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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    I replaced my old Norcold with the new DE-006 and it fits perfectly. Its quiet and stays below 40 and also the freezer stays below zero.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    I just had my 20 year old Norclod replaced. There is a direct replacement ...Norcold DE0061...(?) The guys at my marina (Pacific Boat Services) did the complete R & R job in a couple hours. No modifications. And hauled off the old one too. I know the issues and comments about Norcold (aka "Never-cold") but it was overly simple and very cost effective to stay with Norcold. 30 days now and all is COLD!!

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  • tweekes
    replied
    I did a tundra in mine. in order for it to fit flush, I had to fur out the volt meter, tank guage etc. on the back side of the lower helm because it goes all the way back. Also you have to cut a vent into the little storage bin above the midship cabin berth so the heat exchanger has room. It did slide right in, flush in the front. Be sure to put som pretty thick insulation on the anchor switch contacts. Been happy with the Tundra.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    That's a great help,I'm replacing mine with a Norcold DE-0061, supposed to be the replacement for the old original.

    Thanks

    Gord

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    I replaced mine about three years ago, below is a cut & past from an old post that i msg to another BOC member ...

    1. 2+ hours to remove old fridge, due to the fact that my boat came with air conditioning, the return duct is under the ac panel. I removed both the ac & dc panels (pulled back); there is a piece of plywood that is secured to the top of the old fridge to shield it from the electrical. It took some time to find & remove the screws that hold this, you also have to unscrew the wiring harness clamps that hold the ac & dc power (fridge) & once these were removed along with the front trim screws the fridge slid out.

    2. To get the fridge out of the boat you need to remove you salon door stopper, this way the door slides back 2" more, giving you 25" @ the top half of the doorway.

    3. The new fridge was easier to handle in bringing it through the doorway.

    4. I needed to cut ›" away from the top cut out, just under & even with the vinyl. Also, instead of relocating my windlass switch, I adjusted it out, (the shaft) and you need too shield from touching the back of the new fridge.

    5. I also made some other minor adjustment to gauges/instruments that are located on my lower helm, mostly making sure the wires were shielded from touching the new fridge.

    6. The new fridge, Nova-cool 9000, is a tight fit, it will stick out 2", and it has a trim/flange that can be adjusted, that will give you 1". It wont slid back any more in my case because of I did not relocate my windlass switch, water meter, inverter control panel, etc. these stick out the back 2-3". I have not adjusted the flange trim yet on the new fridge, so currently I have a 2" filler trim between the cabinet & trim flange. I'm going to adjust this so all I need is a 1" filler trim.

    7. If you go with the smaller fridge, it will slide back without any conflicts, all you need to do is cut the top opening biggerhowever that means less cold beer & wine.

    Hope this has answered your question

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    seems like mine gets louder in the summer too. No rattlin' yet, but harder to sleep.

    I wonder if there is something that should be cleaned or... ??? I do knot that replacements are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest started a topic Fridge replacement-gctid396922

    Fridge replacement-gctid396922

    Has there been any posts on the difficultly in replacing the fridge in a 38** ?

    Thanks

    Gord
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