3818 gauges questions...removal and model #(39)s?-gctid809166

[Guest]

Hey guys...I was digging under the flybridge helm station last weekend, and trying to get a peek at part #'s on the temperature gauge and the tachometer. I couldn't see a part # on either, but it looks like they sit in some sort of cradle. I also took the faceplate loose on the helm station to try to more easily look at the back of the gauges, but the wiring won't let it rotate forward very much. I tried to see some way to simply pop the temperature gauge out, but I think I may have broken it the rest of the way (got the faceplate off, but pulled the needle off at well...I managed to get it back together, but I'm not sure it's registering at all now).

Q: How the heck to the gauges come out??? I'm sure there's screws or small bolts somewhere, but visibility is limited (my vision has it's limits as well!), and I have no experience removing/reinstalling these kinds of gauges....any hints on this appreciated.

Here are what the gauges on my 1989 3818 look like...temperature gauge:




And here's what the tach looks like:




I'm sure someone has replaced these gauges before on their 38xx...I believe they are both made by Faria (?) and rebranded US Marine. Does anyone happen to have any part numbers handy?

TIA!

Dave

[Pcpete]

Part numbers are optional on these gauges. The should be held in place with a U shaped bracket that mounts to a couple of studs on the gauge and pushes against the bottom of the panel effectively pulling the gauge into position. Faria is the correct brand and, from what I understand, wires right up without modification. That part is unconfirmed as I haven't started replacing my Star Wars gauges as yet. Finding a style that has a 0-4000 diesel tach that I like is slowing me down.

[Guest]

Thanks for the reply. Part # optional, eh? So, does that mean that essentially any Faria temp gauge will fit, wire up, and work correctly?

There seems to be quite a few that show up, and most seem to match the temperature range of the original: http://greatlakesskipper.com/catalog...ure+gauge&cat=

Looking at the back of this one, this looks like what I saw...4 wires going to it, 3 of them on a plastic piece that seemed to be bolted onto it, then the 4th one on a spade connected near the top of the gauge. http://greatlakesskipper.com/bayline...t-gauge-gp7147

So, PCPete, if I understood you correctly...there are nuts/etc on the back of the bottom three that hold the gauge in? So, once those are loosened, it pulls out from the front of the instrument panel?

Thanks!

Dave

[Pcpete]

The major difference is the gauge face. If you want to do a whole group, like the whole flybridge, I have a friend at Fisheries Supply in Seattle that can order any of the Faria gauges, not just what's on their website. They are also a great source for the Jabsco version of the raw water pump for your hinos.

Yeah, take the nuts off and either the plastic wire holder will have legs on it out there will be a bracket back there. Look at picture number three of twelve on the link, it should look similar to that strap and you can see the edge of the bracket on other pictures on that page.

https://picclick.com/AquaMeter-Speed...224596637.html

You may find that the bezel squares out as part of the gauge and the actual hole is round.

[Guest]

So, I took the generator's temperature gauge out (the wiring for that panel has plenty of slack, and I could actually *see* the back of the gauge to figure out how it comes out), and moved that upstairs...exact same gauge, and it seems to register correctly. Since we rarely use the generator, I'd rather have the working gauge on the engines. Here's pic of the gauge back, with the Faria part# (which kinda doesn't seem to really be a part#, as Pete mentioned...LOL).




The back says "Faria CS0263 A". If you seach this, there seem to be lots of different styles with that number, so maybe it's a type number instead of an actual part#. Regardless, I don't believe the square-bezeled gauges are available any more, so I've ordered a similar but round-bezeled Faria gauge to replace the one I robbed from the generator console. Actually, I may just replace those 3 generator gauges so they match, and keep the square-bezeled oil pressure and volt gauges as spares for upstairs. All three gauges have the plastic connector with the bottom three wires that plug onto the studs, and a 4th single wire with a female spade connector.

