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Looking for a 3888 3818 3870 and wondering what are the must haves add on items? Hull extension? Underhulls? Hard Chines? Hard top?

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    Looking for a 3888 3818 3870 and wondering what are the must haves add on items? Hull extension? Underhulls? Hard Chines? Hard top?


    Hello everybody:-)

    I'm brand new to BOC but thank you all, for sharing your knowledge and experience. I've learned a lot just reading and reading.

    I do have a question about the 38 boats. I'm about to move from a Carver 32 gas to a Bayliner 38xx with diesel. I've considered the 32xx and think it's a great layout and use of space. It's an amazing boat for the price and size but I think the 38xx is the better direction for my growing family. I anticipate looking over the next year or so for a good clean boat. I'll be looking for a boat that is in good+ condition with a high degree of maint. and care. I'll have a survey and an engine survey/analysis prior to purchase.

    So what do people think I should value more when looking at boats?

    We all want different things based on our location and intended use but the question I have is how to value the expensive add-ons. We live in Portland, Oregon and have a fair amount of boating experience. We currently boat mostly on the Columbia River and love the San Juans and beyond. The boat will live on the Columbia and travel once a year up the outside to the San Juans and with the ultimate goal being Desolation Sound. So seakeeping and efficiency are paramount, and I also know myself, if it's expensive and it doesn't come with the boat, I usually don't upgrade really expensive "want to have" items. I need to get what I need/want when I buy the boat. So what do you guys think are the must-haves?

    1. The Hull extension?
    2. Underhulls (I'm not sure what underhulls refers to exactly but i have an idea that someone here can explain that to me - lol), hard chines, spray rails?
    3. Hard Top with canvas enclosure?
    4. Transom door pass thru (I know this is an issue on the 32xx's but every 38xx i've looked at has had the door. Not sure when that became a standard option on the 38's?
    5. Auto Pilot?
    6. Watermaker?
    6. What other expensive add-ons and why?

    What items are the biggest payoff in the real world?

    Thank you for reading my long-winded question (i'm sure its already been asked but I didn't have much luck searching for this question) and I'd love to hear your opinions.

    #2
    Would be helpful to know where you live, and what are you going to use your boat for.

    For me in the pnw,
    hard top with enclosure $7k, hydronic heating $7k, autopilot $7k, new fridge $3k, 175 Hino’s $priceless!

    engines, transmissions and over all condition are what needs to be looked at. THe other stuff is just a value ad on and a function of price. Ie a boat with autopilot will be and should be worth $7k more, all other things being equal.

    Good luck!
    Craig
    Nanaimo bc
    1987 bayliner 3818
    w/ 175 Hinos no Genny, but solar to run everything!
    10ft Livingston with centre console and 15hp on davits / winch

    Comment


    • zentodd
      zentodd commented
      Editing a comment
      Hi Craig, Thank you for the advice. I did mention I’ll be keeping the boat on the Columbia and traveling to the San Juan islands in the post so I”m a PNWester:-). I need to figure out how to create a signature line with that info. Thanks for the heads up.

    #3
    Zen,
    welcome aboard! First I purchased my 38 in the PNW. I kept it there for a year, did the San Juan’s and Gulf islands then moved it to Portland, Jantzens covered Marina. I’m now in SoCal enjoying the 365 day boating season. The boat came with a hard top, FB canvass, spray rails, diesel heat, auto pilot, radar/plotter, invertor, dink with davit, and a bunch of other really beneficial and nice upgrades. I really appreciate the hard top and enjoy sitting up there on nice days! Ive seen a few 38’s with hull extensions and or hard chines but they are very rare and I wouldn’t hold out for one.
    Considering your mission I’d want a hard top with fly bridge and cockpit enclosure, diesel heat, auto pilot and a good chart plotter with radar. Water makers are very convenient but they are very expensive, read like 10K thus conservation is your friend. When you’re in the SJ’s you’ll need a dink, a good anchor and a spool of 300’ of nylon rope used for stern tying when in coves. My boat has 300’ of chain rode.
    Regarding transom doors I believe all of the 38XX series came with doors. Perhaps a few in the very early production run (early eighties) did not come with a door but all I’ve ever seen had doors.
    I forgot to mention an invertor. Sooo very nice to have when you’re hanging on the hook in a quiet cove. You can watch TV or make a morning cup of coffee without having to light off the genny.
    Good luck in your search!
    Jim Gandee
    1989 3888
    Hino 175's
    Fire Escape
    Fyrflyer@ca.rr.com

