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    filter wrench-gctid728626

    What filter wrenches do you guys use for all the engine filters? They are on SO tight. I need to tighten a fuel filter and don't want to damage the housing.

    Derek
    Family Boater
    1997 Bayliner 4788 w/330 Cummins - Phoenix
    (past) 1987 Bayliner 3218 w/135 Hino - True Story

    #2
    I use a strap wrench, but the filter really shouldn't be that tight.

    Comment


      #3
      I use a strap wrench - I need 2 different sizes for the oil & secondary fuel.

      Note that there are strap wrenches with belts - but also some that have like a bicycle chain as the strap, this bites into the metal can. You use one of these to remove a too tight old filter & then use a belt strap to install the new one without damage
      Bay Seeker
      1994 3288

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        #4
        I used a chain wrench this morning to get an old fuel filter off (was getting replaced) then this afternoon when installing my new fuel filter set up (double/double's) one of the filters is leaking at the top so I just wanted to snug it up without damaging the new filter but I can't budge it. So, I'm try again tomorrow (fresh strength) and have a spare filter if I can't reseat it..

        I've purchased a couple rubber strap wrenches

        Derek
        Family Boater
        1997 Bayliner 4788 w/330 Cummins - Phoenix
        (past) 1987 Bayliner 3218 w/135 Hino - True Story

        Comment


          #5
          That's the one I use. They clamp very well without any distortion of the housing.

          http://www.toolstop.co.uk/components...t/AK645.V2.jpg
          NILE
          1989 3288MY 305's US Marine
          Fort Lauderdale Florida

          Comment


            #6
            Hand tight should suffice, but sometimes the old o ring doesn't come off with the old filter making it impossible to seal.
            1989 26' then 1994 32' now 2001 39'

            Comment


              #7
              Hello Derek,

              Good " heads up "from Uncle Bob up re the old o ring.

              Also be sure to lube ALL surfaces before installing.

              Re filter wrenches I do not use them any more, I change all 4 out myself each 200 hrs or each season whichever comes first.

              Ansuring all surfaces ( both sides of rubber gasket are wiped down with clean diesel or clean oil I tighten by hand, also mark date and hours on filter for future reference.

              I have a primary filter system like this ( not sure of the model , need to ck ) for my fuel for each engine and change these out only every two seasons or so;

              http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp...510&id=1716450

              I keep these large jaw locking plyiers from Vicegrip on board for many uses;

              http://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-t...locking-pliers

              In the early years I would over tighten some of the oil filters or secondary fuel filters on the engins and sometimes they would seize upon removal. I found the original vise grips better than the oil filter wrenches I had, perhaps my filter wrenches were too cheap.

              The one problem with using the vicegrtips is the filters are are scrap after as I can easily deform the filter but better ( cleaner ) than the screwdriver through the filter approach.

              Hope this helps,

              Pete

              Comment


                #8
                These are filters that I bought from Seaboard Marine. They came on the filter head already so I ASSUMEd they were on correctly and snug...all my fittings are good and aren't leaking. Putting a shut off valve on the supply/return valves would have been a good thing to do long before I started working on the fuel system...the gravity drain is such a pain especially when you're super tired from working on the boat for two days straight and fuel is pouring all over the bilge....

                I ordered a new filter. When I get to the boat next I'll remove the one they put on and put a new one on. I usually put Sil-Glyde on the O ring's which helps in getting them back off.

                I moved my port on engine filter over to the other side of the engine so now both on engine filters are on the inside and easily accessible. If anyone is interested in a write up for doing this I'd be happy to provide that with parts needed, instructions and pictures. It mounts the on engine fuel filter next to the oil filter (aft of it) - much easier access.

                Derek
                Family Boater
                1997 Bayliner 4788 w/330 Cummins - Phoenix
                (past) 1987 Bayliner 3218 w/135 Hino - True Story

                Comment


                  #9
                  The oil filter on my 2052 4.3L is very difficult to access. I only hand tighten all of my filters. Using a wrench of any sort is asking for an impossible solution when you want to remove them. Even hand tightened, the only thing method that I've found to remove the oil filter is a metal strap filter removal tool with a short handle. I've glued a piece of 80 grit sandpaper to the inside of it to provide some grip on the filter casing. There is not enough room between the block and the filter to even get a rubber strap wrench in there. Even with this system, I only get about 1/4 turn on the filter before having to reset. Love the boat, hate the filter access!!

                  Getting to shop installed filters, I've worked on friends boats after a trip to a shop, and literally had to cut oil filters off. There is just no reason to put them on that tight.
                  Bob Hawes.
                  Kelowna, B.C.
                  1998 Trophy 2052 WA
                  4.3 Vortec, A1 G2

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Filters. Put a thin film of oil on the rubber o-ring prior to install. This helps. As far as tightening, do not over-tighten. Spin on, once the ring makes contact with the surface a quarter turn seats the filter very well.
                    Phil, Vicky, Ashleigh & Sydney
                    1998 3055 Ciera
                    (yes, a 1998)
                    Previous boat: 1993 3055
                    Dream boat: 70' Azimut or Astondoa 72
                    Sea Doo XP
                    Sea Doo GTI SE
                    Life is short. Boats are cool.
                    The family that plays together stays together.
                    Vice Commodore: Bellevue Yacht Club

                    Comment


                      #11
                      "Uncle Bob" post=728673 wrote:
                      Hand tight should suffice, but sometimes the old o ring doesn't come off with the old filter making it impossible to seal.
                      Happened to me a couple weeks ago. Fired the engines up after an oil change and after s few minutes the port side engine low oil pressure alarm goes off. Lots a oil in the bilge.

                      Turns out the old oil filter o-ring stayed on so with 2 o-rings it poured oil out. Hell of a mess in the bilge.

                      This same exact thing happened to me a year ago after the first oil change on the new engine on my 2252. Hopefully I won't forget it now, third times the charm.
                      Esteban
                      Panama City, Panama
                      Former Bayliners 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952
                      Currently looking for 32xx in South Florida

                      Comment


                        #12
                        "Simonsen" post=728626 wrote:
                        What filter wrenches do you guys use for all the engine filters? They are on SO tight. I need to tighten a fuel filter and don't want to damage the housing.

                        Derek
                        I use a few different ones: I have a few sizes of standard, metal strap wrenches. In most cases, this is all I need for oil and fuel filters. I also have a fabric strap wrench that has a 3/8 square drive for a socket wrench. Lastly, I have a Vice-Grip chain wrench for the really difficult jobs.
                        1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
                        2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
                        Anacortes, WA

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The best one that works every time for me is a heavy duty metal strap with a 3/8 square drive. All filters are deep in the bilge without proper space around, and it is very convenient when you can just slid the strap on the filter, and stick a long 3/8 drive extender to turn it from the top. Previously, I had a similar one, but not a heavy duty version, which did not work because the hole for the square drive became round soon.
                          Alex
                          1997 2859, 7.4 MPI, Bravo II
                          1993 2452, 5.7 Bravo II - SOLD

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I tend to use the same oil filters on the boat (Sierra) and use cap wrenches as they fit well on the filter and fit well in the available space.





                            88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                            98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                            07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                            Long Island Sound Region

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