. I think it’s kinda flimsy. If my arch ever comes off it will be replaced with a aluminum or stainless welded tube unit on fold down hinges.

      Another product that was suggested is any of the rubber in a can leak stopping products.. I think that would work very well!

      KEVIN SANDERS
      4788 LISAS WAY - SEWARD ALASKA
      where are we right now​​​​​​???​

      https://share.findmespot.com/shared/...j23OquWOj2N3Xe

      Comment


      • Knothome4788
        Knothome4788 commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks for the suggestion Kevin! Available as a spray and not unduly permanent. Once our mechanic is done and the weather clears I’m going up to attack a number of projects. Good thing I’ve got a big discount Ace Hardware coupon (I know almost every inch of the Anacortes WA Ace store!).

      #52
      A few more pics of what my remedy for the port valence leak looks like.

      First step was to wire wheel/drum sander the interior of the wireway to reveal good clean wood for the bond (no pics).

      Next, coat (flood) the interior of the arch with resin, including bolt holes and the wireway. Flood it into every pore where you're worried water may ingress and migrate. I built up a small dam with tape and laid the arch down to have the resin accumulate in the corner (which I believe is the origin of the problem):

      Click image for larger version  Name:	GrPOzWixJgbREoWxFXrEVf8jTTtlM2r-r0flO5jrZjZm_tEpiFW5MORV5JF75b2cTcJOwqHW1E9_7zl0soIQSKTotDkCcGtCVRgqLC8wdpHEuHMi5Datrs_XhUT-UA-2sNzH7duNVEyKu6BgLFxWZFxuAciU9vqv3uCOaiLEC0PdMHEGa4Mtf3IY5rVQRUaCM5y6RfwrFST0rgRYdYLs5MMbgjGuAzQowEtYVk-bHNU8Ar0N-eTTbv4q6P7Jcz6 Views:	0 Size:	307.5 KB ID:	560072

      From there, clean any overage and let it cure. Remove tape and any other protective stuff. Re-install the arch:

      Click image for larger version  Name:	EmT1NQsPv8fHWRxewdkpm0S858dnXJ1NWcgloeo2VdZdMQz2k7EyTl7QJOSMJ_bSE7ovkYOaSqCbh6ZupiyCy30fuEq-122aZdgeXJjFiw70_tiyaOjTD6sLmMFQ59DAIt3uMzwo8bguWUM9FOzpn_nq8DI_4KaZ3Ajlw_17a6jKTfRDlz15Mu7pntHxdJZzYqqvciogIh2He5oVbW4GnErwpyoMzp_6ks8UlsgKASTZpIJOdwvKJzkq_N6cYF7 Views:	0 Size:	299.0 KB ID:	560073

      Seal your bolts as well. I also put some extra 5200 in the corner as the resin soaked into the arch and left some low spots which could possibly hold water. I also put some in along the panel gap area at the foot of the arch to fill in that gap as well. I also applied a bead of 5200 around the bolt holes on the arch to gunwale interface so any exterior surface water which infiltrates will get re-directed.

      Last step was to gap fill the void around the sani hose with more sealer (no pics, sorry). This time I used 4000 just to be able to potentially remove the arch again if necessary. Based on the fact that the interior was bone dry when this area was covered with the plastic, I don't anticipate having to go back at it, but time will tell.

      We go back in two weeks and if it's all still bone dry then the reassembly process will begin.

      Chris
      Chris & Bethany
      Sleep Walk - 1999 4788 w/330 Cummins
      New to us in October 2017
      Moored in Anacortes, WA

      Sold: 1994 2855 Rosalita 7.4L B2 2013-2017

      Comment

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