    Comment


      #4
      The hull extension is nice but another option is tunnel extensions. What both do is keep the prop thrust in the water longer for more efficiency. The extension isn’t very common and helps bring the bow down as the 38 is a bit stern heavy even without the hardtop extension.
      Underhulls are an add on that square up the chine and I’ve heard help with rolling. They also feature a wedge at the stern to drive the bow down.
      The hardtop is a must have imo enclosed or not. The enclosure is on my list
      Transom door is standard on all 38’s
      Autopilot would be nice, but it’s a bit like cruise control. There was a guy who had his autopilot engaged and decided to use the head. It took longer than expected and he hit a ferry.
      I’m not too sure about a watermaker, adding tankage in the bow will give the extra and bring the bow down
      Updated or update the electronics, a genset in good condition and a 2500+ watt inverter on its own set of batteries, and electric flush fresh water toilets would be the biggest things I would want.


      P/C Pete
      Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
      1988 3818 "GLAUBEN
      Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
      1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
      MMSI 367770440
      1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
      Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

      Comment


        #5
        Autopilot would be nice, but it’s a bit like cruise control.

        Pete, I’ve come to realize the value of an AP especially when operating in the open ocean or large body of water like the Strait of JDF et al where the boat is subject to any significant wave action. Without that AP the driver must continuously hand steer to maintain the desired general heading but also constant correction to prevent the bow from falling off each and every roller. A trip from PDX to SEA without that AP can be so fatiguing it takes much of the enjoyment out of the trip or may even require additional crew. With the AP on the driver is far more relaxed and will have the freedom to divert his attention to other tasks like scanning for traps or other debris, updating weather and sea conditions, coordinating and planning with marinas, etc. IMHO an AP is a true safety and enjoyment enhancer that I would not want to be without. YMMV of course.
        Jim Gandee
        1989 3888
        Hino 175's
        Fire Escape
        Fyrflyer@ca.rr.com

        Comment


          #6
          Please post what davits you decide. I'm still trying to decide what kind of davits

          Comment


            #7
            I’d suggest an autopilot with a wireless remote .... I have a Garmin set up that I control with either my watch (a Quatix 5) or a hand help wireless remote . I thought at first it as a bit of a nmovelty to have a remote,but it’s not...it’s a must... I absolutely love it!!! It makes things so nice, as you can walk around and yet still be in total control of your boat. With either control, you can steer and adjust the autopilot whenever you want, as you need.

            Another thing to consider is when and if you updat yr electronics, I pull strongly suggest running a NMEA2000 backbone through out the boat as you have things (cabinets, seating and such) torn apart. The backbone is basically a small cable that you can hook most any of the newer electronics up to so you don’t have to run new irs every time you add something.ll it makes things really nice for future expansion and cost hardly anything to do...

            BJ
            OMEGA
            5788
            BJ
            OMEGA
            5788

            Comment


              #8
              Jim, I agree about the convenience of an AP, in fact, I want one for fishing. I was cautioning about its’ misuse. There’s alway that half a percent that get too confident.
              I too recommend going to a NEMA 2000 backbone if/when updating the electronics.
              P/C Pete
              Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
              1988 3818 "GLAUBEN
              Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
              1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
              MMSI 367770440
              1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
              Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

              Comment


                #9
                The hull extension is a real plus, keeps the boat flatter in the water all the time, increases efficiency.
                I would suggest a propane stove/oven, diesel heat and a good inverter.
                A hard roof over the cockpit is very nice.
                A solar panel is a major addition to extended cruising, I have a 260w with a MPPT controller and can sit for days at rest.
                Lots of battery (house) 6-6v golf cart, is optimal
                Some kind of chartplotter will help keep the rocks away from the hull.
                Autopilots don't do a very good job of looking for logs etal, so save some money and drive.
                Watermaker??
                Diesel engines .... A must.
                AIS system nice to have.
                LED lighting
                I have the Vacuflush system and once I learned how to maintain it, would never go back to the pumpers.
                If you are into it, the best anchor you can buy... I have the Vulcan and it seems to be very good.
                Bow thruster, use the money you don't spend on auto-pilot and watermaker.



                1988 3870
                Hino 4 cyl 210 turbos (upgrade)
                Hull extension

                Comment


                  #10
                  Hello and thanks again for all the feedback. I was wondering mostly about the hull extension, under hulls and chine mods because I was begining to find myself placing a big value on getting that feature without any real world knowledge about the actual level of benefits. Sounds like those hull mods may be of benefit but other options (hardtop, canvas, heat and auto pilot,etc.) may be of more benefit in the long run.
                  Thanks BJ for the heads up on the NEMA 2000 cable - i’ll make sure that goes in the memory banks.

