EH 700 Dahl filters

[Sunbird]

I wanted to change the filter elements on the Dahl primary filters that Bayliner installed. One gentlemen told me they were junk filters and I should swap them out with Racors.
Any opinion on this? Seems like they worked fine for 31yrs. If I keep them should install 30 micron elements? They also come in10 and 5 micron.
Any experience or insight is appreciated.

[Pcpete]

I have racors, but what brand is best in someone’s opinion, without hard evidence, is exactly that, an opinion. Another personal preference is what micron level to install. Personally, I like to run 2 micron filters in the racors. Yes, they are going to clog there, but changing that filter is quick and easy and keeps the crap from getting to the engine filters and injectors. Others prefer to do a multi stage filter process with progressive decreases in microns allowed. I don’t know that one approach is more valid than another and the discussion can become as passionate as sports, politics and religion.
Whaever method you choose, I, recommend the smallest micron level available to keep the crap out of the injectors. The longer the boat sits unused, the more likely there fuel can become contaminated, grow algie and other filter clogging stuff.

[brad4550]

Sunbird
our 45 came with Dahl filters,used them for a couple of years then changed to Racors 500.I did this because i could find Racors any ware,now even Walmart has them.I use 2 micron because their easer to change than the engine mounted primary filter......just my 2 cents worth......Good luck Brad

[jmcannonball]

I use 2 micron elements in my Racors also.

[diveguy]

I have the original Dahl filters and they work fine but are a bit of a pain to change. I'm having a problem now of finding less expensive replacements. Wix no longer carries them so I'll need to find another source. I think the ones I use 10 micron.

[Woodsea]

I changed my single stage Racors to a two stage filtration system with vaccuum gages from Sbmar, Tony Athens company. I’m using a 20/30 micron first stage and a 5/10 micron second stage. I’m also using a priming bulb to make priming the filters quick and easy after change out. The on engine is a 10 micron. It’s kind of funny, since installing about 200 hours ago, my vaccuum gages show no clogging at all. That’s a good thing but I was concerned because our boat had sat unused for 5-6 years before we bought it. I wanted to make sure we have a robust system for our upcoming offshore trip to the pnw.

[Timcup]

I am confused. Are the dahl’s the secondary filters on the engine? Ppl replace these with racors?

I agree that you should run 2 micron on the primary and if you do not have these switched over to the 500 series with a vacuum gauge you should. Much easier to change and easy to see when they are getting close.

Challenge will be how bad is the crap in your tanks. I had a brutal experience this past summer. Was in really Rough seas, stirred the crap in my tanks, fouled 2 sets of filters and left me stranded. Had tanks cleaned but they did not do a good job and it happened again.

This is why the racor 500. Easy to change on the fly and most of the crud gets settled in the bottom of the bowl and not in the filter.

Then you wont have to deal with repriming and and bleeding air from the injectors when you change the secondary...Which should be 10 micron.

make sense?

[brad4550]

Hi Craig
Its semantics some call the first filter the primary,some like me the engine mounted one the primary,the reason I do is the engine manual calls it that.

[skye_peak]

If you decide to make a change, I have two brand new racor 900's for sale. $200 each

[capt._ron]

I have the Dahl filters and bought a case of a dozen spares a few years ago. Changing the filter is not as simple as the racor but you clean the sediment bowl when changing filters which I like to do anytime I change them. The manual priming pump fills the filter with a few strokes. I haven't seen a reason to change to the racor, drain the sediment bowl occasionally and no problems.