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    stuck seacock levers-gctid823866

    I decided it was time to check my strainers for debris. So, first thing to do is turn off inlet water by closing seacocks.

    Good plan. They won't budge. So, realizing that they are below water level, I decide that beating on them probably isn't a good idea.

    So, I'm here looking for good ideas. I'm sure some of us here have been through this.
    Maple Bay Yacht Club
    1990 3288 "Allure" w/150 hino x 2
    2004 Campion 622 fish killing machine "Knucklebuster", 150 yammy 4 stroke

    #2
    I'm dealing with the same issue. Search this site for a post by "vinomaker" aka Jerome, who serviced his seacocks (I believe they are Perko) with rebuild kits.

    The boat has to be out of the water (as you noted). He said that once he had the right size socket and prybar the fittings removed easily and he replaced the guts with new parts and they work great. He said replacing the entire seacocks would have been much more expensive.

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      #3
      Someone started a similar thread a few months ago.....here was my response

      One of the main engine intake seacocks was stuck open when I bought my 3988.

      I used some silicon lube spray on it, then used a pipe over the handle for more leverage, and very gently applied some force in pulses until it came free and closed.

      I now open and close it regularly to prevent it from seizing up like that again.

      Greg
      1999 Bayliner 3988
      Twin Cummins 6BTA 270hp
      Malaspina Strait, BC

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        #4
        If your worried about the valve snapping off at the hull and you've got a pipe wrench put the pipe wrench around the bottom of the valve as if you are about to tighten it and for leverage or back pressure, slip a small diameter pipe over the valve handle as someone else suggested..
        Dan
        Frostbite Falls, Minnesota
        Claudia V. III
        1988 - 3218
        Gas Drives

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          #5
          That 's why we closed all 5 of our seacocks whenever we leave the boat.

          Comment


            #6
            Knucklebustr, the repair kits from Perko should fix the issue. I've attached a pic of the kit for a 4788 (2" I believe). There will be a casting number on the seacock. Use that number as reference on the Perko website to get the correct size for your craft. I bought both ball and spindle kits as I was dealing with a leaking spindle. I ended up just changing that out (vs the ball) - the old spindle cleaned up pretty well and I now have a spare. Changing the spindle is best done while out of the water, and I bought both kits as you don't know what you need till you get at it and if you're in the slings or on the hard waiting for other parts, its problematic. If you're changing the ball, you have to be out of the water.

            But if it's locked up, it'll be the ball/rings. Vinomaker changed his ball/rings :sick: out and he hired an oversize truck socket (can't remember the exact size) to remove the top half of the seacock. Search for that thread. I'd try to support the base from hull movement too when you are cranking on the top nut fitting. You'll probably need to replace the hose to the strainer as well. Sacrificing that (cutting it to get it off both ends) is the only way as they seem to glue themselves to the brass fittings.

            Have fun!!! Cheers


            John H
            Brisbane QLD Aust
            "Harbor-nating"

            2000 - 4788/Cummins 370's

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              #7
              I randomly ran across this video a while back, and thought it was an interesting solution to the problem of replacing underwater seacocks without hauling out the boat. Of course it'll only work if there's no blockage.

              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-P49Y-o6Y8
              1994 2556, 350 MAG MPI Horizon, Bravo 2

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                #8
                Try loosening the nut that holds the lever on just a little, tapping gently with a brass, or hardwood mallet on the body of the valve while working the lever back and forth. A old marine mechanic suggested this method as an effective method he had used many times through the past few decades. It took about two hours but it did finally work free. It saved having to haul the boat or hire a diver. Of course as previously mentioned by Johnny Vintage, closing them when you leave the boat is a good idea. Just another way to "exercise" the valve to prevent getting stuck in the first place.

                Greg
                Newport, Oregon
                South Beach Marina
                1986 3270 with twin 110 HP Hino diesels. Name of boat "Mr. Darcy"
                Past work history: Prototyping, tooling, and repair for Reinell,. General fiberglass boat repair starting in 1976.
                Also worked as heavy equipment mechanic, and machinery mechanic for over 30 years.

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                  #9
                  Most of the time it's growth thats is keeping the ball from moving. I find using something to pad your hand (glove or rag) when trying to move the lever helps. If you do need extra leverage go easy and just move it back a forth a bit at at time. Don't just reef on it.

                  I try to work them open and closed several times a year and I always close them when leaving the boat for an extended period.

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