Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Livingston Dinghy Problem-gctid383973

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Livingston Dinghy Problem-gctid383973

    I'm sure that I cannot be the first with this problem but I'm returning to the Seattle area next week and this is first on my to-do list. My 10' 1991 Livingston dinghy with a 9.8HP 4-stroke Nissan kicker are mounted on a SeaWise davit system. Things went fine the first year (2010) but last year about mid-season the side of the dinghy at the forward mount started to sag. Most of the weight is on the rear mount but it is well supported by the rear seat and transom. It appears that the aluminum rub rail was providing the stiffness at the front mount necessary to support the weigh and several of the connection rivets broke loose, the rail bent and the side sagged. I should be able to straighten the rail and reattach it to the boat but the problem will surly recur. Has anyone reinforced the side to support the weight and if so, how? As always, thanks for your help.

  • #2
    hughver wrote:
    I'm sure that I cannot be the first with this problem but I'm returning to the Seattle area next week and this is first on my to-do list. My 10' 1991 Livingston dinghy with a 9.8HP 4-stroke Nissan kicker are mounted on a SeaWise davit system. Things went fine the first year (2010) but last year about mid-season the side of the dinghy at the forward mount started to sag. Most of the weight is on the rear mount but it is well supported by the rear seat and transom. It appears that the aluminum rub rail was providing the stiffness at the front mount necessary to support the weigh and several of the connection rivets broke loose, the rail bent and the side sagged. I should be able to straighten the rail and reattach it to the boat but the problem will surly recur. Has anyone reinforced the side to support the weight and if so, how? As always, thanks for your help.
    Easiest solution is to clamp it straight and glass a 6 inch board to the inside. Some livingstons came this way from the factory for just such an issue. I did this to both an 8 and 9 footer.
    Started boating 1965
    Bayliners owned: 26 Victoria, 28 Bounty, 32, 38, and 47 since 1996

    Comment


    • #3
      mmichellich wrote:
      Easiest solution is to clamp it straight and glass a 6 inch board to the inside. Some livingstons came this way from the factory for just such an issue. I did this to both an 8 and 9 footer.
      Good idea, I heard somewhere that Livingston made a version that came with a reinforcement board to accommodate dinghy usage. Did you use plywood or solid board and what thickness, length & width? Thanks Micky

      Comment


      • #4
        hughver wrote:
        Good idea, I heard somewhere that Livingston made a version that came with a reinforcement board to accommodate dinghy usage. Did you use plywood or solid board and what thickness, length & width? Thanks Micky
        Gee it was 20-25 years ago. The wood is only there to make a relatively stiff rectuangular tube of fiberglass. As I recall the side of the boats are slightly curved. Just use lots of glass roving for strength. I painted the whole interior. If I recall correctly I was able to remount motor end Weaver davit to beefed up area. Heck, call or email Dave Livingston at Ranger Boats for suggestions.
        Started boating 1965
        Bayliners owned: 26 Victoria, 28 Bounty, 32, 38, and 47 since 1996

        Comment


        • #5
          Reinforced side was an option as well as floor boards and reinforced keel. I would think 1/4" or 3/8" should be fine If you have the ability to resaw or plane a board it would be cheaper than marine plywood

          Comment

          Working...
          X
          😀
          🥰
          🤢
          😎
          😡
          👍
          👎