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Pilot House doors on 4588

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    Pilot House doors on 4588

    The wheels on one of my doors are frozen. I removed the door and took off the bottom section that holds the wheels. They have melted to the frame section. Has anyone replaced them. I bought ne wheels from home depot and dropped them off with a gut that can cut them out and try to make it work however it seems like a timely expensive proposition. Anyone have any simple ideas or is there a piece available that will fit in there? Appreciate any responses and help

    #2
    Unfortunately, there isn't a direct replacement, I had to purchase the new wheels at Lowes in the carriage, then grind down the rivets on the outside to get it fit into the channel and move properly. Takes some time but well worth the effort. We pulled both doors, replace all the wheels and all of the insulation and whisker brushes. A commercial window company will have all the materials you need for most everything except for the D shaped weather stripping that seals the door to the jam. That I ordered from Grainers.
    Patrick and Patti
    4588 Pilothouse 1991
    12ft Endeavor RIB 2013
    M/V "Paloma"
    MMSI # 338142921

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      #3
      Did this years ago but found stainless steel replacements to avoid issues down the road...I think I got them from McMaster carr


      Mark
      USCG OUPV
      1990 4588
      Carlsbad, CA

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        #4
        ditto on the repair- you need to modify generic replacement wheels. I got mine at ACE, and used a grinder to 'thin' down the carriages to fit in the door mount channel... stainless wheels may be a bad idea... they are hard and can cause more track wear... I choose a softer alternative...it should outlive me!
        Ken

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          #5
          Thank You all for the input . Thats kind of what I figured

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            #6
            Here is am older post - pictures were lost at the old site.....
            Bayliner door rollers II

            There are often many questions related to which door rollers to use for the Bayliner sliding doors – either the saloon doors or the Pilothouse doors. We have used various blister pack replacement patio door rollers from stores such as Home Depot, Lowes, Servicestar Hardware and the like under the name of “Primeline”. In every case we are using a 1-1/4” steel wheeled narrow roller but in some cases we just purchased the roller itself and made a new roller ‘axle’ with standard round brass stock and in others we needed to get a new roller ‘carrier’ as well since the original was too corroded for use. In our area ‘Primeline’ packages are not always in stock but we have found that many of their parts use the same roller ‘carrier’ but that is assembled into a larger part for use in various doors.

            For Rollers only – Primeline P/N is D-1502 for 2 ball bearing wheels 1-1/4” diameter in mild steel

            Carriers come many ways – please see store and look at what they have

            One carrier example we have now is – Primeline P/N D-1603 for one assembly that you can easily drill out the pin to reveal a 1-1/4” wheel and wheel carrier that will fit the Bayliner door. Dependent upon what they have in stock others can equally work well).

            The ‘old’ procedure to R & R the Bayliner door rollers follows.



            Bayliner door rollers

            The sliding door hardware on the 38XX, 45XX, and 47XX all seem to be the same from our experience. The side doors on the 45 and 47 are a bit harder to get off and handle - but once removed the procedure is similar.


            class=WordSection2> To remove the side doors put a towel or carpet scrap on the side deck outside and under where the door will ‘fall’. 1st remove the aluminum piece which prevents the door from jumping the track. It is help on by about 5 short phillips screws facing the door on the base track - a stubby phillips will help here. Then remove the screws holding the door track down to the ‘floor’, you will need to move the door to the fully open and closed position to reach all of them. A very long phillips will help here.

            · The door is now free to rotate at the bottom and can be carefully leveraged out away from the boat and onto the side deck carpet scraps allowing the top to swing free of the door guides at the top. It is heavier then it looks.

            · Once removed any door roller is more easily accessed by removing the channel at the base of the door which holds all of the parts. On most boats this will be held on by 2 phillips screws which are screwed into the side of this channel from the inside at each end holding the channel to the door.


            · Once this assembly is in hand attention goes to each end where the door roller ‘holders’ are in place. Each one is attached by two screws about 3" apart at each end. Each screw goes in one side through the roller holder and back out the other into the ‘plastic’ track guide which keeps the door from coming out of the track when in use. Please note that one of these screws goes through the roller assy itself and forms the pivot point for the lower roller assembly adjustment.

            · Before you pry out the wheel assy please note (write down) the ‘height’ of the wheels center groove (forward and aft) above the door base so you have reference to set back the new wheel assy at reassembly time - this will save time later on. When both of these screws are removed you can ‘pry’ out the roller assembly by using a long screwdriver and carefully pivoting the assy out of the track - if there is a bunch of rust this may take a little playing.



            class=WordSection3>
            Fixing rollers–now you have many options - here are 2 of them

            · #1 use the existing roller assy and replace the wheels only.

            · Drill and drive out the old wheel axles retaining them in the assy - do not damage the existing assy. Only drill out the peened flange on the axle so as to allow you to drive it out and remove the old wheel.
            · Use a new wheel primline P/N D-1502 (1-1/4" steel wheel) some of these have a short axle stub in each side and some do not. If it does - pry the wheel into the assy with both axle stubs in the holes, then using a hammer and peening base (we use a sledge on its side) peen over the axles applying your impact only to the axles themselves until they are peened into place. If there is no stub axle in the blister pack you can actually do this easier by utilizing a short length of brass rod from a marine supply store (or Home Depot) making your own short axles - they peen much easier.

            · #2 use a new roller assy primline #D-1603 (1-1/4" steel wheel assy) by drilling out the axle in this blister pack that would normally be the screw location for the assy pivot point - you will now throw away a part of the outer case here. This is quite easy and understandable when you have the old and new assemblies in hand . Two notes here - 1. You may have to ‘squeeze’ and /or ‘hammer’ the closed end of this assy very slightly to gain clearance in the Bayliner door track - this is not so hard to do. 2. For a while you could buy this assy without the outer frame and use it as is – we have not been able to locate that package now for few years.


            Reassembly

            · Pack the new rollers with a suitable water impervious lube so you make this repair last . We use a non-petroleum based water resistant lube called superlube for ths purpose.

            · Take time ‘prying’ and ‘pivoting’ the new wheel assy back in place with one or two screwdrivers until you can get the pivot screw in 1st. You may need to back out the SS hex screw in the end of the channel assy which adjusts the door roller height a bit to do this. After both screws are in but not fully tightened you can reasonably preset the height of the rollers by applying upward pressure to the roller groove while adjusting the height and then tightening the screws - use the previous dimensions written down both for and aft.


            · The rest of this assy is just reversing the disassembly procedures above.
            · Lifting a side door up and back into place is often hard but can be easier with a molding bar (small crowbar) , various cardboard pieces for protection and guidance, and wood spacer blocks being handy at the time. Once the door is up in the track and on the ‘ledge’ adjustments for final installation are easy.

            It may be also be a good time to renew anything related to the doors such as weather seals, tracks, paint, or locks that need attention..
            Many of the fasteners and washers may beg for replacement at this time if they survived the removal.
            Experience has shown that extending the life of these rollers comes from using water resistant lubes as well as rinsing this area with fresh water after any salt water spray.

            Hope this helps.
            Smitty477
            Ron & Karen

            Northport NY

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              #7
              Thanx Smitty

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