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38xx radar arch...repair or replace?

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    38xx radar arch...repair or replace?

    So, I'm spotting some soft wood in the radar arch of my 1989 3818. I can probably get a few more good years out of it, but eventually...

    - What's the best decision...repair or replace with an aluminum arch?

    - How much does that fiberglass and wood arch weigh? Is it doable to take it off yourself, or is this something that I need a boatyard to do safely?

    - I know there's an aluminum replacement arch that would fit (Uni-arch)...it weighs 125lbs, I suspect that's less than the fiberglass/wood arch. That UNI-arch is reasonably priced (around $1300)...I doubt repairing the fiberglass/wood arch could be done for that (unless I could do it myself...that's prob too big of a project for me to tackle though).

    - Any aluminum hard-top frames that are in the same ballpark price-wise and weight-wise? It might make sense to replace the arch and bimini with a hardtop.

    TIA!

    Dave
    Last edited by Jim_Gandee; 02-11-2018, 09:55 AM.

    #2
    Hey Dave!

    Glad you're enjoying your boat. I did find rot in mine too, but other than I can shake it a tad it's a "nothing burger" I'll end up removing it when we go to the aft deck hardtop ( arch is too low to walk under). On my boat the only thing on the arch is an old radar, anchor light and the gps puck. So I don't think it's necessary for me. I like the idea of the hardtop over the flybridge, but I can only do one at a time... I'll buy the aft deck hardtop, but I'll fabricate something with solar for the bridge.. That's my plan, but the arches are fixable and with a couple of guys you can remove it. I've also seen some extended to be able to walk under, but it' makes it a little tall the way it looks.
    1985 3870 175hp Hino's

    Comment


      #3
      Dave,

      I just pulled the vinyl off mine across the top- ( I have not removed the side panels yet )

      The wood at the front & back on the horizontal section is rotten. I plan to remove the old wood and glass in new. Should not be that difficult. Did you find rot down at the bottom where the arch is mounted?

      Mike
      Gibraltar, Mi.
      1986- 3870- Hino 175's - Just purchased May ,2017
      34' Tollycraft- sold
      88 26' Shamrock/ Diesel
      14' Zodiac Bay Runner

      Comment


        #4
        The east coast and Florida should have salvage yards for boats, they should have an aluminum arch that would fit.

        I visited one yard in Jacksonville FL a few years ago and they has over 40 different arches of different sizes.
        Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

        Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
        Twin 350 GM power
        Located in Seward, AK
        Retired marine surveyor

        Comment


          #5
          Actually, not a bad idea on checking salvage yards for aluminum arches.

          How much does the stock fiberglass/wood radar arch weigh? Anyone know? I'm guessing at least 200-300 lbs...

          Cheers,

          Dave

          Comment


            #6
            I can barely lower the arch after un-bolted, if wet then heavier. 2 person job to be safe.
            Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

            Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
            Twin 350 GM power
            Located in Seward, AK
            Retired marine surveyor

            Comment


              #7
              There are a number of posts of rebuilding the arch. It's not difficult but takes time. The aluminum arch would be the way to go if you can afford to replace the fly bridge enclosure.

              Here is my rebuild

              http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/in...-part-1#539618
              "Martini's Law"
              1986 Bayliner 3270, 110 Hino's
              Nova Scotia, Canada

              Comment


                #8
                [quote]"boatworkfl" post=825793 wrote:
                I can barely lower the arch after un-bolted, if wet then heavier. 2 person job to be safe.[/quote

                +1 on two man job.

