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Tips for easy oil change on EH700 Hino (220hp)?-gctid807948

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    Tips for easy oil change on EH700 Hino (220hp)?-gctid807948

    Hi all- long time no post!

    I've usually had a mechanic friend do my oil changes but he sadly passed away not long ago. Time for me to do it on my own. Canister filter sure looks to be a pain!

    I thought I'd see if anyone has any tips/tricks/suggestions they've learned to make the process as painless and mess-free as possible.

    I've got a oil extraction pump attached to a 5 gallon bucket so I'm good on that and have built the fittings to attach to the drain line coming off the pan....
    ~~1987 Bayliner 4550 Pilothouse & 17' Boston Whaler Dauntless~~

    #2
    I buy disposable bread pans that fit the canister filter to contain the oil when changing it. Keeps the clean up to a minimum.
    Sean
    1987 3870
    Crimson Pride II
    Past Commodore Mukilteo Yacht Club
    MMSI: 338080226

    Comment


      #3
      I use a 1 galloon coolant bottle lay it on on side, put the cape on the end, cut open the top side. This fits nicely under the filter, has plenty of room to catch all the oil and then you remove cap to pour into our oil discard bucket (bottle neck acts like a funnel
      Mark
      USCG OUPV
      1990 4588
      Carlsbad, CA

      Comment


        #4
        the bread pan and coolant bottle are both great ideas! Thanks!
        ~~1987 Bayliner 4550 Pilothouse & 17' Boston Whaler Dauntless~~

        Comment


          #5
          Also, remember to clean the centrifugal oil filter (small canister that is vertical above the horizontal Oil Filter canister. Just pop open spring clam, wiggle top loose and then the assembly in there that you can lift out into a small plastic food storage contain (it has oil in it when you open the thumb screw on top). Just wipe out with some shop towel the black build up on the inside groves and put back together.)
          Mark
          USCG OUPV
          1990 4588
          Carlsbad, CA

          Comment


            #6
            Drain the filter canister into your pan before you remove the cannister completely.

            Have a few rags for drips, I use a metal cookie sheet to lay the parts on while I work.

            The same vacuum sucker I use to pull the engine oil I use to vac the oil from the drip pans before I try to pull the pan from under the filter mount-no spills.

            I use a plastic picnic knife to remove the carbon from the centrifugal filter. Be sure to lineup the arrows on the centrifugal filter-that is the balance point.

            The job is not a big deal except on a 38-crawling under the starboard exhaust is fun, once in there is plenty of room.

            Comment


              #7
              "Any suggestions on changing oil in the EH700? Best pump to use? Draining filter housing?"

              I use a Jabsco vane puppy for pulling out oil and trans fluids.

              Tips:

              - warm oil

              - let sit for 30 minutes before removing lube oil with drain hose on engine

              - put absorbent pads under filters intending to get nothing on them but just in case

              - Then use a small tin pie pan under the filer housing

              - Open the downward facing small drain bolt near the back of the filter and let drain into the pan

              - when draining suck up the oil with the vane puppy pump

              - Hopefully you have new "O" ring for drain bolt and filter housing but if not be careful with them

              - replace drain bolt with new "O" ring

              - Have a larger zip lock bag ready , begin to loosen large housing bolt but not enough to leak

              - Cut small opening at high end of zip lock bag and slip over hosing

              - Slip bag over housing , hold end up tight away from bolt above lip, place the other small cut around the bolt head

              - Using the opening finish loosening the large bolt, do not let oil slip past lip , keep open end up higher than the middle

              - drop filter housing with bolt, washer, filter element ., spring and gasket into bag , remove to waiting pail

              - Anything that drips down will end up back in that tin pie pan for removal

              - Clean filter housing, bolt and make sure old gasket is retrieved and discarded

              - Place new filter in housing with correct orientation , replace bolt and spring and rubber gasket,lightly coat gasket with oil

              - Replace filter housing back on engine with drain bolt facing down and retighten

              - Remove snap ring on centrifuge oil filter (COF) , be carful not to damage "O" ring inside

              - Remove COF cover

              - remove top knurled retaining nut for centrifuge (note left hand threads)

              - Take the spinning 'can' assy off the top of the shaft

              - Note the arrow and mark on the 'can' cover and top before disassembly

              - remove knurled nut and take apart 'can' taking note of parts and their orientation

              - Clean all parts in suitable solvent till clean then dry

              - "Tip" use a plastic knife to get heavy loads of built up carbon crud off the inside face of the 'can'

              - Reassemble in opposite order , make sure you line up the arrow and line on the 'can' cover.

              - Fill cranckcase with oil

              - Depress stop switch and turn engine over with key for 15 seconds (no more)

              - Wait a minute

              - Redo the above step (15 seconds) until the oil pressure buzzer goes off and the gage shows something

              - Start engine without the stop switch depressed, should start within 1 second now

              - Let run for a few minutes before shutting down and rechecking for any leaks

              - Wait a good 15-20 minutes before checking the oil dipsticks

              - This may be a good time to consider marking the sticks

              Hope this helps
              Northport NY

              Comment


                #8
                I do it in 2 phases, once the oil is drained out of the main engine I pour one of the gallon jugs into the engine, recap the container, turn it in its side and cut a hole about 3' by 4". I then slide it under the engine and up to the drain on the canister, open the drain and let it drain over night. The next day I remove the canister and the jug lifts out easily. The canister is almost oil free, still need a few paper towels to soak up drips.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks all- really appreciate everyone's posts!
                  ~~1987 Bayliner 4550 Pilothouse & 17' Boston Whaler Dauntless~~

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I hated dealing with the oil changes on my 4588, as every time I did it, the next morning I'd be covered in bruises from draping across the starboard engine to get to the filter.... as such, when I upgraded to Omega, I found the changes much easier, but then discovered Reverso oil change systems. I wish I had installed one on my 4588. It would've made things a lot easier...maybe it's something that could help...

                    ~BJ

                    OMEGA

                    5788
                    BJ
                    OMEGA
                    5788

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The bread pan idea worked great! I tried cutting an empty coolant bottle but too big to fit in such a tight space as mine with the sea strainer right next to the filter. But the bread pan worked great, particularly having my electric oil pump hose right there to suck up the oil...without it I would have had a major mess! But- not a single drop spilled doing the port engine today. Having to wait for a filter to arrive at the shop tomorrow morning so we will see how much fun I have doing the starboard engine!!!!! Talk about a terrible location for a filter on the starboard engine!
                      ~~1987 Bayliner 4550 Pilothouse & 17' Boston Whaler Dauntless~~

                      Comment


                        #12
                        smart that started on the port side as that is easier one....hanging upside down on starboard side is not fun at all.

                        Good luck!
                        Mark
                        USCG OUPV
                        1990 4588
                        Carlsbad, CA

                        Comment

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