                  Todd
                  Portland Or
                  Carver 32 - soon to be 38xx

                  Comment


                    #11
                    I’m wondering if dropping the radar arch and trucking the boat from Kelso to Olympia is worth considering against the cost and risk of taking it up the outside. I know when Bayliner shipped them to dealers prior to installing the flybridge, and that would be a bit too much for 60 or 70 miles, but if just the arch can make it workable it’s something to consider. The arch isn’t light, but you may find one that has the arch modified for a boathouse.
                    P/C Pete
                    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN
                    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                    1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
                    MMSI 367770440
                    1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
                    Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

                    Comment


                      #12
                      When we searched for our 38 we wanted either a cockpit hardtop or upper canvas at a minimum. The boat we found in California had the canvas so the first thing we added was the hard top. Took a few years and have since replaced the upper canvas and enclosed the cockpit. Diesel heat is a great addition. I installed a hydronic system and plumbed to the water heater. Although our boat came with a new 5k genny, we now rarely use it as in addition to the heat we also replaced the electric stove with propane.
                      Next purchase will either be the tunnels or extension.
                      Sean
                      1987 3870
                      Crimson Pride II
                      Past Commodore Mukilteo Yacht Club
                      MMSI: 338080226

                      Comment


                        #13
                        1. The Hull extension? - Nice to have
                        2. Underhulls (I'm not sure what underhulls refers to exactly but i have an idea that someone here can explain that to me - lol), hard chines, spray rails? - Nice to have
                        3. Hard Top with canvas enclosure? - Hardtop is a must IMHO, enclosure - meh.
                        4. Transom door pass thru - Standard on the 38
                        5. Auto Pilot - Must if you are going up and around once/year
                        6. Watermaker - Nice but most of where you are describing water is not a problem most of the time if you are responsible with your use.
                        7. What other expensive add-ons and why? Radar/Chartplotter. These can be expensive if you let them but also can be replaced with even the low end new stuff that is way better than the 30ish year old equipment.

                        Make sure the genset works - that is a huge thing to have to fix
                        1989 3888
                        Nobody gets out alive.

                        Comment


                          #14
                          I will have a pair of tunnel extensions in about a week, cold weather has slowed my tunnel fabrication quite a bit.
                          Just finished a pair that I will be sending out in a few days, I have 2 sets molded but they need finishing and gel coat.
                          Tunnels help pick up the stern when running, they will give a speed increase, reports are 1 1/2 to 3 knots faster at the same fast cruise RPM, they also pretty much eliminate the water rooster tail which translates to the forward thrust increase.
                          They also make towing a dingy closer to the stern.
                          I have sold 5 pair so far, much less expensive all things than under hulls. They should add to stability.
                          I will be taking 2 pair to Alaska in mid May, one set for my gas 3870 and a pair for a diesel 3870.
                          I will help install the pair for the diesel boat and photograph the process.
                          They are easy to install, the are molded to fit the tunnel and are 18" long and made of fiberglass so no zincs needed.
                          They fit tight to the tunnel and the inboard edges, they are not contoured to the curve of the hull so about 1/3 of the tunnel on the outboard edges there is a small gap.
                          That gap you only need a few SS fender washers for the space and fill it with 3m 4200.
                          I leave for Alaska mid may and start building a cargo box for my new Sams club trailer on May 1st.
                          I am working on 2 sets that are not committed yet, when finished I will start on my 2 40 gallon fiberglass water tanks for my 3870 the old tank looks more like a strainer.
                          If interested in a pair of tunnels contact me on BOC and I will give you my email and phone number.
                          $750.00 a pair + shipping

                          Pat BOC boatworkfl
                          Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                          Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                          Twin 350 GM power
                          Located in Seward, AK
                          Retired marine surveyor

                          Comment


                            #15
                            Originally posted by zentodd View Post
                            Hello and thanks again for all the feedback. I was wondering mostly about the hull extension, under hulls and chine mods because I was begining to find myself placing a big value on getting that feature without any real world knowledge about the actual level of benefits. Sounds like those hull mods may be of benefit but other options (hardtop, canvas, heat and auto pilot,etc.) may be of more benefit in the long run.
                            Thanks BJ for the heads up on the NEMA 2000 cable - i’ll make sure that goes in the memory banks.

                            Todd
                            Portland Or
                            Carver 32 - soon to be 38xx

                            You’re very welcome. If you have any further questions about it, please don’t hesitate to let me know...

                            ~BJ
                            BJ
                            OMEGA
                            5788

                            Comment

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