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4588: Muir Cougar Windlass solenoid confusion.

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    4588: Muir Cougar Windlass solenoid confusion.

    When I go up to the Muir website and look for the associated solenoid that belongs with the Muir cougar windlass it shows a 3 pole reversing solenoid control box which is rectangular. However when I went down to the boat this weekend, this is what I found for solenoids. Can anyone help me understand what's solenoids I should be buying. The Windlass is clicking right now and it leads me to believe that the solenoids are bad, but looking at this picture I'm not sure what to order for Replacements. Thanks in advance.

    #2
    When I changed to wireless controls I had to replace the factory set-up with a reversing solenoid as the factory set-up achieved reverse through the switches. In other words the factory set-up might differ from what Muir would recommend, especially if you do not have a remote switch elsewhere from the foot switches.
    1989 26' then 1994 32' now 2001 39'

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      #3
      I have footswitches and a control switch in the pilothouse

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        #4
        Hi Jeff
        Another good source for parts,service,Information for MUIR windless is IMTRA.....First make sure the Dogs are NOT engaged on the windless.The problem you mentioned could be several things bad solenoids,foot switches,Motor brushes or jammed a gearbox.The solenoids in your photo appear to be typical car solenoids which can be used,The box you refer to is basically solenoids in a box resined in,Looks like your solenoids are "Colehersee" 750 amp. At any rate its on the tag. Hope this helps Brad
        Brad & Sharon
        Lady Jake
        1985 4550 EH 700TI /Twin Disc 502
        Anacortes/La Conner, Wa.

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          #5
          Here is how two solenoids would wired together with a Single Pole Double Throw switch. You can buy this as a single (original) unit or construct it yourself from two separate solenoids and switch. When operated it applies +12v to the 2 poles of the motor or applies +12v in reversed fashion at the same poles.
          Attached Files
          Retired, computer expert / executive
          Bayliner 285 Cruiser / Mercruiser QSD 4.2L 320 HP Diesel
          Live in the Bay Area, CA, USA, boat in Turkey
          D-Marin @ Turgutreis in Bodrum/Turkey
          [email protected]
          [email protected]

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            #6
            By the way, be careful in the wiring so you do not short the +12v and Gnd lines together when switch is operated.
            Retired, computer expert / executive
            Bayliner 285 Cruiser / Mercruiser QSD 4.2L 320 HP Diesel
            Live in the Bay Area, CA, USA, boat in Turkey
            D-Marin @ Turgutreis in Bodrum/Turkey
            [email protected]
            [email protected]

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              #7
              You have the same thing I put in my 38
              you have a 3 wire Muir meaning one wire is ground , one is pwr up, one is pwr down
              the ground is aways connected,,, than pwr 12vdc is supplied to ether up or down wire
              the way it looks like yours is wired is the foot switch sends 12vdc to motor and your pilot house
              switch controls the the relays that sends pwr to motor via one connection on foot switch
              being neither foot switch or pilot house switch which operates the relays. up or down my bet is the brushes are stuck
              it is a real common problem in these as I have fixed many for hung brushes
              hope this helps
              Roy
              SE Alaska
              1988 3818
              EH 700
              Custom hard top enclosed

              Comment


                #8
                Jeff,
                if both solenoids are clicking I would check for 12 volts at the Motor. If you’re getting voltage then as Roy stated the brushes are probably the problem.
                Gibraltar, Mi.
                1986- 3870- Hino 175's
                1988 26' Shamrock/ Diesel
                14' Zodiac Bay Runner

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                  #9
                  The next time I'm down at the boat, would there be a way to test the connections to see if it' in fact the motor brushes or the solenoid that are the problem?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Looking at your phtos...

                    You have a three wire windlass.

                    The wires are

                    1. Negative
                    2. Up
                    3. Down

                    You have two foot switches

                    1. Up, which activates the UP solenoid, which applies power to the UP lead
                    2. Down which activates the DOWN solenoid, which applies power to the DOWN lead

                    To troubleshoot..

                    First, does the windlass only go in one direction or does it not go at all?
                    This is VERY important because there are NO common parts in the UP and the DOWN circuits.

                    If the windlass will not move in either direction I would check for voltage at the proper lead and if you see that voltage then the problem is in the windlass itself.

                    If the windlass will only go in one direction then figure out which solenoid is not providing the voltage, and if the leads all check out as tight and corrosion free then the problem will be that solenoid.

                    New solenoids are generic and can be found anywhere

                    Here is a 65 amp marine unit

                    https://marine.biglakesupply.com/pro...lenoid-1002205

                    Here is a unit if your circuit breaker for the windlass is more than 65 amps

                    https://marine.biglakesupply.com/pro...4vdc-250a-9012



                    KEVIN SANDERS
                    4788 LISAS WAY - SEWARD ALASKA
                    www.transferswitch4less.com

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                      #11
                      Hey guys,
                      Finally got around to replacing the solenoids for the Muir Cougar windlass. Now, when the windlass control is pushed in the up/down position, the solenoids are actually clicking (which, thank god, is new), but no motor movement. The breaker on the starboard wall next to the AC panel is on...are there any other possible breakers I need to look for, or am I at the point where I need to remove the windlass motor and take it to an alternator shop?

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                        #12
                        This past weekend, my first mate tried the windless but the dogs were engaged and the motor stopped. We could not get the motor to run again after I freed up the dogs so i thought the breaker was tripped. I pushed on the 90 amp windless reset above the battery switches in the engine room but it did not move. I thought maybe the motor was burned out and would need to be removed. Just for the heck of it I tried the breaker reset again and pushed a little harder this time. The button didn't really move but this time I heard a click. I went back to the windless and tried the foot switches again. This time it worked. Maybe you could try giving the reset button a good push.
                        1987 3870 "Stella Maris"
                        Hino 175's
                        Lanoka Harbor, NJ
                        MMSI# 368141940

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                          #13
                          For what it is worth we replaced this breaker to the blue seas style which is much easier to see if tripped and to reset

                          also add a windless on/off breaker in pilot house next to ac panel so it can be reset easier made that breaker a 90 and put 100 in factor location
                          Mark
                          USCG OUPV
                          1990 4588
                          Carlsbad, CA

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                            #14
                            Jeff call Jim Thomas at muir, you can find his number on there web page this guy can talk you threw anything on your windless.
                            1993 43.88 bayliner motoryatch

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                              #15
                              DVF2001...I don't believe I have a 90amp breaker to push and reset...I guess that's part of my question, on the 4588, isn't the only breaker for the windlass that left/right switch next to the stbd pilothouse door?

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