4788 Master Stateroom Hatch Arm Separated From Window-gctid398332

[MalNSF]

Hi All

Has anyone else had this happen? It looks like the locks/standing arms on the forward hatches are just glued to the window. Ours just fell off this week. I tried contact cement to put it back onto the window, but that didn't hold. Any thoughts on the best way to reseal the arm to the hatch window so it doesn't look bad from the top? I was thinking maybe 5200, but that would show through the window part.

Thanks

Jeff

Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/702019=29477-IMG_0041.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/702019=29478-IMG_0042.jpg[/img]

[dyoung]

i had this happen on my 99-47,,i used pvc pipe cement to glue it back together about 6 years ago,,it's still holding..

[egbauman]

MalNSF wrote:
Hi All

Has anyone else had this happen? It looks like the locks/standing arms on the forward hatches are just glued to the window. Ours just fell off this week. I tried contact cement to put it back onto the window, but that didn't hold. Any thoughts on the best way to reseal the arm to the hatch window so it doesn't look bad from the top? I was thinking maybe 5200, but that would show through the window part.

Thanks

Jeff

I think I have the same hatch on my 4087. It hasn't unglued from the window but the twisty thing that is supposed to lock the hatch when closed has gone wobbly and thus the hatch does not seal all that tight. It doesn't leak since the bow cushion is connected to the outside and is heavy enough to keep the window closed. But in a high wind with spray over the bow - watch out!

Interested to know if anyone has replaced this hatch and what they used. Were you able to find a hatch that has the same groove thingy that connects to the bow sunpad?

Thanks.

[Guest]

MalNSF wrote:
Hi All

Has anyone else had this happen? It looks like the locks/standing arms on the forward hatches are just glued to the window. Ours just fell off this week. I tried contact cement to put it back onto the window, but that didn't hold. Any thoughts on the best way to reseal the arm to the hatch window so it doesn't look bad from the top? I was thinking maybe 5200, but that would show through the window part.

Thanks

Jeff

Jeff,

clean both surface's & use a thin amount of marine silicon glue, duct tape it & let set for 48hrs +, do not use pvc glue or any solvent glue ....

[WhiteRockMike]

I used a two-part epoxy glue and it has held strong for six years and counting.

[jas0381]

Me too. No real good answer. Hope someone has an idea.

[Guest]

I have had to use the 2 part epoxy 2 X, in 4 yr on the same support arm. Not a big job. The rest have held so far. Now I need to get the 6yr use out of the repair I did.

[WhiteRockMike]

I cleaned a lightly sanded both surfaces. I used a fairly thin application of the epoxy glue and clamped it tight until it hardened. I'm also fairly careful not to over torque the locking handles.

[Pacrimrat]

My 1995 has machine screws through the handle and plexiglass.

Are your hatches made by Bomar?

[Papa_Charlie]

You can give Bomar a call and have them send you the right glue to do the job.

Or you can use one of those glue kits for glueing a rear view mirror back onto the windshield. It generally requires a special type of glue to adhere these and enable it to withstand the vigors of use. Most automotive parts houses carry these, not hard to find.

[MalNSF]

Thanks for the great advice everyone. Sounds like a common problem. It is fixed now!

[MalNSF]

I spoke too soon. I tried a marine Epoxy and it worked for about a week and then it just came off. The epoxy did not adhere to the window portion. When they separated the window was clean as could be. Then I tried 5200 and that didn't work either - ist wouldn't cure.

I called Bomar and they put me in touch with their hatch Guru. He explained that this failure is usually caused by cleaning over the years. Using windex or ammonia based cleaners seeps in there and breaks down the bond. They don't actually use glue. The lever is sonic welded to the hatch. He also said that none of the three products I tried should work.

Bob's advice was three fold. The best advice is to buy a new hatch. Aside from that, he recommended I try to tracking down Plexus adhesive. It is made to work with composites. The window is acrylic. The black lever is PP that is glass filled. He was very kind and helpful.

I spoke with Plexus and they are recommending the MA300 or MA310. They are basically the same product with different cure times. The sales guy at Plexus recommended the 300 series. I just spoke with the tech guy and he said the problem is the PP material on the lock. That is very hard to bond to.

If any of you that have had it stick for 6 years have the specific product name you used, please let us know. For those without this problem, watch out for ammonia based cleaners.

Kind Regards,

Jeff

PS: PapaCharlie, he was intrigued by the idea of the rearview mirror kit. He hadn't heard of anyone that tried that before but thought it might work since glass is harder to bond to than acrylic.

[WhiteRockMike]

MalNSF wrote:
If any of you that have had it stick for 6 years have the specific product name you used, please let us know.

In doing a little more research it was actually Marine Tex epoxy that I used that has lasted so far for six years. Note that surface prep (cleaning and sanding) and clamping may have played a significant role in the good bond.

Thanks for the tip about ammonia based cleaners.

[MalNSF]

THanks Mike

I found Plexus and it looks like it may work. I also bought some MarineTex just in case.

Jeff