Ignition Buzzer/Light troubleshooting-gctid803307

[Alan_Teed]

I seek some help from the electrically talented on the board. After 4 years I am getting around to fixing the smaller niggling issues on my 4788 and one is that one set (Port Engine) of the ignition buzzer/lights has never worked. Light does not come on and buzzer does not work at either helm.

This week I replaced all 4 (port and Stbd) buzzer/light units with new Cole Hersee OEM parts. None of the lights were working on the old ones and I had hoped that this replacement would also solve the above problem, but it did not.

So the question is where do I look to find out why the sensors on one engine do not work?

The affected engine starts and operates/ charges normally and oil pressure is fine ~ the problem is with the buzzer/light and not the engine.

Thanks for your thoughts and guidance

Alan

[Guest]

On my mercruiser the coolant sensor switch screws into the thermostat housing. The oil pressure switch is near the oil pan on the rear port side of the engine. These were both connected to the alarm using the same brown wire. When your oil pressure drops below the switches threshold or the temp gets too hot the switch turns on the alarm.

Not sure where the switches are on your engine but a wiring diagram for your boat would get you on the right path so you don't start pulling on the wires for the gauges. I picked up an aftermarket alarm from Sierra that came with both switches,thanks to builderdude for that tip!

[Alan_Teed]

Thanks for your input. I am expecting to hear that the solution is likely to check/replace the sensor, but do not know where that is on the hIno so awaiting Hino specific help.

Thanks again.

[MacPhid]

I've run into this on my 175 Hino's, the low oil pressure switch near the oil filter is located such that when I'm between the engines the spade connector can be easily bumped off the terminal. Worth looking at. After that it could be a sender, but not likely the oil sender as it has to open the switch with pressure to silence the alarm, ie it's normally closed switch. The high temperature switch is the opposite, normally open and closes the circuit to ground on high temperature. You could try to jumper from the wire on either sender to ground with the ignition switch on and see if the buzzer sounds.

James

[Norton_Rider]

Chances are it's the oil pressure switch. I had the same problem last year and the switch did the trick.

[NoSpeed]

Alan, I just replaced two of my Dual Alarms at the Bridge Helm last week! Just to make sure we are talking about the same part, is this it: https://www.waytekwire.com/images/items/47631_a.gif ? In my case, the buzzer portion of the alarms were operable, but the lights were not. Playing around with it, I discovered the light bulbs were not inoperative. You can just pull off the lens cover and push the bulb in while turning the key to verify they are good. The older version of this switch did not have LED lights. The new version does and if it ever burns out, you have to replace the entire switch. From what I can gather from your OP, it sounds like the buzzers of the STBD engine at both helms were operational, but none of the four lights worked. Correct? After replacing all four alarms, you now have no buzzers or lights for either engine at both helms when you turn the key to the RUN position. Do I have that right? The buzzers/lights always work together. So, if you have one buzzer on, you should have the light on as well . Before jumping to the conclusion your sensors are bad, I would double check your alarm wiring. Turning the key to RUN will illuminate the light and buzzer of each alarm, provided the Ignition C/Bs are ON. You do not have to turn the key to the START position to get the alarms to activate. Were you careful about which wire went to which screw on the alarms? The wires are color coded. There is a good chance Bayliner used the same color coded wires over the different model years. I will be at my boat tomorrow and can tell you the color scheme of the my Bridge alarms, if you need it. Regarding the sensors on your Hinos, I am afraid I cannot help you there. My engines are made by Cummins.

[Alan_Teed]

"MacPhid" post=803315 wrote:
I've run into this on my 175 Hino's, the low oil pressure switch near the oil filter is located such that when I'm between the engines the spade connector can be easily bumped off the terminal. Worth looking at. After that it could be a sender, but not likely the oil sender as it has to open the switch with pressure to silence the alarm, ie it's normally closed switch. The high temperature switch is the opposite, normally open and closes the circuit to ground on high temperature. You could try to jumper from the wire on either sender to ground with the ignition switch on and see if the buzzer sounds.