Here's what I ordered as a replacement for the one I moved from the generator panel: https://greatlakesskipper.com/baylin...t-gauge-gp7147

Removal and re-install:

To help someone in the future with removal...of the three studs along the bottom, you have to wiggle the 3 wire connector off the 3 studs, which exposes a small nut on the left stud and right stud (same size as the small nuts holding the gauge itself together in the pic). Unscrew those two small nuts, and the gauge separates from the plastic cradle...gauge comes out the front, plastic cradle is on the back. To re-install, just do the opposite...hold the plastic cradle in place on the back side, slide the gauge's studs into the cradle's holes from the front side, put the nuts back on, and tighten enough to clamp the cradle and gauge together on the panel. Push the 3 wire connector back on, push the single wire spade connector back on, and you're good to go.

I don't actually know what the black knob with "10" on it does, so I didn't mess with it. If anyone can enlighten me on what that does, I'd appreciate it!

Dave

[LTCret]

On my 1988 the black knob was the light for the gauge. Turn about a quarter turn and the light assembly comes out.

Happy Boating

[Guest]

I upgraded all my gauges. I know Rendezvous isn't as big but, What an Improvement.


Dash panel - www.decorativeplasticsheets.com/

Switches - newwiremarine.com/

Gauges - www.boatersland.com/


Attached files

[Guest]

"LTCret" post=810172 wrote:
On my 1988 the black knob was the light for the gauge. Turn about a quarter turn and the light assembly comes out.

Happy Boating

Ah, that's how you change the light bulb in the gauge! I should have guessed...thanks! I'll bet that also means that one stand-alone wire with the spade connector is power for the gauge light (which would allow you to switch the gauge light off and on independent of power going to the rest of the gauge).

Cheers,

Dave

[Sunnydude]

I replaced my tachs on the flybridge with ISSPRO like these: http://isspro.mybigcommerce.com/r8597/

They were recommended by the guys at North Harbor Diesel. I did have a square mounting plate made by SomeSailer that fit perfectly until I get new dash panels made up.

Just wanted to share another option.

[HughfromOz]

They would look good Sean, how about a picture

[Sunnydude]

Here is a picture of the tachs installed:


Attached files

[Pcpete]

P/C Sean, did those tachs connect to the original wiring without modification?

[ctbarbarian]

Best guess, I have a 1988 3818 Bayliner

What would the cost be to replace all the gauges on the fly bridge with new modern stuff ? best guess

Would you need to replace the helm gauges too ?

[Pcpete]

I've been researching the same thing and it's kind of like buying a car. It depends on what you want. The first challenge I had was finding tachs that work with the Hinos. I'd love to have digital tachs but the cost of four of them is an attention getter. So then it gets to who makes a reasonably accurate analog with a gauge face that I like. Once I have the tach covered, the rest of a set is easy to price out.

I like the Faria Kronos faces for the lower helm but they don't make that in gauge in one that will work with the Hino sending system. My plan for the upper helm is somewhere above utilitarian but way less than a custom panel.

One of the temp gauges at the lower helm is getting stupid, so I'm planning on using the temp gauge from the generator and replace that set in a gauge face that I will use for all of the lower helm.

[Guest]

"Pcpete" post=812308 wrote:


One of the temp gauges at the lower helm is getting stupid, so I'm planning on using the temp gauge from the generator and replace that set in a gauge face that I will use for all of the lower helm.

Pete, I did the same thing (except with a stupid temp gauge on the flybridge)...I figure replaced the genset gauges eventually, then use those barely aged working gauges as spares.

Question: How do you know or determine which tachometers will work with the Hino EH700's? I'm at a bit of a loss on that question...is it any diesel tach, or some specific type? I'm after simple to install and reasonably accurate...don't need anything fancy.

I'd be perfectly happy with a set of these (matches the temp gauge I just replaced for the generator), although I have no idea how to set the # of teeth knob. Would these work with the Hino's? https://greatlakesskipper.com/faria-...chometer-gauge

Cheers,

Dave