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Engine Flush on Hino EH-700

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    Engine Flush on Hino EH-700

    I'm getting ready to change the oil, water strainers, and fuel filters on my 3870 for the first time (for me). The oil is really black and I'm wondering if it is worth looking into running some extra stuff through the crankcase before I change the oil. Has anybody done that sort of thing? I'm thinking like some sort of chemical engine flush that you dump in or even just sacrificing an extra 10 Liters of hot motor oil to try to clean things out a bit better. I have found a thread with some pretty good tips for reducing the mess but if anybody remembers a thread that might be particularly useful for first time maintenance I would appreciate any links.

    #2
    Originally posted by BryGuy View Post
    I'm getting ready to change the oil, water strainers, and fuel filters on my 3870 for the first time (for me). The oil is really black and I'm wondering if it is worth looking into running some extra stuff through the crankcase before I change the oil. Has anybody done that sort of thing? I'm thinking like some sort of chemical engine flush that you dump in or even just sacrificing an extra 10 Liters of hot motor oil to try to clean things out a bit better. I have found a thread with some pretty good tips for reducing the mess but if anybody remembers a thread that might be particularly useful for first time maintenance I would appreciate any links.
    IMHO - do not add any flushing agents to the oil. Do make sure you clean out the centrifuges well and reassemble correctly. Make sure you are removing and adding the correct capacities of a well respected oil brand.
    Northport NY

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      #3
      I guess the other question I have is viscosity. I live in Victoria, BC (relatively cold boating) is 15W40 a reasonable choice?

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        #4
        I change the the oil in my EH700’S every 100 hours or once a year. Oil is always quite dark when it comes out. Filter changed as well as cleaning the centrifuge at the same time. I pulled the valve covers at 1400 hours to do a valve adjustment, engine internals were spotless, valve cover inside was like new. I wouldn’t run anything through the engine if they have been serviced regularly. Pop a valve cover and have a look!

        James
        1989 Bayliner 3888, 175 Hinos,
        Hurth 630's Onan 8kw MDKD
        Lowrance Electronics!
        MMSI
        316030379
        VHF
        CFA 2587
        Boating on Georgian Bay
        Currently on the Great Loop

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          #5
          Two questions:
          1. What sort of oil do you use? I'm thinking 15W40 so far but not sure if that is right.
          2. The Hino Database thread has lots of useful stuff in it but the pictures seem to be gone. Are they gone for good or am I not looking in the right place?

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            #6
            Well I live and boat in SE Alaska year around and I use Delo 400 30wt it's what was in the motor since they were born and what the manuals says to use
            i always let them warm up a bit and they start right up in any temp I have owned the boat for 16 years and not one proublem
            my friend got talk into synsetic 15/30 ams oil in his 45 and used over a gallon in each engine on his trip home from Seattle and it leak all over he switch back to straight 30wt when he returned to
            ketchikan as for my boat I dought I'V used a quart in 16 years both motors have 60 psi at cruise and 20 psi idle at 175 temp
            IM a helicopter mechanic so if it is not broke don't fix it :-))). Think hard what the PO runs in it to date
            cheers
            Roy
            1988 3818
            EH 700
            Custom hard top enclosed

            Comment


              #7
              When changing my oil. I've always used "engine flush" prior to draining the old oil. Pour it in, run the engines up then drain. It loosens up the cr*p before you drain it.
              I did this just before Christmas, and have done about 80hrs since... and the oil has not even turned black yet.
              With the centrifugal filters, I checked mine when I did the oil change (they had not been checked for 3 years) and put them straight back on, as there was nothing of significance to remove.

              Comment


                #8
                Oil choice is a lot like religion. With some folks the belief that they are correct is absolute, others, not so much. For myself, I’m running Delo 15/40 that is Cummins approved as suggested by Earl, the Baylinerguru. If you can find any history of what oil brand has been used, I suggest you stay with that. Like Smitty447 said, use a good brand. Btw, I have the various filter option numbers and a reasonable source if you want to PM me.
                I used an old antifreeze jug opened on the side to let the filter drip into. I found the drain plug in the filter cover after I got it off. Rats!!
                P/C Pete
                Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
                Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
                MMSI 367770440
                1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
                Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

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                  #9
                  I use Delo 15/40. This last oil change I also added CamGuard to the oil. I would not look to internally flush the engine with anything but fresh oil which essentially is a flush.
                  Jim Gandee
                  1989 3888
                  Hino 175's
                  Fire Escape
                  Fyrflyer@ca.rr.com

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                    #10
                    Earl recommends Ames oil as his first choice. Second is the Delo 15/40.
                    Gibraltar, Mi.
                    1986- 3870- Hino 175's - Just purchased May ,2017
                    34' Tollycraft- sold
                    88 26' Shamrock/ Diesel
                    14' Zodiac Bay Runner

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