James

Thanks for the tip, I will locate and check the switch.

[Alan_Teed]

"NoSpeed" post=803335 wrote:
Alan, I just replaced two of my Dual Alarms at the Bridge Helm last week! Just to make sure we are talking about the same part, is this it: https://www.waytekwire.com/images/items/47631_a.gif ? In my case, the buzzer portion of the alarms were operable, but the lights were not. Playing around with it, I discovered the light bulbs were not inoperative. You can just pull off the lens cover and push the bulb in while turning the key to verify they are good. The older version of this switch did not have LED lights. The new version does and if it ever burns out, you have to replace the entire switch. From what I can gather from your OP, it sounds like the buzzers of the STBD engine at both helms were operational, but none of the four lights worked. Correct? After replacing all four alarms, you now have no buzzers or lights for either engine at both helms when you turn the key to the RUN position. Do I have that right? The buzzers/lights always work together. So, if you have one buzzer on, you should have the light on as well . Before jumping to the conclusion your sensors are bad, I would double check your alarm wiring. Turning the key to RUN will illuminate the light and buzzer of each alarm, provided the Ignition C/Bs are ON. You do not have to turn the key to the START position to get the alarms to activate. Were you careful about which wire went to which screw on the alarms? The wires are color coded. There is a good chance Bayliner used the same color coded wires over the different model years. I will be at my boat tomorrow and can tell you the color scheme of the my Bridge alarms, if you need it. Regarding the sensors on your Hinos, I am afraid I cannot help you there. My engines are made by Cummins.

Thanks for your help. Sorry that my description was unclear. I replaced the Dual Alarms for a couple of reasons, none of the lights came on and as noted above the buzzers on one engine didn't come on either. After replacing the Stbd Dual Alarms they operate perfectly, ie the light and buzzer activate with ignition switched on, and both extinguish a second or two after start as oil pressure comes up. The port Dual Alarms are still silent/dark. Consensus here seems to indicate the oil pressure switch so that will be my first check. Dont worry about checking the wires, but thanks for the offer, I am certain that I replaced the wires correctly.

[capnken]

On Hinos, there is a large electrical connector that is taped up that you will see just above the transmission. Take apart the connector and clean all the contacts then re- test... you may just have a bad connection here. Also, there is a connection on the breaker button for the engine, a small reset button just behind and above the transmission cooler... check connections here too. Good luck.

Ken

[Guest]

Different boat... but same mfg.... FWIW I had the a similar problem when I purchased my 3888... no buzzers on port... I eventually found in the lower helm harness where a double spade adapter at the lower helm ignition switch was missing a connector... digging thru the bayliner wiring harness (IMHO rats nest) I found a loose female spade.... after some continuity checks with my multi meter found it to be the culprit... probably knocked off during some other project...

[weiss]

My 310's have a separate oil px switch and oil px sender right at the oil filter flange.... and the starboard one is failed. MUST loose weight to crawl into that space! :unsure:

[Pacrimrat]

Alan,

Instead of shot-gunning and replacing components I suggest you get a volt/ohm meter and start checking at the helm for current. If no current move down stream to the next unit in the system.

It may be an open or shorted lead and not a component. There should be a wire diagram in your manual that will show how the system is connected.

Chris

[MacPhid]

Alan,

If your 310 hp Hinos are wired like the 175 hp's, any easy test to make sure the circuit is working would be to turn the ignition on, but engines not running. Then jumper the terminal at the low oil pressure switch and then the high temperature switch to ground. If the buzzer sounds, the circuit is complete and one of the switches are likely bad.

James

[Destiny_4588]

This is a great tool for trouble shooting for me on our boat. PowerProbe. https://www.powerprobe.com/power-probe-iii/

Not only can you test a circuit for continuity but you can put power to it. Very easy to use and has long leads and extensions which for this task would be very helpful as you have wiring/devise at helm and down at the engine.

Just sharing half the battle is the right tool for the job vs random part replacement.