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Winterizing for winter use in the PNW-gctid827318

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    Winterizing for winter use in the PNW-gctid827318

    Hi guys!

    This is the first winter we will have owned our 3870 and have it berthed in La Conner, Washington under cover. We are looking for some advice on the best way to keep the interior dry and the systems protected against freezing weather while still being able to use the boat.

    We plan to keep staying onboard on weekends when time allows as well as take it out for day or weekend cruises so running antifreeze (or vodka) through the water lines may not work if we want to have access to the water system. I may be asking too much. .

    Thanks in advance for your sage advice..
    David and Beth
    Seattle Area - Berthed in La Conner

    1986 Bayliner 3870 "Hokey Pokey"

    1995 SeaRay 20 Signature "Flapdoodle"
    1993 Bayliner 3058 "SeaYa"

    #2
    "Snika" post=827318 wrote:
    Hi guys!

    This is the first winter we will have owned our 3870 and have it berthed in La Conner, Washington under cover. We are looking for some advice on the best way to keep the interior dry and the systems protected against freezing weather while still being able to use the boat.

    We plan to keep staying onboard on weekends when time allows as well as take it out for day or weekend cruises so running antifreeze (or vodka) through the water lines may not work if we want to have access to the water system. I may be asking too much. .

    Thanks in advance for your sage advice..
    Since you are in saltwater, and you will likely have a small amount of heat on all the time, you shouldn't need to do much of anything. I lived on a motorsailer in the PNW for almost a year (part of the winter I was at anchor, and part on the dock) and even with 300 gallons of fresh water, nothing froze, even though the decks were covered in snow a few times. My only problem was that I had a Mermaid heat/AC unit in the MSR, and when it was really cold, it wouldn't put out much heat. However, since it ran saltwater through the heat exchanger, it never froze. IMHO, all you need is a little bit of heat to keep the pipes from freezing.
    "B on D C", is a 1989 2459 Trophy Offshore HT, OMC 5.7L, Cobra OD, Yamaha 15hp kicker. Lots of toys! I'm no mechanic, just a blue water sailer and woodworker who loves deep sea fishing.
    MMSI: 367637220
    HAM: KE7TTR
    TDI tech diver
    BoD Puget Sound Anglers North Olympic Peninsula Chapter
    Kevin

    Comment


      #3
      As CptCrunchie mentioned, freezing should not be an issue, with the possible exception of any outside faucets that the boat may have. These are faucets such as a transom/cockpit shower, wet bar, etc.

      My boat is in covered moorage in Anacortes. I keep an oil-filled space heater in the engine compartment to ward off moisture. Note that my boat is diesel-powered. If your boat is gasoline powered, you should only use an approved engine compartment heater. I also leave the built-in electric wall heaters on and set to 55 Degrees F.

      My boat has a transom shower, as well as a small wet bar faucet in the cockpit. I've never winterized them. I actually considered adding shutoff valves to their lines so I could drain the water but leave the rest of the potable water lines as is, but never did it.
      1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
      2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
      Anacortes, WA
      Isla Verde, PR

      Comment


        #4
        Hi David

        We spent many years on "D" dock in La Conner..I put 2 pan cake heaters in engine room on all the time and 2 oil heaters on thermal blocks ( they come on at 38*),turned off water pump and opened all facuets,put a fan on a timer to circulate air 2 to 3 times a day for 1 hr. Each time. Some might think it's over kill...but never any freeze problems or mold issues .

        Good luck Brad
        Brad & Sharon
        Lady Jake
        1985 4550 EH 700TI /Twin Disc 502
        Anacortes/La Conner, Wa.

        Comment


          #5
          In the NW you really need nothing beyond a bit of heat in the bilge more to keep condensation from forming and rusting parts. Inside your boat one smaller heater should be plenty. The real issue is whether your boat can withstand being without power for several days. Should that happen you may want to consider another way to heat your boat. My boat has a diesel furnace. We always planned to go to the boat and just live on it with diesel heat. With that said, we have lost power to our 47 for a week with temps in the mid 20s. The 47 has a roof over it but not a boat house. In checking the bilge and inside temps, it never got below freezing in heads, galley, bar, etc. I did drain the water lines to the back deck shower and bridge bar sink. Make sure to have power draw set such that when the power comes back on your dock breaker does not trip. I have to set my 130 amp inverter charger to 5 amp max so if we lose power we stay under 30 amps total.
          Started boating 1965
          Bayliners owned: 26 Victoria, 28 Bounty, 32, 38, and 47 since 1996

          Comment


            #6
            I'm on the hard at Dagmar's in Everett and my previous boat was water moored at the Port of Everett. There are a few things I do the same, like having some heat going, closing the thru hulls and turning off the potable water pump. Then there are the modified things. I'm limited to 20 amps so I run three King PAW heaters, that replaced the original cabin heaters, that, when all of them are running they take 15 amps. I open the galley floor hatch and set it over the opening sideways so there will be air circulation around the hoses and pumps. Every door and drawer is open just a bit and I've been known to place cushions and mattresses in a way that makes it look like someone "tossed" the place. It's all about a bit of light and circulation. I keep a pancake heater in the engine room that leaves me with just enough power to run the fridge and battery charger. I also have engine room vent covers. I use spent antifreeze in the raw water cooling system, something you will not have to do.

            If you really want to get creative in moving air around, computer fans are an excellent tool. And 12v is a common voltage for a computer fan.

