Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Salon Door Roller Replacement

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Salon Door Roller Replacement

    The salon door on my 1999, 3788 was hard to open and close, so I decided to replace the rollers. First of all I want to thank Ron Krupka (Smitty477) for the well written explanation on door roller replacement that he has posted a number of times. Second, I want to post a few observations and photos that may be helpful to others.

    Door and roller removal

    Pretty much like Ron described in his instructions.

    Roller assemblies and rollers

    The roller assemblies on my boat looked pretty much like the photos others have posted. See the photo of the Meridian rollers posted by Rob (Merlin4087) here: http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/in...r-parts#236908. Unlike the 1-1/4 inch diameter that Ron mentioned in his post, the rollers on my boat are 1-1/2 inch diameter.

    I originally wanted to replace the rollers and roller brackets as an assembly. From the Prime-Line website (http://prime-line-products.com) it appears that I may have been able to use their part number D-1960 or D-1959, drilled out the pivot rivet, and extracted the roller/roller bracket. Unfortunately, I could not find either part locally and did not want to wait. Instead, I decided to use the existing brackets and replace the rollers themselves. The rollers were easy to find. The local Ace Hardware store had them at $4.00 each. Note that the store did not have 1-1/2 inch rollers with the rest of the sliding door hardware. I found them in the fastener area, in one of the specialized parts bins.

    To remove the rollers from the brackets I carefully drilled the peened axle head. After looking at a number of alternatives for the axles, I settled on hollow aluminum spacers that I found at Ace Hardware. These spacers come in a variety of inside and outside diameters and lengths. The 1/4" OD X #6 screw (non threaded) ID X 1/2" long spacers worked perfect. The hollow cross section allowed me to peen over each end on the bracket. I made a tool to do this by grinding the end of a 1/4" bolt.

    In the photos you can see a roller bracket with a new roller installed and a new axle. You can also see the roller assembly installed. I included a photo of the cavity where the roller goes. The screw that you see is the roller height adjustor. It presses on the outside of the roller bracket. I also included a photo of the lower side of the door showing the hex-head of the adjustor screw. To adjust the height you insert a long Allen wrench through this hole and rotate the adjustor, as required.

    Installed Roller Assy




    Partially Installed Roller Assy




    New Roller Installed in Bracket Using a Hollow Spacer for Axle and Extra Hollow Spacer




    Roller Height Adjuster on Door




    Roller Height Adjuster on Door


    Last edited by Jim_Gandee; 11-07-2017, 10:21 AM.
    1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
    2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
    Anacortes, WA

    #2
    Hi Norton Rider and my friend Smitty,

    Thanks for all the good help on the sliding door, I appreciate all of it.

    How heavy is the door on the 3788? It looks like I will need some help turning it sideways to get the bottom roller assy off.

    There was a utube video that the fellow had to drive it off with a 2x4 and a hammer , is that the case for the 3788?

    Is it possible the axil does not have to be peaned , as the side walls would retain it?

    Bill

    Comment


      #3
      Bill

      The door will come off easily if you follow Smitty's instructions. It is quite heavy and it slips easily on the deck. I recommended putting down an old rug, furniture blanket, etc. first. I took the door off by myself but had help getting it on the dock and carrying it to my truck (I did all the work at home).

      If you manage to find the complete wheel carrier assemblies it will be a simple matter of removing and replacing them. If you replace the wheels on your carriers, I recommended peening the axle ends. The hollow aluminum spacers that I used for axles worked well. Because they were hollow i was able to peen each end with a punch. Ace Hardware had the spacers and wheels in their open stock bins.
      1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
      2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
      Anacortes, WA

      Comment


        #4
        Try this site for door rollers

        all about doors and windows

        http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...05814755,d.cWw
        Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

        Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
        Twin 350 GM power
        Located in Seward, AK
        Retired marine surveyor

        Comment


          #5
          You do not need to drill out the pin that holds the wheel in place. The pin will tap out one-way. Save the pin, replace the wheel (got mine at Ace Hardware) and tap pin back in. Very quick and a lot easier than it looks. You do not need to peen the end your tapping back in.

          Comment


            #6
            "pizze1" post=690487 wrote:
            You do not need to drill out the pin that holds the wheel in place. The pin will tap out one-way. Save the pin, replace the wheel (got mine at Ace Hardware) and tap pin back in. Very quick and a lot easier than it looks. You do not need to peen the end your tapping back in.
            There may be differences between your boat an a 3788. The roller axles on my boat were peened on both ends. I had to drill one end to get them out. Once this was done they were too short. This is why I replaced the axles. Also, the clearance between the axle ends and the door frame were too much. If I had left the axles unpeened on one end they would eventually work their way out. I suppose I could have bought longer axles but it was a lot easier to get the right length and peen both ends.
            1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
            2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
            Anacortes, WA

            Comment


              #7
              Yours may be different. I have seen to often in the past, recommending drilling out the pin. Totally unnecessary and a waste of time for the doors where I replaced wheels.

