4788 New Nose (Pulpit Removal)

[Knot_Happy]

I restored the photos for this post on 5/28/2018 that were lost during the last forum website update.



Well I haven't been online for awhile, but I have been busy.

For those not familiar with the 4788 it is 54ft from swim step end to pulpit end. Even though my marina and many other marinas allow extending into the fairway they typically only allow a few ft and then will charge the greater of the boat OAL or the slip length. Due to being 54 ft I have had to take a 60ft slip adding about $3000 per year in moorage cost. The pulpit extends past the bow 4ft and is a target for reduction of OAL. See attached photo of OEM configuration.

I did some research as to what the point of having the pulpit is and what I found is it is a preference and has no real significance. It may provide a little clearance between the bow and anchor when stowed, however many high end boats have nothing more than a short roller extension and a scuff plate on the bow and the 4788 bow has a nice angle on the keel line that provides plenty of clearance for the anchor when the pulpit is removed.

I will add few self replies here to share my solution.

[Knot_Happy]

While I found some far simpler designs being an engineer requires that you make things far more complex than needed (Humor)

Seriously though, after looking at several 4788 modifications, looking at some online anchor roller designs and considering the anchor I have, I decided to create a rocker launching system. This actually swings the anchor forward as it comes over the bow and keeps it away from the bow. It also makes the launch very smooth.

Several people indicated they had a tough time getting the pulpit off. I came prepared to spend a full day with an assortment of tools, however mine came off fairly easy. I tied it to the rail to prevent it from falling, used a few thin wedges to start it to lift and then used an automotive front suspension pickle fork as a drift to pop it lose. I had it off in less than 30 minutes.

It did peel up a small amount of gel coat and a little fiberglass from under the pulpit. I ground it down and glassed over the surface and old hawes pipe hole. then refinished the surface.

Description of the design:

The rollers are standard trailer keel rollers and I used a trailer Vee block as a cradle for the final stow position.

I made the deck-plate, channel and rocker from 3/16 inch 306 (correction I used 316 stainless) stainless. I had the profiles laser cut at Tacoma Steel.

The plates had to be polished, I used a power buffer, heavy Scotchbrite, a heavy rubbing compound and then a fine polish to get a nice finish.

I then had the channel sides welded to the plate.

Roller and rocker axles and spacers are also stainless and had to be turned on a lathe. (I have a small machine shop, however this can be done at any small machine shop)

The assembly can be seen in the attached photos.

Design update: after a little use I determined the channel sides were to flexible for my intentions. I added gussets down the outside of each channel side that extend almost to the pivot axle for the launch rollers.

Attached files

[Knot_Happy]

End results and critique.

My total cost for this was about $2000. I make that back in moorage in my first year (I am now able to fit into a 50ft slip at much lower cost per month) and while the reduced cost is nice, my real motive was I want to move my Boat to Port Orchard in a 52 ft covered slip and they have a no extension into the fairway policy.

My final length is exactly - to the inch - 51 ft. if you look at the clearance to the bow in the photo you might be able to get another 6 inch off, however I am satisfied at 51ft.

Note the Windlass is moved back just behind the new roller system and mounted to the deck. The chain locker is large enough that this works just fine, I used two aluminum channels under the deck in the rode locker as reinforcement to the windlass.

A critical part of the low cost of this is the railings, I was able to fabricate the entire modified railing from the original rails. Careful measure and careful cut with a sharp pipe cutter. A short piece of 7/8 railing (2 inches long) is press fit into each of the splices ( no welding required ). You need to clean the inside diameter of the 1 inch railing well. I used a Dremel tool to get the burr off, then as needed a Dremel grinding stone to smooth out any seam in the ID and I did sand down slightly on the 7/8 dia splice fittings. You want these to be press fit so don't over do this.

I decided to put the bow light on a pedestal. I considered putting navigation lights on the pilot house sides ( a common solution ), however I like the way it fills in the front of the railings. I also moved the spot light to the pilot house roof.

This arrangement works extremely well, the anchor is also much easier to clean when it comes up muddy and I personally find it more attractive.


Attached files

[aspen1880]

nicely done and gr8 pics too.

[Jeffw]

Outstanding work!

[cosmo777]

Nice.

BTW, I would love to hand over $3000 per year in moorage for a 60ft slip.

That's about what it runs fro 3 months where I'm at.

[igiftmon]

I love what you did with your pulpit... and especially love what you said about being an engineer and making it far more complex than it has to be... I TOTALLY agree...

~BJ

[Pacrimrat]

Knot Happy, Please check your PM.

[higgins_jr]

Nice work Knot Happy! The only query I have is the new placement of the windlass and wonder why you moved it backwards? It looks like it's secured directly to the deck correct? If so is there a steel plate underneath the deck? I'm concerned that if there is a scenario where an anchor snags something or trying to winch out of a grounding, the deck is not that strong and some pressure could rip the windlass clean out. I've been in a squall that we weren't fully prepared with no bridle/snubber, and the pressure ripped out the locking pawl.

Cheers

[Norton_Rider]

Nice job!

Watch the 306 stainless with the salt water spray, as it is not as corrosion resistant as 316. A few years ago I had a radar mast made from 306 and was constantly cleaning it to remove surface corrosion from salt spray. I finally got tired of doing this so I primed it and painted it white.

[Johnny_Vintage]

It for sure should have been made out of type 316 stainless steel (and I think that's actually want you meant,) welded and then pickled and passivated. It will rust at the welds. Welding 316 stainless reduces the chromium content in the welded areas.

[Jim_Gandee]

Great job!

[SprinterX]

Nice work. I prefer the aesthetics of the "no pulpit" look.

[Simonsen]

It looks nice and thanks for all the pictures!

What size Ultra is that? I have a 77lb one. I haven't used it yet but it's sure pretty

Personally, I like the look of a pulpit (I know I'm not in the norm...hence the "personally" party but I certainly understand the functionality of what you did. Standing on the pulpit emulating the scene from Titanic never gets old....

Derek

[WhiteRockMike]

It looks great - good job!!

Further to John Higgins' sage comments on a backing plate for the windlass mount, you might also want to check letting the anchor out in deep (60+ feet) water as it looks like the angle from the top of the gypsy to the top rocker roller might be a little less than original? The original windlass/anchor geometry/angle didn't allow enough anchor to gypsy contact and in deep water the anchor chain tended to skip and jump off the gypsy (especially if the gypsy had some wear) creating a potential run-away of chain and anchor. To combat this scary scenario many people installed a spacer to raise their windlass and increase the chain angle to the roller. I have seen spacers made out of starboard, aluminum and SS with heights from 3 to 6+ inches.