Can anyone provide picks on how and where to install Tees for quick winterizing with anti freeze in a a 3288?
Thx:worth
Thx:worth
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Hello and welcome, what kind of engines?
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I am planing on doing the same thing. On my 32 w/305 gassers, the most logical place is between the raw water pick up seacocks and the strainers. I have about 12 - 16 inches of 1 1/4 water hose that could be cut into in that area. It's also the easiest place to access with out removing the panels in the stateroom.
The Tees can also be fitted with hoses that extend into the bilge so the engines could be used as emergency pumps if ever needed.
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Another option is to make new plastic caps for your strainers, and then add whatever fittings you like to those new caps. A garden hose quick-connect, or a plain 3/4 female, etc. This way you aren't altering your raw water system.
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I was going to say- someone is going to have to educate me on the value of putting these tees and antifreeze in - I just drain the system.
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The idea behind flushing with anti freeze is to replace any water that didn't drain from the system. Also most of the anti freeze has corrosion inhibitors in it that "supposedly" coats the inside of the system. Don't know how well it works but that's what I've been told.
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Guess it can't hurt, I just don't see the point in providing weak spots to leak for questionable benefit. However, it ain't my boat !
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When we had our boat in Lake Superior we always winterized the raw water side of the system by running 5-6 gallons of -50 or better antifreeze through each engine system. It's a fairly common practice in the upper Midwest. It went through many winters of -25F type temperatures with nary a problem. In fact I didn't have freeze issues until I moved it to the Puget Sound!
Additionally two weeks ago, after reading horror stories here, I replaced all manifolds and risers with new. When we got the old ones off a number of "reputable" marine mechanics looked at my old ones and wanted to know why I changed them! They were the originals 26 years old 1760 hrs. Of course this boat spent all it's life until 9/2009 in some very clean fresh water but I think the anti corrosive properties of the antifreeze helped as well.
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I have 305s V8s ....Thanks for that...I guess I should have been more specific...I was talking about Tees to the fresh water tanks and water heaters and air conditioner.....
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no tee's needed for the engine side of winterizing, just take off the sea strainer lids and run thru 3-4 gallons of pink or blue antifreeze. I have thought about routing the house water lines back from the water heater to the opening of the cave so I don't have to lay across the black water tank to by pass the WH when running pink thru the system. I never think of it until Fall.
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Oh ok thanks ! So, my water heater is a complete pita to reach and drain. My solution is 6 gallons of RV antifreeze to fill the hot water tank and water systems. I have never had a problem with freezing. Lazy, but effective. On the ac, I just open and drain the strainer. Also no problems so far.Aimhii wrote:
I have 305s V8s ....Thanks for that...I guess I should have been more specific...I was talking about Tees to the fresh water tanks and water heaters and air conditioner.....
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Many thanks....for the air conditioner...do you mean just disconnect the hose at bottom of hull and feeding it into the anti freeze jug and let ist suck from the jug till empty and then reconnect hose to hull?
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I assume you mean the reverse cycle ? If so, I don't use any anti freeze on this system, only close the thru hull and drain any water out. Others may chime in, but this is what I do.
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Actually No....I meant just disconnect the hose from the intake line in cave and dip it into the antifreeze till pink comes out of the discharge in bow....then reattach the hose to intake? Anyone do this?
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