Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

3270 Ignition switch-gctid822687

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    3270 Ignition switch-gctid822687

    One of my ignition switches not working on fly bridge, just a bit of clicking won't crank engine. No issues starting with the cabin keys, new fully charged batteries. Anyone with any experience with replacing these? Can they be cleaned? I suppose it could be the wiring going to fly bridge.
    1987 3270 135-Hino
    Foxtrap, Newfoundland

    #2
    Most likely dirty contacts. A little work with some sandpaper may do the trick then cover the connections with dielectric grease to slow any more corrosion. They are easy to replace. I like to get the new switches as a matched pair at a minimum. Remove the nut on the top of the dash and slide the whole thing out, change the wires from the old one to the new one and put the new one in the dash.
    P/C Pete
    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
    MMSI 367770440

    Comment


      #3
      I have cleaned the contacts on the FB ignition switches twice so far on my '84 3270 with success. All the ignition switches on this boat are keyed the same and I wanted to avoid a locksmith. A quick word of caution when the switch won't hold the starter in continuously there is the likelihood of breaking a tooth off the starter gear, as I did, or the flywheel. Anyway, they are not too difficult to fix but first check the connections on the back for corrosion and the crimp on the three wires. B,I, and S.

      My original switches came apart by carefully straightening the small tabs on the back. It's spring loaded so mark the position of the back in relation to the housing beforehand. The internal parts are slotted and fit over two pieces of metal connected to the key mechanism. Carefully note and mark their positions as well. As you disassemble the layers, you will see the contacts that need cleaning. When reassembling but before putting the back on, slip a stiff wire or paper clip through the two small holes in the switch housing and on top of the stack to keep all the spring loaded parts in place while securing the back on by bending the tabs back in place. Large pliers worked well for me. Test with an ohm meter if possible before declaring success. My last repair required some soldering on the rivet connections on the back of the switch.

      It might be easier to buy a new switch. ;-)

      Comment

      Working...
      X