EH700 175hp raw water impeller replacement...Kashiyama pump

[Smitty]

My impellers were last changed 4 years and 530 hours ago. (BTW, the old impeller still looked great)

I have always hired a mechanic to do the replacement for me. This time I thought I would do the job myself. So, this morning I went to the boat and replaced the starboard impeller without too much problem. On my 3870 access to the starboard pump is easy.....but when I now look at the Port pump., if I lay between the engine and batteries I can reach in to the pump with one hand...I'm not sure I can do it myself.

Those of you who do this on your own....what suggestions do you have, how do you manage to do it?

Thanks for your suggestions

[Pcpete]

Our resident expert, Earl "The Bayliner Guru", suggested, when I asked, that I lay between the motors and loosen the bolts underneath then you can lift the pump to a place you can get at it.....or so he said. I haven't tried it yet. Some here have said they remove the hose connections to get the pump to an even easier place to take apart.

[MacPhid]

I lay on top of the port motor from between the engines and reach under the mount with a wrench to loosen the 4 mounting bolts. I then loosen the tension on the belt and remove it. I then remove completely the 4 mounting bolts and lift the pump out and take it to my workbench to overhaul.

James

[brad4550]

I have the same problem....I remove the 4 bolts,tension bolt, also the 2 bolts that are on the metal elbow (exit of raw water) ,leaving main ( long section) of raw water hose attached the one from sea strainer then you swing it over between the engines for repair ......Good luck Brad

[Guest]

Dang it...in the fall, I'm going to give a serious look at fabricating some sort of bracket that will raise the seawater pump a couple of inches so we can change our impellers without having to disassemble the whole darned thing! This should be a 15 minute per engine task, rather than a whole day of gruntin', sweatin', and cussin'! :P

Cheers,

Dave

[smitty477]

EH700 raw water pump, impellers, how to change, and tips....

http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/forum/motoryachts/80971-globe-845-run-dry-impeller-for-hino-eh-700-s-raw-water-pumps-bad-bad-bad

[tangaroa]

Did the site lose a lot of old posts? I’m trying to follow the link above but it doesn’t work. Can someone please point me in the right direction? Thanks

[Pcpete]

There was a change in providers a few years ago and a lot of history was lost, especially pictures. The information is coming back as other members go through the same challenges.

[RDOIII]

I have found like one other poster that lying on top of the port engine and reaching down to the pump works reasonably well. The one thing I would recommend is to find something to lay over the top of the engine to minimize being stuck with sharp protrusions from the engine. I use a plastic cover from a storage box.

[tangaroa]

Any tips on how I’m supposed to be able to release the 4 bolts from underneath? There’s no way to get anywhere underneath the engine, there’s no gap between the bilge bulkheads and the bottom of the engine for a 170lb guy to crawl under and there’s no room to swing any kind of wrench from the side. Am I missing something obvious?

[Jmason]

Maybe a 105 pound flexible Non-binary slender individual of any non-identified ethnic persuasion.
But it begs the question as always: what the hell were they thinking of?

[Ark Angel]

ok dad

[MacPhid]

As I replied in the original thread, the straboard engine is easy, I use a flexhead boxend ratcheting wrench to loosen the 4 mounting bolts. Once loose enough to adjust belts, I loosen the belt and then remove. That gives me enough room to remove the 4 bolts from the front side. For the port engine, I put a mat or yoga style pad on top of the engine. Standing in between the engines I lay over the forward end of the port engine and I can get the box end wrench underneath from the front end between the belt. Once the belt is out of the way it's a lot easier to remove the mount bolts. I remove the pumps once a year to check the impellers and bearings during winterization.

James

[Sunbird]

I had a design in mind that would raise the pump enough to remove the impeller. However before I could build a prototype I spoke with Earl. He said it’s common for the pulley to loosen up on the pump shaft. If this happens the shaft will be destroyed. For this reason he said it’s best to remove the pump and check the pulley nut for tension. He recommended installing a lock washer behing the pulley nut.
I’m not sure if all the 38’s were built to exact dimensions in regards to the battery box, but I lay on top of mine and can get to the bolts necessary to remove the pump. It’s always a little difficult but as another member stated a smaller person can do this easier. A mechanically inclined 10 year old would be perfect.

[PortHoleDiver]

I have to lay on top of the battery box and use a short stubby wrench to remove the bolts on the port side. I then remove the belt and remove the pump completley to get the plate off. I almost can't fit under the battery switch panel but I had to cut the wrench to be able to get the bolts loose. Bad design all around.

[Pcpete]

Charles, I removed the battery panel mounting screws and trimmed the zip ties holding the cables up previously, so now I back the screws out and disconnect a Velcro strap and lay the battery panel on top of the port engine. I’m going to replace the screws with studs that I can slide the panel on to then lock in place with nuts.

[tangaroa]

Job done!
So it took me approx 9 hours to remove it. 10 minutes to fit the impeller, 10 to cut a gasket (why, oh why didn’t I use the first one I made to create a few spares?) and no more than 20 minutes to refit.
The tool of choice to remove the 4 bolts was a stubby adjustable wrench. I simply didn’t have a 14mm wrench that was small enough to use. Once I was able to remove the rearmost port side bolt holding the pump to the engine block then I could access the screw that was holding all of the high voltage cables bunched together and firmly in the way of access to the others. What kind of evil do you have to be to hide a screw down there?
I’m pretty sure I could get the removal process down to 20 minutes next time.
Thanks as always to the community.

[Jim_Gandee]

Good job!