Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Globe 845 run-dry impeller for Hino EH-700(39)s raw water pumps?....BAD BAD BAD-gctid805187

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Globe 845 run-dry impeller for Hino EH-700(39)s raw water pumps?....BAD BAD BAD-gctid805187

    These impellers are listed as replacements for the Hino 16131-1350 neoprene raw-water intake impellers...has anyone tried these? Description sure sounds good...any experiences out there?

    http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...4249&id=141016

    Cheers,

    Dave

    #2
    "These impellers are listed as replacements for the Hino 16131-1350 neoprene raw-water intake impellers...has anyone tried these? Description sure sounds good...any experiences out there?"

    Yes .....

    - catastrophic failure's of both main impellers within 40 hours of new install.

    - failure was a 'stripped' inner star drive in both instances leaving zero pumping capability within seconds

    - traced the problem down to the limited engagement of star drive and the poor fit (length of insert is less than 60% of impeller lenght)

    - contacted Globe to show the problem and they requested the impeller back

    - sent one and requested they send notice to all users with safety issues due to failure

    - they offered me a larger shopping 'credit' but wanted my other impeller back and to sign a ''no talk' agreement

    Long story short did not send the second impeller back, signed nothing, got nothing , and I cautions people of the early failure rate of these impellers.

    This was maybe 12-15 years back.

    Hope this helps
    Northport NY

    Comment


      #3
      Everything I have read says to stay away from Globe products.
      P/C Pete
      Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
      1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
      Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
      MMSI 367770440

      Comment


        #4
        Wow! THAT was not what I expected. Thanks Smitty! Crossing this off the list...

        What's the most reliable impeller for the EH-700's? The Hino brand or the Jabsco brand? (Not too impressed with the Jabsco heads...curious if their impellers are better.)

        Dave

        Comment


          #5
          https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b...D550/ry%3D400/

          https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b...D550/ry%3D400/

          Still have the port one all these years later ....failed at 36 hours but still looks good from the outside.

          The Hino one (Kashiyama) is very robust bit very expensive.

          We ended up using all brands with good results - Jabsco was one of them and we replace every two seasons and would pull for winterizing each year.

          If the other brands are important I can post back later when Karen is home when she can look up the names - I believe she still has the database on the older parts lists.
          Northport NY

          Comment


            #6
            Also had issue with Globe on EH700

            We use Jabsco and they hold up well and are easy to get.
            Mark
            USCG OUPV
            1990 4588
            Carlsbad, CA

            Comment


              #7
              Awful

              Only time I had an overheat issue

              Blades take set and don't flex - thus don't pump

              Jabsco impeller since then and all is fine

              Also Just re read the caption - yes they "run dry" because they will soon "run- dry" - irony is fun.
              Ron O'Blenis
              B 38 175 Hinos 1989
              Completed Great Loop
              https://ronandfaye.blogspot.com/

              Comment


                #8
                "RDOIII" post=805284 wrote:
                ...yes they "run dry" because they will soon "run- dry" - irony is fun.
                Did I mention I really like this forum? :P

                Dave

                Comment


                  #9
                  Good info guys! Thank you!
                  Jim Gandee
                  1989 3888
                  Hino 175's
                  Fire Escape
                  [email protected]
                  Alamitos Bay, SoCal

                  Comment


                    #10
                    So, I recall the prior owner saying the impellers are a pain to replace...motor mount in the way, so I'm thinking you have to take a belt loose and probably a bolt out of the pump, then rotate the pump over so you can get the faceplate off...something along those lines. (I know where the raw water pumps are, front left side of engines looking from the rear forward...not sure how you get to all that on the port engine, I'm not as flexible as I used to be! Probably lie down between the engines and reach to the other side of the port engine? And "yes", I'm still learning. )

                    Does anyone have a pic handy for the EH700's? I'm wondering if I can at least get the faceplate off easily to inspect it. (If it's the same amount of work to inspect them, I might as well just replace them while I'm in there.)

