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4788 Cummins 6BTA Raw Water Pump Replacement - Should I Switch?

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    4788 Cummins 6BTA Raw Water Pump Replacement - Should I Switch?

    Hi All

    My water pump has started leaking on my starboard engine. I bought a rebuild kit, but we didn't have a jack to move the engine, so we rebuilt it in place. That was a waste of money. It still leaks (much less though). I am thinking about swapping out the entire pump to the aftermarket improvement that Tony from Seaboard Marine designed. You can see it here:

    https://www.sbmar.com/product/smx-1730-seawater-pump/

    Have any of you made this swap? Are you pleased? It will mean that I will have two different water pumps until the port side fails.

    I figure they probably fail every 10 - 20 years. So is it worth replacing it, or just getting the engine jacked up and rebuilding? I can certainly see the argument for replacing the starboard engine as getting in there to rebuild is a pain.

    Also, the drip of water out of the leak in the water pump it has some oil in it. Is this something I should worry about? It is leaking in the shaft area of the pump.

    Would appreciate your thoughts, especially if you have converted.

    Thanks
    Jeff

    #2
    Yes, buy thre new pumps. I (and many other) cummins owners have been very happy with them.

    While you are at it, you can and probably should eliminate the fuel cooling hoses that are in the way. For about a hundred bucks the same outfit sells a kit for that.

    Jacking up the engine sounded much scarier than it actually was. I bought the smallest bottle jack I could get at my local NAPA store, and used a couple of pieces of starboard I had laying around the boat to distribute the load, and it was a piece of cake.

    KEVIN SANDERS
    4788 LISAS WAY - SEWARD ALASKA
    www.transferswitch4less.com

    Whats the weather like on our boat
    https://www.weatherlink.com/embeddab...59665f4e4/wide


    Where are we right now? https://maps.findmespot.com/s/36S4

    Comment


      #3
      +1 Kevin said it all. Save the best Sherwood for a spare. The oil leak should disappear with a new pump. A small bottle jack at Harbor Freight is cheap and I keep it on the boat. You might take a 2x6 by about 8 inches and slice it diagonally to provide a level surface for the jack. Jacking is no big deal if done carefully, mark around your mounts so they get put back exactly.
      "Impasse". 2001 3988
      Cummins 330's
      Puget Sound

      "You don't want to be the richest guy in the nursing home..."

      Comment


        #4
        The problem with the Sherwoods is they leak on to the bearing so can seize at the worst time. I changed out mine at 240 hours when the first one showed signs of dripping. I paid a guy $300 to change both. I gave away the Sherwoods.
        1989 26' then 1994 32' now 2001 39'

        Comment


          #5
          Do it. Buy 2. Don't look back. You'll be happy you did.
          Pat
          Paragon
          1999 4788

          Comment


            #6
            Hi Jeff. I have one of each - a Sherwood and a Seamax. I recon'd the old Sherwood for a spare. A while back I had the Seamax pump out and while the impeller looked good, my mechanic insisted we pull it out to check the bearing and 1/2 a circlip fell out. Apparently Seamax had a bad batch of clips that were used. Anyway after that recon, no issues for 4 years and still waiting for the other Sherwood to fail so I can have both the same although I did replace the Sherwood impeller 2 years back. Certainly if one is leaking and has oil with it, replace it NOW. If oil is coming back, water would be going the other way into the oil. A friend missed the tell tale signs and almost lost his engine with the oil turning to cream from the seawater leaking into the engine oil.

            As as far as jacking the engine, do you have a scissor lift jack in one of your cars. That will work if you need with some spreader board underneath on the edge of the block near the mount. You're only talking about support to take the weight, not much lifting involved.

            Have fun! Cheers
            John H
            Brisbane QLD Aust
            "Harbor-nating"

            2000 - 4788/Cummins 370's

            Comment


              #7
              I too changed out both my Sherwood’s with the Sbmar pumps. I recommend removing the isolator and L Bracket as one assembly. All you are trying to do with the jack is take the weight off.
              2000 4788 w Cummins 370's, underhulls, swim step hull extension
              12' Rendova center console with 40HP Yamaha
              MV Kia Orana
              Currently Enjoying the PNW

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Woodsea View Post
                I too changed out both my Sherwood’s with the Sbmar pumps.
                Same here. Did it last year along with new fuel coolers and engine motor mounts. I know some have removed the fuel coolers but I'm in a very warm climate and decided to keep using them.

