Trim removal salon corners-gctid807726

[Cool_Beans]

I hope this an easy answer, but I'm at my wits end trying to remove the price of teak that caps the end of the salon/cockpit wing so I can repair a leak so many of us are familiar with :angry:

In the picture, it is the thick teak trim that would be under the grab handle. It's stuck like a mutha but I can't find any more screws....

[knuckelbuster1]

No pics....

[Cool_Beans]

Crap...I tried the "take a picture and post it feature" and it didn't work...

This is a pic on my phone, not necessarily of the trim but it can be seen on the right.

Edit: every picture is failing to load from my phone...

[boatworkfl]

I use "tiny pic" for loading pictures on BOC, works every time.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwjt_cLyj97TAhXr8YMKHRFwBDAQFggiMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Ftinypic.com%2F&usg=AFQjCNFZ7erxivzZ63SXU-PaRYTfZTmzyg

[Cool_Beans]

Hope this works. Image site is nice, thank, kind of spammy though. I never had issues with pictures until the forum was updated

[Cool_Beans]

Olley olley income free!

Anyone? I figured everyone with a 3870 would have an idea of what I'm talking about. . .I'm ready to force a hacksaw blade in there and start cutting along the seam inch:

[Nikko]

"Cool Beans" post=808042 wrote:
Olley olley income free!

Anyone? I figured everyone with a 3870 would have an idea of what I'm talking about. . .I'm ready to force a hacksaw blade in there and start cutting along the seam inch:

On of the caps on my 32 was stuck last year too - I almost used force, but further looking found a crew under a plug that would have passed any inspection for perfect gain matching and alignment (it truly was a work of art - I hated to pull it!). When I pulled that last one, the cap came off like it was supposed to...

[Guest]

Nikko is absolutely correct. Look very closely for wooden plugs which will probably have to be drilled out to access the screw underneath. Careful not to drill too deeply and mess up the screw head.

[boatworkfl]

"Cool Beans" post=808042 wrote:
Olley olley income free!

Anyone? I figured everyone with a 3870 would have an idea of what I'm talking about. . .I'm ready to force a hacksaw blade in there and start cutting along the seam inch:

That piece of plywood behind the black plastic window may well be one piece.

I had to carved mine out piece by piece,

Once out seal the window with 4200, also at the top that may be the nuts that hole the arch on, a lot of water comes down the section, especially if there is a hole for cables-seal it up especially the top.

I left a hollow between the 2 halves as the wood covers well.

Advantage lumber-several locations across the US. Prices are more than fair.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwi5_ajW4uPTAhWr7oMKHfotBUkQFggvMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.advantagelumber.com%2F&usg=AFQjCNFC9g3X1t09z3ie_BbcKIyJvdYlMw

Remember-Teak plywood is not waterproof or waterproof glue, so I was informed. I have used water proof glue plywood with teak veneer applied with contact cement, they also make it with self adhesive.

I bought some 2" 1 1/2" finished Cumuru wood from Advantage lumber online, you can also use IPE, I think IPE holds up a little better, but either will work and they have a nice figure if you ask for it.

Use 4200 to seal the wood in and a few screws, I use the star drive screws from Advantage lumber and the wood plug for it as well as the pilot hole drill for the plugs/screw.

That photo is the worst water damage area I have ever seen.

[Nikko]

"fishin1" post=808199 wrote:
Nikko is absolutely correct. Look very closely for wooden plugs which will probably have to be drilled out to access the screw underneath. Careful not to drill too deeply and mess up the screw head.

A better way to remove plugs

http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/forum/technical-discussion/74728-those-pesky-wood-plugs#746393

[Pcpete]

I used ipe for my replacement ladder treads and the new steps going to the galley from the salon. It works a little tougher than teak and must be pre drilled for any kind of screw or bolt. I tried just running a screw in an had the piece crack.

[Cool_Beans]

Great ideas and tips, thank everyone! Weather looks to be clearing up on Sunday so I'll get back out there with my palm sander and see if there are any screw bungs hiding under the varnish. Also will be pulling the cabin top gutter, since I suspect a leak originates from outside along the front gutter and down the front window corners inch:

Leaks, leaks, leaks, leaks. . .I was warned that this was the flip side of buying a boat that has been under cover for a decade :silly:

[boatworkfl]

"Cool Beans" post=808648 wrote:
Great ideas and tips, thank everyone! Weather looks to be clearing up on Sunday so I'll get back out there with my palm sander and see if there are any screw bungs hiding under the varnish. Also will be pulling the cabin top gutter, since I suspect a leak originates from outside along the front gutter and down the front window corners inch:

Leaks, leaks, leaks, leaks. . .I was warned that this was the flip side of buying a boat that has been under cover for a decade :silly:

That area in the corner was never sealed properly, why they put a window there is a wonder to me.

Same with not properly sealing the hole for the radar cable.

[Cool_Beans]

I checked, and the only cables/wiring so far seem to run forward to the helm. I need to pull the seat out to get a better look. . .project 248 of 957 inch:

Oh yeah, that plastic window needs to be replaced as well. the bottom edge of both is cracked and not sealed :S

I'll report back this weekend after my investigation!