              Comment


                #8
                On my 2001 3788, we found 1.5" rollers, and matched them to replacement roller found at TrueValue Hardware store. We did have to push out the roll-pin from the mounting hole, and grind the ear off the corner of the roller frame. Otherwise a 30 minute job that rolls with one finger now. The admiral's help was appreciated, and she is verrry grateful. Total cost, $13.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I purchased my new sliding door rollers from this site, was an exact fit for my 3870.

                  http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...o2WKGAE-3rIyas
                  Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                  Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                  Twin 350 GM power
                  Located in Seward, AK
                  Retired marine surveyor

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Did mine worked great. Took about 45 minutes... thanks
                    New to me 1998 bayliner 3988 Cummins

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hey, Norton_Rider,
                      Thanks for the post - and all the replies! Most helpful...except I can't see any pics in your post. Is there someplace else I can look for your pictures??

                      Quig

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The photos were lost during the migration to a new forum host. I've duplicated my old post with photos below. Also, here's another thread on the topic: https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...in-gctid668834. Note that the process and parts are common to a number of Bayliner models.

                        ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                        The salon door on my 1999, 3788 was hard to open and close, so I decided to replace the rollers. First of all I want to thank Ron Krupka (Smitty477) for the well written explanation on door roller replacement that he has posted a number of times. Second, I want to post a few observations and photos that may be helpful to others.

                        Door and roller removal

                        Pretty much like Ron described in his instructions.

                        Roller assemblies and rollers

                        The roller assemblies on my boat looked pretty much like the photos others have posted. See the photo of the Meridian rollers posted by Rob (Merlin4087) here: http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/in...r-parts#236908. Unlike the 1-1/4 inch diameter that Ron mentioned in his post, the rollers on my boat are 1-1/2 inch diameter.

                        I originally wanted to replace the rollers and roller brackets as an assembly. From the Prime-Line website (http://prime-line-products.com) it appears that I may have been able to use their part number D-1960 or D-1959, drilled out the pivot rivet, and extracted the roller/roller bracket. Unfortunately, I could not find either part locally and did not want to wait. Instead, I decided to use the existing brackets and replace the rollers themselves. The rollers were easy to find. The local Ace Hardware store had them at $4.00 each. Note that the store did not have 1-1/2 inch rollers with the rest of the sliding door hardware. I found them in the fastener area, in one of the specialized parts bins.

                        To remove the rollers from the brackets I carefully drilled the peened axle head. After looking at a number of alternatives for the axles, I settled on hollow aluminum spacers that I found at Ace Hardware. These spacers come in a variety of inside and outside diameters and lengths. The 1/4" OD X #6 screw (non threaded) ID X 1/2" long spacers worked perfect. The hollow cross section allowed me to peen over each end on the bracket. I made a tool to do this by grinding the end of a 1/4" bolt.

                        In the photos you can see a roller bracket with a new roller installed and a new axle. You can also see the roller assembly installed. I included a photo of the cavity where the roller goes. The screw that you see is the roller height adjustor. It presses on the outside of the roller bracket. I also included a photo of the lower side of the door showing the hex-head of the adjustor screw. To adjust the height you insert a long Allen wrench through this hole and rotate the adjustor, as required.

                        Installed Roller Assy

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	Installed Roller Assembly -1.jpg Views:	1 Size:	106.7 KB ID:	461026




                        Partially Installed Roller Assy

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	Partially Installed Roller Assembly -1.jpg Views:	1 Size:	114.5 KB ID:	461027


                        New Roller Installed in Bracket Using a Hollow Spacer for Axle and Extra Hollow Spacer

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	New Roller Installed in Bracket and Hollow Axle -1.jpg Views:	1 Size:	181.4 KB ID:	461028




                        Roller Height Adjuster on Door

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	Roller Height Adjuster Inside -1.jpg Views:	1 Size:	85.1 KB ID:	461029


                        Roller Height Adjuster on Door


                        Click image for larger version  Name:	Roller Height Adjuster Outside  -1.jpg Views:	1 Size:	94.8 KB ID:	461030
                        1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
                        2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
                        Anacortes, WA

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thank you Norton for taking the time to rebuild this post. I need to do the same job on my 3788 and this is a big help.
                          Tony Bacon,
                          Washougal, WA
                          Caspian
                          1997 3788 Twin Cummins 250hp

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Incidentally, another issue with the doors is that over time the rollers make circular indentations on the track in the closed position. This causes the door to be a hard to open. I was able to improve it a bit by lightly filing the track to make a smooth transition from the indentation to the rest of the track. Eventually I may need to use a track repair section or replace the track completely.
                            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbjST43_hqw

                            Another alternative may be to cut an inch or so from the opening side of the track and slide the track over by a bit so the rollers rest in a section without indentations. On the 3788 the track appears to be longer than needed; so this may work.
                            1999 3788, Cummins 270 "Freedom"
                            2013 Boston Whaler 130 SS
                            Anacortes, WA

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X