                I have a customer with a 1991 3888 who wants me to use Rot-Fix to firm up the wood in the lower section of the arch where it bolts to the fly bridge. He says he has had good success with the product on other projects. The process involves using a length of something like brazing rod or coat hanger wire to make a long bit to go from about the top of the seat backs to within a couple of inches of the bottom, and sides. Then pour the catalyzed resin via a funnel into where all of the drilled hole come together into a larger hole. He says to seal the edges with duct seal putty to keep it from making a mess. I will let everyone know how it turns out when I get to that task. The upper part of the arch really doesn't need wood in it unless you are planning to put a lot of weight up there. You can through bolt with a backer block to mount antennae and such, instead of screws into the wood (possibly the main reason the wood is there to start with). I pulled the rotted wood out of my arch on a 3270. I have SS fender washers on either end of the trough bolts to hold the arch on. So far it is holding very well. I have had it in some fairly rough water with no problems. There is just the stock radome and a couple of 8 foot antennae up there.

                After seeing Trevor's rebuild I imagine I will do the same at some point in time. But for the time being, the through bolts are working. Nor as pleasing to the eye as Trevor's work.

                Greg
                Newport, Oregon
                South Beach Marina
                1986 3270 with twin 110 HP Hino diesels. Name of boat "Mr. Darcy"
                Past work history: Prototyping, tooling, and repair for Reinell,. General fiberglass boat repair starting in 1976.
                Also worked as heavy equipment mechanic, and machinery mechanic for over 30 years.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Run away from that Idea for a repair!

                  It will not be sufficient for the issue!
                  Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                  Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                  Twin 350 GM power
                  Located in Seward, AK
                  Retired marine surveyor

                  Comment


                    #10
                    "boatworkfl" post=825818 wrote:
                    Run away from that Idea for a repair!

                    It will not be sufficient for the issue!
                    I can't say I am thrilled with it, but it is being adamantly directed by the owner of the boat. I tried to talk him into removing the arch and doing it differently but he won't have it.

                    If it works, great. If not, it wasn't my idea. Just relayed the idea as something of interest. As was said the through bolts to secure the arch are not meant to be a forever fix either. Just wanted to be able to use the boat until have time and money to do like Trevor did. By the way, nice job on that Trevor!

                    Greg
                    Newport, Oregon
                    South Beach Marina
                    1986 3270 with twin 110 HP Hino diesels. Name of boat "Mr. Darcy"
                    Past work history: Prototyping, tooling, and repair for Reinell,. General fiberglass boat repair starting in 1976.
                    Also worked as heavy equipment mechanic, and machinery mechanic for over 30 years.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Seal the bolt holes to prevent water migration.
                      Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                      Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                      Twin 350 GM power
                      Located in Seward, AK
                      Retired marine surveyor

                      Comment


                        #12
                        That's a good reason for repair if the enclosure needs to be changed. Could add some cost unless canvas work is your specialty.
                        1985 3870 175hp Hino's

                        Comment


                          #13
                          After removing and repairing the arch on my 3888 I can tell you it takes at least two strong guy to R&R. The repair itself involves a lot of work and in hindsight, if an aluminum arch was available for $1500 I'd jump at that!
                          Jim Gandee
                          1989 3888
                          Hino 175's
                          Fire Escape
                          Fyrflyer@ca.rr.com

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I have a 3888, 1993 with a bad arch. I can move it up and down about 10 inches. I've ordered a new hardtop and arch from Atlantic Towers. The whole thing weighs only 200 pounds. Should have it in a couple of weeks. I'll post pictures of the replacement process and the finished job.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I need a little guidance in determining if my original radar arch needs repair or replacement. The boat is an '86 3870 and I estimate that it has spent about the last half of it's life under cover, which has been a real benefit for the general condition.

                              There are no obvious areas of the radar arch that look like a problem but I'm not certain I know what I'm looking for. There are no dead areas when I tap the arch and I can push it up a little, which might indicate that the attachment fasteners are loose.

                              I would really appreciate some insight into the best way to assess this.

                              Thank you.
                              David and Beth
                              Seattle Area - Berthed in La Conner

                              1986 Bayliner 3870 "Hokey Pokey"

                              1995 SeaRay 20 Signature "Flapdoodle"
                              1993 Bayliner 3058 "SeaYa"

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