32xx sliding door sticky-gctid373520

[Bodie]

Our sliding door has gotten quite hard to move and I would like to see if I can fix it. Does it have to be removed to do anything with it or is there an easy way to get it to move more smoothly? If it does need to be removed, how is that done?

[Guest]

You should take the door off------probably lots of stuff all caught up in the rollers. It will be easier to get everything cleaned up and lubed. (or replaced)

Remove the plate on the front of the track at the bottom. Make sure you adjust the rollers so that they are as far up into the door as possible You my be able to lift the door out of the track and pull it forward. Having someone to help with a putty knife under the rollers will make it easier. If you can't, then remove the screws in the bottom of the track.

You may find that another part of the problem is that the cabin wall may have bowed out and is binding on the door. It has on my boat.

That's a whole other can of worms to deal with. I read a thread somewhere on here, about how someone used a 6' metal "L" to hold the wall straight. You might find it in "Completed Projects".

Good luck.

[Guest]

R&Jonthebay wrote:
You may find that another part of the problem is that the cabin wall may have bowed out and is binding on the door. It has on my boat.

I was going to suggest the same thing. The funny thiing on my boat this only happens in the summer in high heat and humidity. In the winter the door slides fine.

[Nikko]

I got lucky, was able to break thr adjustingset screw loose and made the needed adjustment.Might be worth a try.

[smitty477]

"I was going to suggest the same thing. The funny thiing on my boat this only happens in the summer in high heat and humidity. In the winter the door slides fine."

This symptom leads one to believe that the wood part of the door is dragging on the track cover at the very bottom only during hot humid weather.

As Nikko clearly points out this problem will be solved by raising the roller wheels slightly with the hex adjustment screws if they are not frozen.

For other problems with the rollers here is a 'cut and paste' of the procedure we have posted in the past. We have also heard that these door rollers are now avaiable in stainless steel but have not tried those versions ourselves as well maintained good rollers have easily lasted the past 7 seasons of use. - hope this helps.

Bayliner door rollers

The sliding door hardware on the 38XX, 45XX, and 47XX all seem to be the same from our experience. The side doors on the 45 and 47 are a bit harder to get off and handle - but once removed the procedure is similar.

To remove the side doors put a towel or carpet scrap on the side deck outside and under where the door will 'fall'. 1st remove the aluminum piece which prevents the door from jumping the track. It is help on by about 5 short phillips screws facing the door on the base track - a stubby phillips will help here. Then remove the screws holding the door track down to the 'floor', you will need to move the door to the fully open and closed position to reach all of them. A very long phillips will help here.

ÔÇó The door is now free to rotate at the bottom and can be carefully leveraged out away from the boat and onto the side deck carpet scraps allowing the top to swing free of the door guides at the top. It is heavier then it looks.

ÔÇó Once removed any door roller is more easily accessed by removing the channel at the base of the door which holds all of the parts. On most boats this will be held on by 2 phillips screws which are screwed into the side of this channel from the inside at each end holding the channel to the door.

ÔÇó Once this assembly is in hand attention goes to each end where the door roller 'holders' are in place. Each one is attached by two screws about 3" apart at each end. Each screw goes in one side through the roller holder and back out the other into the 'plastic' track guide which keeps the door from coming out of the track when in use. Please note that one of these screws goes through the roller assy itself and forms the pivot point for the lower roller assembly adjustment.

ÔÇó Before you pry out the wheel assy please note (write down) the 'height' of the wheels center groove (forward and aft) above the door base so you have reference to set back the new wheel assy at reassembly time - this will save time later on. When both of these screws are removed you can 'pry' out the roller assembly by using a long screwdriver and carefully pivoting the assy out of the track - if there is a bunch of rust this may take a little playing.

Fixing rollersÔÇônow you have many options - here are 2 of them

ÔÇó #1 use the existing roller assy and replace the wheels only.

ÔÇó Drill and drive out the old wheel axles retaining them in the assy - do not damage the existing assy. Only drill out the peened flange on the axle so as to allow you to drive it out and remove the old wheel.

ÔÇó Use a new wheel primline P/N D-1502 (1-1/4" steel wheel) some of these have a short axle stub in each side and some do not. If it does - pry the wheel into the assy with both axle stubs in the holes, then using a hammer and peening base (we use a sledge on its side) peen over the axles applying your impact only to the axles themselves until they are peened into place. If there is no stub axle in the blister pack you can actually do this easier by utilizing a short length of brass rod from a marine supply store (or Home Depot) making your own short axles - they peen much easier.

ÔÇó #2 use a new roller assy primline #D-1603 (1-1/4" steel wheel assy) by drilling out the axle in this blister pack that would normally be the screw location for the assy pivot point - you will now throw away a part of the outer case here. This is quite easy and understandable when you have the old and new assemblies in hand . Two notes here - 1. You may have to 'squeeze' and /or 'hammer' the closed end of this assy very slightly to gain clearance in the Bayliner door track - this is not so hard to do. 2. For a while you could buy this assy without the outer frame and use it as is ÔÇô we have not been able to locate that package now for few years.

Reassembly

ÔÇó Pack the new rollers with a suitable water impervious lube so you make this repair last . We use a non-petroleum based water resistant lube called superlube for ths purpose.

ÔÇó Take time 'prying' and 'pivoting' the new wheel assy back in place with one or two screwdrivers until you can get the pivot screw in 1st. You may need to back out the SS hex screw in the end of the channel assy which adjusts the door roller height a bit to do this. After both screws are in but not fully tightened you can reasonably preset the height of the rollers by applying upward pressure to the roller groove while adjusting the height and then tightening the screws - use the previous dimensions written down both for and aft.

ÔÇó The rest of this assy is just reversing the disassembly procedures above.

ÔÇó Lifting a side door up and back into place is often hard but can be easier with a molding bar (small crowbar) , various cardboard pieces for protection and guidance, and wood spacer blocks being handy at the time. Once the door is up in the track and on the 'ledge' adjustments for final installation are easy.

It may be also be a good time to renew anything related to the doors such as weather seals, tracks, paint, or locks that need attention..

Many of the fasteners and washers may beg for replacement at this time if they survived the removal.

Experience has shown that extending the life of these rollers comes from using water resistant lubes as well as rinsing this area with fresh water after any salt water spray.

Hope this helps.

Smitty477

Ron & Karen Krupka