                Evan
                2001 Bayliner 4788 "Fifty / Fifty II"
                League City, TX

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks guys! I think the Sbmar pumps have it. I am going to place the order. I am torn on the fuel cooler piece. It feels like more than I want to take on at the moment. Did most of you remove it? Tony said the pump will be even easier to access without them. I appreciate all of your input. I was stressing on this decision. I knew I could count on my Bayliner buddies.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Jeff, I've kept my fuel cooler. Having lived in the Bay Area, it can get real hot in your summer boating season compared to say PNW.. I'd be leaving it in place if it were me. Also, remove/unscrew the oil filler cap from the front valve cover, and run your finger around under the rim to see that there is no cream/watery residue there. Just worth checking re your prior comment.

                    Chees
                    John H
                    Brisbane QLD Aust
                    "Harbor-nating"

                    2000 - 4788/Cummins 370's

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by MalNSF View Post
                      Thanks guys! I think the Sbmar pumps have it. I am going to place the order. I am torn on the fuel cooler piece. It feels like more than I want to take on at the moment. Did most of you remove it? Tony said the pump will be even easier to access without them. I appreciate all of your input. I was stressing on this decision. I knew I could count on my Bayliner buddies.
                      You are probably going to have to remove the fuel cooler to change out the pump. It’s literally right in the way.

                      KEVIN SANDERS
                      4788 LISAS WAY - SEWARD ALASKA
                      www.transferswitch4less.com

                      Whats the weather like on our boat
                      https://www.weatherlink.com/embeddab...59665f4e4/wide


                      Where are we right now? https://maps.findmespot.com/s/36S4

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I left my fuel coolers in place when I first changed my pumps out. I did have to disconnect a couple of fuel lines and I was able to wiggle it out. It was much easier once I removed the L bracket the isolator sits on. I lifted up that corner of the engine (using a bottle jack resting on a small 12”x12” piece of plywood) ever so slightly to slide the assembly out. I ended up replacing my fuel coolers a year later. I bought some new take offs from Tony. If you delete the coolers, you will have to get some new hoses for the bypass. That was one of the reasons I left them in place.
                        2000 4788 w Cummins 370's, underhulls, swim step hull extension
                        12' Rendova center console with 40HP Yamaha
                        MV Kia Orana
                        Currently Enjoying the PNW

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I bought the fuel cooler removal kits from Tony. They had everything I needed and more. Saved me a couple trips to the parts store for special fittings.

                          I did not remove the big connection block. I liked how the oil pressure sensor was mounted OEM better than Tonys idea.
                          What I did was to take the return hose that feeds the fuel cooler and connect it to the return hose going to the fuel tank, using the supplied fittings. I do not remember having to do anything with my fuel supply hose.

                          Then I just replaced the cooler and the two large hoses with the one large hose in tonys kit.

                          KEVIN SANDERS
                          4788 LISAS WAY - SEWARD ALASKA
                          www.transferswitch4less.com

                          Whats the weather like on our boat
                          https://www.weatherlink.com/embeddab...59665f4e4/wide


                          Where are we right now? https://maps.findmespot.com/s/36S4

                          Comment


                            #14
                            We are in the process of changing the pumps out now. After the first one, it looks like in the future we will still have to jack the engine up in order to take the new pump off. Is this the same for those of you that changed it already? I thought the point was that you could get to the bolts of this new pump. I guess at least I have new pumps since mine are going on 18 years old now. I think the impellers will be easier to change in the new Seaboard pumps.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Jeff, you should be able to remove the Seaboard pumps in the future without jacking the engine, (Tony says) though it is tight. What you can do, and I got this tip off Tony's Tips, is to shape a stainless spacer/alum about 3"x 2" say 1/2"-5/8" thick to jack out the engine bracket. It'll need a couple of bored holes so the bracket bolts can go thru. I did it on mine and it gives some more wiggle room. I think its still easier to undo 4 bolts of the top flange, undo the bottom hose clips, and the main pump housing bolts, pull it out and change the impeller on the workbench. Have fun.

                              Cheers
                              John H
                              Brisbane QLD Aust
                              "Harbor-nating"

                              2000 - 4788/Cummins 370's

                              Comment

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