4788 upper helm steering seal leak

[Guest]

Has anyone replaced the seal kit on the upper helm. The unit is a hynautic H-50

Not much information on YouTube.

Thanks Dave

[floatyerboat]

Lots of info on here though. Do a search and will give a step by step rebuild with diagrams. I might be able to pull up a old post for you.

[smitty477]

Just google "4788 steering gear leak BOC smitty477" - you will get a few threads like this one....

http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/forum/motoryachts/75472-38xx-upper-helm-hynautic-steering-fluid-leak

Here is a direct link to the rebuild and within that link another link to the bleeding instructions....

http://www.local1259iaff.org/hydraulichelmrebuild.html

[Guest]

Thanks
..........

[Mikalkc]

I rebuilt my upper helm on my 4588 same thing H50 got parts from Amazon about $35 for "O" rings. It came with instructions, still kind of a messy proposition but not complicated. If the helm pump has other issues Teleflex is the parent company of Hynautic.

[Guest]

Rebuilt upper and lower on my 4588. Initial noted red fluid stain all over my new pilot house carpeting! Fortunately it was a special "pet friendly" product and the stains came up with no problem. I figured if the lower is crapped out, might as well do both.

Used the kits from Amazon as referred to in previous post. Had a local general tech do the job. I have now rebuilt the piston/actuator and the helm seals. No issues as of yet.

[egbauman]

Re-upping this thread. Got the dreaded hub seal leak on my upper helm earlier today. Red oil all over the upper deck but fortunately it cleans up easily. I've seen all the threads about this and even found a very helpful Youtube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHzIMW79MZY) but will likely get someone to actually rebuild the hub for me. But I'm puzzled on how to get the wheel off the hub. Do I need to remove the center cap or is it that tiny set screw on the side of the hub that's holding it on?

Thanks in advance.

Evan

[Pcpete]

Back the setscrew out a bit then remove the black center plug. There’s a nut, probably a 3/4” socket will fit, back it almost all of the way off, but leave it on the shaft. Now comes the fun part. Take something about two feet long that you can jamb under the wheel and pull some fairly serious up pressure, then smack the nut with, preferably, a dead blow hammer. The wheel should pop free and the nut will keep it from going flying. Use flange wrenches to break the hydraulic fittings loose (you can get a set at harbor freight) then you have four quarter-twenty bolts that hold the hub in place. There could be some Puget Sound Locktite in the threads so some penetrant is in order, then a deep well 7/16 socket and, if it’s not a hex head bolt, maybe someone to hold the top side from turning.
Replacing the seals is relatively easy. Clean is the name of the game here and I have an old cookie sheet that I put some blue towels in. There’s a fair amount of fluid in the body and you really want to contain it. The sides also keep the marbles from getting away.
Btw, My youngest sons first job after getting his masters in Urban Planning was League City. He was there for a couple of years then he got an offer from up here.

[MacPhid]

Be sure to inspect the shaft where the seal rides for wear. Not unusual to have a groove there that can prevent the new seal from sealing properly.

James

[egbauman]

Thanks for all the terrific help. The set screw was pretty much frozen in place. No amount of Liquid Wrench could get it unfrozen. Wound up drilling out the set screw. Then everything else was easy. The wheel popped off the hub and we removed the hub from the dash in a matter of minutes. It's on its way to Seatech Marine in San Diego to get rebuilt.

[Destiny_4588]

Sea Tech did both of ours in 2019, did nice job...your in good hands!