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4788 prop shaft question

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    4788 prop shaft question

    Does anyone know the size of socket needed to fit the nut on the coupler end of the propellor shaft?
    With the propellor off, can the coupling and shaft be moved back far enough to get a socket in there or does the motor need to be raised?
    2001 Bayliner 4788
    Underhulls
    Bow & Stern Thrusters
    330 Cummins
    Langley British Columbia

    #2
    I bought a large Crescent type wrench from harbor freight, they have 18" ($19.99) 2 1/8" and 24" ($29.99) 2 1/2" opening.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...AapL9sozECnDOK
    Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

    Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
    Twin 350 GM power
    Located in Seward, AK
    Retired marine surveyor

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by stanfromhell View Post
      Does anyone know the size of socket needed to fit the nut on the coupler end of the propellor shaft?
      With the propellor off, can the coupling and shaft be moved back far enough to get a socket in there or does the motor need to be raised?
      If you are speaking about the coupling near the transmission I believe it is 18mm (from memory please check) . I have removed the 5 bolts with an 18mm stubby wrench on one side (inside) and an open end on the other for reach. If memory serves me well you cannot get a socket or box wrench on the 'larger' outside of the coupling.
      Northport NY

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by boatworkfl View Post
        I bought a large Crescent type wrench from harbor freight, they have 18" ($19.99) 2 1/8" and 24" ($29.99) 2 1/2" opening.

        https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...AapL9sozECnDOK
        The coupling nuts are recessed and a crescent will not work no matter which he is referring to.
        Northport NY

        Comment


          #5
          I was referring to the large nut which is on the treaded end of the prop shaft and which holds the coupling half tight on the shaft. The six bolts holding the coupling half to the output flange are 5/8 NF and 15/16 open end wrenches are the only way to get into the tight space in order to loosen them. (about 1/8 turn at a time.)
          2001 Bayliner 4788
          Underhulls
          Bow & Stern Thrusters
          330 Cummins
          Langley British Columbia

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by stanfromhell View Post
            I was referring to the large nut which is on the treaded end of the prop shaft and which holds the coupling half tight on the shaft. The six bolts holding the coupling half to the output flange are 5/8 NF and 15/16 open end wrenches are the only way to get into the tight space in order to loosen them. (about 1/8 turn at a time.)
            Got it, but if you need a prop nut wrench my suggestion will work, it is what I use.
            Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

            Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
            Twin 350 GM power
            Located in Seward, AK
            Retired marine surveyor

            Comment


              #7
              You need a 1 13/16" short thin wall socket, probably only available in 3/4 drive. The nut is a nylock type. On most boats you can get the nut off without removing the propeller.
              84-38,,86-38,,89-45,,97-47,,99-47,,01-47,,05-540,, 04-411 meridian and 11 others,, all gone ,,now 04 -490 ,,sidney,,vancouver island.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by dyoung View Post
                You need a 1 13/16" short thin wall socket, probably only available in 3/4 drive. The nut is a nylock type. On most boats you can get the nut off without removing the propeller.
                Thanks for the info on the socket size. In the middle of replacing (installing maintenance kit) in the PYI mfg PSS dripless system. Bolts from flange to tranny flange were a pain. But done. Next up removing the shaft flange so the the other stuff could come off and on. A buddy mechanic said to put a puller on the end. He and I didn't know about the nut inside (no jokes please). Several hours later.. reaching inside I realized what was going on.
                That being said, does anyone know if a puller going to be needed to get that flange off once the nut comes off?
                Thanks

                Comment


                  #9
                  A puller is the professional way to remove the coupling.
                  Beating on the flange or the coupling with a hammer may work but is opening the door to doing expensive damage.
                  And you will look like this guy
                  2001 Bayliner 4788
                  Underhulls
                  Bow & Stern Thrusters
                  330 Cummins
                  Langley British Columbia

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If you cannot fit a puller in to remove the coupler, try and use a socket or some kind of block between the 2 flanges and the slowly tighten the bolts.
                    Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                    Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                    Twin 350 GM power
                    Located in Seward, AK
                    Retired marine surveyor

                    Comment

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