BOCers, I originally posted this in the technical forum but received no response so moving to MY. I'm searching for guidance regarding a mechanical survey on the 175 NA Hinos on a 3888. Besides a compression check on each cylinder what else would an experienced Hino technician suggest be inspected prior to purchase? Are the cyls/pistons/valves visable through a borescope? Does the removal of the injectors allow direct access to the cyls with the scope? What is the preferred compression test method, differential/leak down or spin the engine and observe max psi? What are the normal limits of compression? What parts should be automatically replaced when conducting a compression test? Seals,gaskets? I'm assuming the comp test should be performed with a hot engine. All of these same questions apply to the Westerbeke Genny as well. Can a compression test be accomplished with the boat on the hard or must the boat be in the water so the water pumps don't spin dry when performing the test? Thanks in advance for your time and knowledge. Jim
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Hello Jim --- too much info to cover in an e-mail and we are headed out on the boat in a couple of hours but here is a copy of the list Ron uses for the Hino's when he checks them out. How about calling Earl as well?
Hope this helps
When we used the lists we would leave a bunch of room around these items so Ron could put notes there as needed. Here is what we would use as a mental reminder on the Hino's:
Fill in engine serail number, in each section below ask what is new/serviced
Harmonic balancer
- integrity
- leaks
Raw water pump
- leaks
- hoses
water separators
- on engine
- on Racors if equipped
Oil cap and cover
- inspection inside w/mirror
- wipe underside of valve cover w/finger
Coolant cap & tank
- leaks
- overflow bottle sediment
- wipe X-changer bundle through cap, check for mud
Oil pan
- corrosion
- where the oil change tube goes
Manicooler
- original
- leaks
- condition of paint where the runners meet the head
Glow plug circuit
- Full cycle time
- no signs of corrosion
Wiring
- integrity
- all gages/alarms work
Bolts fasteners
- note which have been removed
- injectors
- heads
- manicooler
- other
Injection pump
- Any crimp caps compromised
- leaks
- corrosion
Intercoolers
- inspection port residue
- leaks
- hoses
- Air side hoses and leaks
Turbo
- inspection of radial play
- oil leak behind compressor wheel
- Boost if available
- How much paint is on at manicooler/turbo interface
- leak near coolant return line (hard line top)
- Leak near oil return (bottom)
Exhaust elbow
- Cast Iron/ other
- If cast, one piece or two (one is better and newer version)
- check at packing hose tube outlet
- Check drain fitting
Transmission
- write down number and ratio
- pull stick and wipe on pure white paper towel
- pull filter and look on inside for particles
- note age condition of coolers
- note if coolers are zinc equipped
Engine mounts
- condition of all 4 static
- angle of 4
- condition of motor mount brackets and affixing to stringers
- check mounts again under way (use caution)
shafts/packing
- type
- condition
- alignment under way (take a short motion pic if possible)
- is salt spray being ingested
- any signs of scoring on shafts
Try and take good digital pictures of any and all the items you are interested in because even if you are not sure of something you may be able to post them later in and someone will hopefully be able to help. We would also take pictures of the engine gages on cold engine, running engine, and warm engine at idle for future reference since it was faster and clearer then writing it down. On these engines a cold engine (say like 55degrees) will show a bunch of white smoke even with the glow plugs on start up unless they have pre-heaters installed and on. The white smoke should clear in 1 to 2 minutes even though it may seem like forever. After warm up they should show little or no smoke from there on out.
Hope this helps
Northport NY
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