                    Also wondering this: If pieces have broken off, where would they lodge? IIRC, the first thing in line after the raw water pumps are the transmission coolers, so perhaps a reasonable check would be to pull the hoses on the intake side of the transmission coolers and see if there are any rubber chunks lodged there? If so, they obviously came from the impellers and the impellers probably need replacing. (I'm assuming engine seacocks would need to be closed, although the transmission cooler might be positioned high enough to not need them closed...just don't want to forget I closed them and proceed to burn up the impellers that might or might not need to be replaced/have been just replaced!)

                    One more thought...would it be feasible to maybe replace the raw water pump faceplates with a piece of plexiglass so you can actually *see* the impellers, or is that too much risk of it cracking from vibration or melting from heat? OR...maybe better...run clear hoses from the raw water pumps to the transmission coolers so you can *see* any rubber chunks accumulating at the input side of the transmission coolers? Curious about any thoughts you folks might have...

                    Cheers!

                    Dave

                    Comment


                      #11
                      "...not sure how you get to all that on the port engine"

                      Perhaps since this is your first time doing this pump consider 'cheating'.

                      Pull the pump: out and do it on a bench or the dock sitting at a table.

                      - disconnect two hoses to the pump

                      - Loosen the belt tightening bolt by a fixed number of full turns (say 15 full)

                      - Loosen / remove the 4 base plate bolts holding the pump to the base

                      The pump will now come out in your hands to be worked on the bench. Replacement is the opposite of removal just set the 4 base bolts to a bit less than 'snug' until the belt tightening bolt can be fully tightened back to its original tension.

                      Hope this helps
                      Northport NY

                      Comment


                        #12
                        "Also wondering this: If pieces have broken off, where would they lodge?"

                        They will most likely lodge in the manicooler bundles as those tubes are smaller than the typical trans cooler tubes.

                        This is what they will look like.....

                        https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b...D550/ry%3D400/
                        Northport NY

                        Comment


                          #13
                          "smitty477" post=805395 wrote:
                          "Also wondering this: If pieces have broken off, where would they lodge?"

                          They will most likely lodge in the manicooler bundles as those tubes are smaller than the typical trans cooler tubes.

                          This is what they will look like.....

                          https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b...D550/ry%3D400/
                          Ah, OK...how do you get to where you took that picture? Pull the plate off the aft side of the manicoolers? (Does it have to be partially drained first?)

                          Thanks!

                          Dave

                          Comment


                            #14
                            "Pull the plate off the aft side of the manicoolers?"

                            That disassembly is not typically done unless you have some very real overheat issues - the procedure it quite long and it entails following a detailed list so as not to have problems in the future.

                            I wanted to point out that the impeller pieces typically do not get held up in the trans cooler tubes or the turbo intercooler tubes (for turbo engines) but typically reach the manicooler tubes and lodge there. I have it written up somewhere around here if no one posts back that process but would suggest you do not need to do this unless/until you have a known overheat process.

                            FWIW - I will be out of the country in a few days for some time and will not be available for posts.
                            Northport NY

                            Comment


                              #15
                              if you feel you must do something to try and dislodge things that might be in the manicooler bundle but you have no overheat conditions I suggest this alternative.

                              - Remove the raw water hoses from both ends of the manicooler bundle

                              - On the normal input side temporarily hook up a large shop wetvac

                              - On the outputs side (near the exhaust) temporarily hook up a large volume garden hose outlet with a 1/4 turn quick on and off (full volume)

                              - Turn the vac 'On"

                              - Repeatedly open and close the large volume hose line for 3-4 seconds pulsing volumes of water backwards thru the bundle.

                              After a few shots open up the vac and see if you have any debris in the shop vac from the bundle.

                              Again - with no overheat condition this is really not needed. (But I know how OCD can be because I suffer from it myself)
                              Northport NY

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X