Best sealer to use for window frames and fiberglass joints-gctid805552

[vinomaker]

I have water leaking at my starboard and port windshield locations. Also water is getting in to the front berth I think from the gunwale. I also have old seal material in various locations between joints in the fiberglass that I want to remove and refresh with new material before I have the boat detail waxed.

I will need clear and white and I am asking what do others suggest as the best seal material to use for sealing out water at these locations?

Thanks for your suggestions,

Jerome

[ozbucko]

Had some great results with a product called Fixtech 15 and others.

https://www.fixtechmarine.com

Used it it many applications, makes everything else I have used look average.

[builderdude]

I choose marine grade urethane, something like 3M 4200 UV. It can be a bit messy so have your roll of paper towels and acetone at the ready :silly:

[Guest]

pull the window frames and re-bed them with butyl tape.

for the other stuff, I've become quite fond of Loctite PL Marine sealant/adhesive. It's a polyether compound with similar properties (different chemistry tho) to 3M 4200, but I find it's much easier to work with and cleanup afterwards. (not to mention, it's cheaper and Home Depot/Lowes/Menards typically has it in stock).

[RDOIII]

Unless the caulking is clearly failed, try "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" - on my 38 solved the leaking windows five years ago

West Marine and others carry it

Just be sure to prevent from running on other surfaces as it will be visible and a bear to remove

Taping the areas to contain to seams/joints works well

A thirty minute fix compared to a major job.

RDO

[Simonsen]

"Woodbutcher" post=805642 wrote:
pull the window frames and re-bed them with butyl tape.

for the other stuff, I've become quite fond of Loctite PL Marine sealant/adhesive. It's a polyether compound with similar properties (different chemistry tho) to 3M 4200, but I find it's much easier to work with and cleanup afterwards. (not to mention, it's cheaper and Home Depot/Lowes/Menards typically has it in stock).

I would NOT suggest pulling the window frames! Jerome I don't know if you remember but I've had all my windshields out and used black Tiger Seal to re-bed the windows in the frames. This solved a majority of my leaks but I still had leaks after all that work! I found that the frame under the front windshield between the frame and the body of the boat was leaking. So, removing the frames would be 100% repair but man what a job that'd be! I ran a bead of clear sealant between the frame and body of the boat and she's been dry as a bone since! One other thing you might check is the frame stud bolts. They are 10mm nylocks but, they've likely loosened up over the years. Don't crank them down though because you risk snapping them and that'd be really bad. Secure them all the way around the base then do the sealant on the outside and retest.

Good luck,

Derek

[boatworkfl]

If you have painted frames do not get acetone on them!

[GearGuts]

Generaly speaking most clear sealants I have used skin over too fast to be worked smooth after application, Keep that in mind. I've used Sudbury clear and Goop clear marine and both seemed to be of similar composition and they did adhere well but are not good at staying clear. For the white sealant I like to use 3m 4200uv, i have switched to this from Sikaflex products about five years ago and success has been great. As mentioned already if the leak in your windows is between the frame and gelcoat then you would have a big job on your hands, if you choose to tighten the bolts and seal the outside I would recommend using masking tape, good thick stuff, to tape off all your seams with nice straight lines and a uniform thickness. Apply your sealant, not too much, and then use the tip of a small spoon as a trowel and smooth the product right down to the edges of the tape letting the excess roll off onto the masking tape. Remove the tape carefully and immediately after smoothing or you wont get nice sharp edges. This works great with a little practice and looks pro. One quick tip is to select a spoon that has a nice radius that won't sweep to much sealant away from the joint area. Good luck !