            Using your boat all year is the best thing you can do for it.
            P/C Pete
            Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
            1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
            Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
            MMSI 367770440

            Comment


              #7
              In the water in Bellingham. I have froze the anchor washdown faucet...Once.. I now drain all the fresh water lines and water heater when I see a cold spell coming. I hook up compressed air where the pump connects to the water system and systematically purge the water lines, water heater manually. I don't use antifreeze and I don't keep heat on. I do wet vac the shower sumps and the bilge pump sumps and close the seacocks.

              I pack pool 'noodles' into the engine room vents to keep a strong cross breeze from making it colder that it needs to be inside the hull.

              I do put one DryZAir in the guest cabin. I leave the side windows barely cracked to keep air moving.

              Other than the wash-down, I've not had an issue at all. It takes me a few minutes to 'undo' anything and I do go for a spin as weather permits.

              Wickus smells very nice year round
              Tally and Vicki
              "Wickus" Meridian 341
              MMSI 338014939

              Comment


                #8
                Slight thread hijack. Do I need to do anything to the 50hp Honda outboard on the flybridge. I assume it drains any water out of it naturally. But curious if there are any additional steps to take.
                BLOG ABOUT MY BOAT... www.seattleboater.com
                5788 Man 610's- Love Her !
                Sold:Bayliner 3587 | Extended Hull

                Comment


                  #9
                  "simbad" post=827350 wrote:
                  Slight thread hijack. Do I need to do anything to the 50hp Honda outboard on the flybridge. I assume it drains any water out of it naturally. But curious if there are any additional steps to take.
                  Make sure that it is vertical or close to vertical. If it is tilted out water can pool inside the lower drive and freeze.
                  1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
                  2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
                  Anacortes, WA
                  Isla Verde, PR

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You should keep some heat going in the laz and engine room areas. I had a issue with the starboard muffler floor leaking due to a freeze. The mufflers hold about 5gal of water and if it gets really cold the water can freeze and cause issues. I use 400 watt pali heaters. One in the laz and one in the engine room. Plus I have wolverine block heaters for each engine. For the cabin I keep the heater thermostats at 35 degrees and pour RV antifreeze down the drains. I also pour RV antifreeze in the drains for the Laz if it will be in the low 20s for longer than a week.
                    Guntar
                    1999 3988
                    Cummins 270s

                    Comment


                      #11
                      We keep our boat, covered dock, Lake Washington.

                      I keep 2 dehumidifiers running in the cabin. These give off just enough heat. I also put a DampRid bucket in the head and one in the cedar hanging lockers.

                      I pour RV antifreeze down all my outside drains as a precaution.

                      I close all my seacocks when away. This is also a good "best practice" even in summer months.

                      I also turn off all unnecessary breakers so if power is lost the batteries will not be drained as quickly.

                      I bring my garden hose home and remove all the liquid soaps and cleaners from topside.

                      Heat in the bilge is supplied by a ignition protected heater. Even with a closed loop system I have one.

                      Hope this helps.
                      Phil, Vicky, Ashleigh & Sydney
                      1998 3055 Ciera
                      (yes, a 1998)
                      Previous boat: 1993 3055
                      Dream boat: 70' Azimut or Astondoa 72
                      Sea Doo XP
                      Sea Doo GTI SE
                      Life is short. Boats are cool.
                      The family that plays together stays together.
                      Vice Commodore: Bellevue Yacht Club

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I use a regular plug in home type dehumidfier set to 45 percent. Mine has a drain hose attachment, and I set it on the counter for the winter.

                        KEVIN SANDERS
                        4788 LISAS WAY - SEWARD ALASKA
                        www.transferswitch4less.com

                        Whats the weather like on our boat
                        https://www.weatherlink.com/embeddab...59665f4e4/wide


                        Where are we right now? https://maps.findmespot.com/s/36S4

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Same for me on the dehumidifier. I think it's all you need the boat is warmer and there's is no damp at all and it drains away. Right now mine is down in the hallway between staterooms. I might add one more for salon.
                          BLOG ABOUT MY BOAT... www.seattleboater.com
                          5788 Man 610's- Love Her !
                          Sold:Bayliner 3587 | Extended Hull

                          Comment


                            #14
                            With mufflers I cap the exhaust end with a plumbers rubber cap and a hose clamp, then drain the mufflers with the drain screw at the lower end, if no screw then drill and tap one and use a screw with a rubber washer to seal it up in the spring. I leave the screw out during the winter.

                            A 5 gallon bucket or 3 with damp rid in a strainer works well to control moisture.

                            Damp rid can be purchased in a larger bulk bag.
                            Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                            Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                            Twin 350 GM power
                            Located in Seward, AK
                            Retired marine surveyor

                            Comment


                              #15
                              My boat is kept overwinter in the water in Gig Harbor. I have experienced several freeze failures and have learned from that experience. Here are the areas that froze resulting in needing to replace water lines:

                              Under galley sink. Water supply line at connection to Icemaker. Aft Cockpit shower wand.

                              As a result of these failures and in addition to a pancake heater in engine room and one adjacent to domestic water pumps, I now add pancake heaters and take the following precautions in the following areas:

                              Pancake heater on galley floor (I leave sink cupboard doors open)

                              Pancake heater on each head floor (I leave sink cupboards open)

                              Remove aft cockpit shower wand from its hose and store.

                              Shut off water supply to icemaker and drain (I added a stopcock to that water line when replacing the icemaker this year).

                              Hope this helps.

                              Alan.
                              Alan Teed
                              MOONSHADOW
                              1996 Wendon Sky Lounge 72'
                              Gig Harbor, WA
                              Previously:
                              1994 Bayliner 4788
                              2006 Hylas 49' SY
                              Bayliner 2855
                              1977 Cal 34' SY
                              1981 Hunter 33' SY

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